jrdunn

Nice work!

I have a CB4500. I have the presser foot tension fairly low. It is not marking the leather, the needle foot is. I haven't found how to reduce the tension on the needle foot. @AtomicLeathers, It looks like at least some of your marks are made by the needle foot too. I'd be very interested to find out how to adjust it. I haven't had my Cowboy long either. Watching. Jim

Maria, I think "getting to know the machine" might be a bit of understatement. I think they should name the thing after you! You have brought it back from the dead. (Avoiding references to Frankenstein's monster for obvious reasons.) My hat is off to you.

Be careful using a Walther PP series mould. The underlug(part of the frame in front of the trigger guard) is signicantly different and will prevent the pistol from properly seating into a fitted or molded holster.

Very nice!

Maria, WOW, just wow.

I really imagined something involving a map on the wall, a handful of darts and a blindfold.

@Tequila, I know this won't help you now. When I ordered my CB4500 from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines, I had it delivered to my local feed store(A place I visit reuglarly.). They have a dock and a forklift, no problem. I have a forklift too but would have to make an appointment for them to deliver, take off work. If they miss a delivery date, we go through it again. It all worked out great. I made the manager a token "gift", everyone was happy. Bob Kovar at Toledo said that it wasn't the first time to deliver to a feed store. I suppose any other cooperative business with a dock or forklift would work. I guess I'm just more comfortable around people with bovine feces on their footwear. Maybe this will help you if you have to have it reshipped or you order another later. Maybe it will help someone else. As with most of my posts, it's JM2C. Jim

Maria, Wow, just wow. I'm amazed at the progress you have made! When I saw the early pictures I thought "boat anchor". Oh, me of little faith. Jim

Welcome to leatherworker.net!

Looks like you're managing pretty well. If your run out of bullets, you can smack them with it.

Chuck, I always like your holsters, no nonsense! Jim

Just don't include "sewer". It may be misconstrued with a slightly more odiferous connotation.

I always say "butterfly" on the Rorschach test but may try sea turtle next time. It's kept me out of confinement so far. Excellent glasses case!

Yeah, don't order an Osborne bag punch either. I was warned that they don't come sharpened. They hadn't even smoothed down all the welds. It will have to be shaped (tapered) to even be ready to put an edge on. If you were to try and use it, it would just mash the leather. I like my old Osborne tools. New ones, not at all.

The ship is very interesting. I have noticed you talking about being onboard a ship but had no idea. Maybe you can watch the SLC videos when you are home. Your daughter might even watch them too. I sewed the zippers on my first pair with my wife's domestic machine and hand stitched a poorly tooled(by me) yoke on. I really had no idea how bad I was back then. I was self taught(uneducated). I've sewn some on a singer tailoring machine, bottom feed only. The stitch length was all over the place. When I got my Singer 29K71 patcher, I thought it was great. I now have a JUKI 562 triple feed. The stitch length is very consistent. It may be an ideal machine for this type of work. I have made working chaps and motorcycle chaps. I think many times both of those end up being worn for "fashion" puposes or just being seen in them. Your daughter might be interested in "equitation chaps", they are more fitted. Possibly "chinks", a shorter(slightly longer than knee length) version of the batwing that usually have fringe and at least some moderate decoration. A tooled yoke does look good, though. Suede used to be used on the leggings for a less expensive option. Now, it seems like suede is just as expensive as top grain. It still looks good but for the same price, I'd go with top grain. It is stronger although It may not drape as well.

Wise words indeed, no matter your age. I'm no against "bling". It just doesn't suit me. I'm kinda plain. I think the pictures Dwight posted are rodeo chaps. They are intended to get your(and the judges') attention at a distance of 30 to 100 yards, or meters for the more enlightened. That much decoration may seem a little overwhelming up close. JM2C Your daughter may be starting a new trend! More power to her. Sprinfield Leather did a 3 part Youtube video about making chaps. It really is pretty good. I don't think they addressed the inseam/outseam issue but I'm not sure. Just measure the outseam( the distance from where you want the top of the yoke(usually just below the jeans belt area) to how low you want them to hang. Many people like them to drag the floor.). Then measure the inseam(crotch to the same place. floor?) The difference is the "rise". I usually make the rise 1"-2" more than the difference. You don't want it to bind up when walking, squatting or sitting. I usually let the person being fitted hold the crotch end of the tape. That way no one gets the wrong idea, especially my wife! SLC addresses fitting the thigh and knee areas pretty well in their videos. I apologize for the length and hope I didn't "overexplain" too much. Here is a link:

I agree! The holsters are great as well!

Mulesaw, Something I have done for just a little "contrast" is make the yoke flesh side out (assuming the color is struck through). Most of my chaps and my customer's are generally bling free as the are usually working chaps. One more idea particularly on the Tandy pattern, most people need the inseam higher. On some people, especially "low waisted ladies", the crotch area hangs halfway to the knee. It is a small thing but makes a big difference on a "custom" look versus "off the shelf". One other pointer, if you can orient your pattern so the outside of the leg runs along the back, it will usually make the most noticable part of the chap more consistent in appearance and stretch with less wrinkles. The other edge goes behind the outside and is less visible. Good work. JM2C, Jim

Thank you @Wizcrafts

All six worked for me.

@Northmount, Thank you very much. I assume that my antivirus didn't like it. JM2C, Jim

I know this is an old thread but I need a parts manual for a Nakajima TDU N62(Rex 26-188), please. The link in the above post that @Uwe provided opens a tab, then closes it immediately. I don't know if it is broken or a compatability issue. Many thanks!

Mtlbiker, Yes, 1/0 is the very next size up from 001. 004 is the smallest and 3/0 is the largest listed there. That is why I suspect it is based on a "wire size". 004-0(or 1/0) is gauge, meaning higher number=smaller wire. The "0" is sometimes listed as 0, 00, 000 instead of 1/0, 2/0, 3/0. I don;t know why, it just is. Bear in mind this is my understanding of it, not an absolute proclamation of the truth. I have received my order from JJ and the relative sizes bear this out. Jim

The 1/0 is the size larger than the 001(in JJ needles). I don't use Tiger thread specifically. I use Rhino. It seems less expensive but is similar. I can thread 1mm Rhino through the 001 if I wax it well. 1/0 is recommended for 1mm Tiger or Rhino(braided thread). I have trouble getting 1mm twist thread through a 2/0(next size up). I don't know but suspect that the sizing system came from wire gauge as it has a similar system. JM2C.