jrdunn

@Johanna, Thank you. I am from the U.S. and don't really care for that stuff. I think I have thick enough skin but feel like most of it is a waste of time. I do feel everyone is entitled to their opinion but I don't come here for it unless it is about leatherwork. I really appreciate all the hard work all the moderators put in. Thank you! As always, JM2C. Jim

Ain't that the truth. I don't know about you guys but for me children, grandchildren, nephews and nieces account for most of my "pro bono work" and huge portion of my leather budget but I love 'em anyway.

Bob took good care of me as well!

I had mine shipped to the local feedstore (good people). The shipper didn't have to deal with county roads and I didn't have to take off work. It worked out great! Of course I made him a "thank you" gift. JM2C

Chuck, Consider this my "LIKE Button". Jim

Guilty as charged.

I feel your pain. I'm always working, trying to get my number of bottles of dye to a managable level. I have several that are very close to one another.

You might try Fiebing's deglazer to remove the Resolene. I'm pretty sure you'll have to come up with something that will remove it before dye will penetrate. I hesitate to mention it but . . . Have you considered antiquing it? I hate the stuff but it's an option. Almost anything will stain your thread too. JM2C

Congrats on the new sewing machine. We'll want to see pictures of your projects.

Welcome to Leatherworker.net and Oklahoma from a fellow Okie! Jim

I made one with a 5-6 oz. oil tan for the outside and a 6-7 oz. veg tan in the bottom. It is different but worked out very well. I used the pin shackles on the corners of that one instead of sewing or chicago screws. I have to admit that I saw the idea about the pin shackles from someone on here. I never considered getting a pattern. I just make them square and whatever size I want. JM2C

This has been my experience with them recently as well.

@Garyak, I'm interested. Any tips on what to get (or don't bother with) regarding the Brother? Jim

Would you mind if we see what you came up with?

If you are going to cut fringe from the legs like the ones in the photo, you need to allow extra for that. Some add a strip of precut fringe, some do both to have thicker and possibly two-toned fringe. JM2C

@Hairic I finally went back and looked at your link. The chaps there are only $70. If I donated my time and used bargain leather, I might get them made for that amount. If those are the ones he wants, I think he should order them. I'm not trying to be negative. I have made myself, family and friends stuff that cost me more than you could buy it for. I at least tell myself that it is better quality and it usually is. Those are "patchwork" chaps. Zoom in on the picture. You'll see that each leg is made up of several panels of leather so the manufacturer can use all the hide. Making one pair at a time, that would make it more time consuming for me and lower the quality. You might have him look at these: https://www.foxcreekleather.com/1-6mm-1-8mm-motorcycle-chaps/ A little more realistic price and hopefully closer something you might make. Where you can shine is the custom fitting. Measure around the thigh at the crotch, around the knee(bent at 90 degrees), make sure the calf is large enough to go over pants and boots. I usually add about an inch to each of those measurements for my pattern. Another problem with off the shelf is that the inseam usually lands about halfway between the crotch and knee. You need to determine where they will wear them. On westerns, the chap belt usually sits just below the jeans belt. I've seen guys wearing M/C chaps from practically their armpits to almost their crotch! When they decide where they will wear them, measure inseam and outseam. I apologize for the rant/book! JM2C

In my opinion the Rex 26-188 is an underrated workhorse. I repaired one for a friend. No frills but sews good. I had heard horror stories of walking foot machines roughing up the leather but after setting foot pressure, no problem. JM2C

@Hairic I forgot to mention, that leather wasn’t as supple as I would’ve liked. The thickness is great but look for something with a fairly soft hand. Bison or elk are popular for premium m/c chaps. Kangaroo is popular for racing leathers. @fredk , All I can say is OUCH!

I got a "page not found" error from your link. I used a 4-5 oz oil tan. Reversed the leather(rough out) for the yoke. They claim the big advantage of leather over textiles for M/C gear is that you "slide" instead of "tumble" on the pavement in an accident. I have not personally tried this theory. One thing I do like about M/C chaps is the tendancy to have pockets. They are becoming more popular on some western chaps as well. JM2C

Nice work!

I doubt if it is any help. I gave away my M/C chaps and made myself a pair of fairly plain western shotgun chaps. M/C chaps always made me feel like I should be looking for the rest of the Village People. I know it is just something wrong inside my head but I like these a lot better. JM2C

Great work!

I would think it would be very dificult to turn right side out if you made it of 12 oz. Would your seams be "sharper" if you wet the leather before turning it? I think it looks great! It will darken with time and UV as well as NF oil. JM2C

And... If you have an intruder, you can smack him with. It might not disable him but he'd be easy to identify.

You can start at the billet tip and go each way. That would reduce your thread length by half. I usually just use 6 foot at a time. I know if you look closely you can see the backstitching (to anchor the end). It doesn't bother me. JM2C, Jim