DieselTech

Thanks. I appreciate it. I've been looking at some of the Alran Sully for wallets. Does it have a firm hand/temper? Thanks. That Sully leather sure patinas nice.

That card holder is still sexy even after 6years. Nice work! What particular leather is that? If you dont mind. Thanks.

Guys & gals I'm curious if any of you seasoned professionals have worked with Crocodile leather. I'm looking at buying a whole hide & curious if it would be ok for wallets & card holders & such. Is it hard to work with? Is it durable, as in lasting? Thanks.

Welcome to the group. Bunch of great people here. Enjoy!

I'm curious how hard that teju lizard was to work with? Is it kinda scaly & hard to punch your stitching punches thru. Thanks.

I'm no help on what your curious about. But another thing to think about would be warranty & parts availability. Just in case something does break.

The light colored leather next to the wall is a pebble finished/textured Conceria Walpier Dollaro in the color whiskey. The reddish looking leather is Conceria Walpier Buttero in Chestnut. Its smooth. The dark colored leather is also Conceria Walpier Buttero in Mahogany. Also smooth. I'm waiting on some Conceria Walpier Museum to arrive. Other than it's the same firmness.

I am going to recommend you check out any of these 3 leathers. They are firm hand leather & got great body to them. Beautiful leather & great color choices. Conceria Walpier Buttero. Conceria Walpier Dollaro. Conceria Walpier Museum. I would recommend 5oz or a bit heavier.

Thanks. I'm not sure how low the temperature settings go. But the high temperature is adjustable up to 900°F Thanks I got lots of practice to do & research on what tips to use & have.

Yeah I keep asking myself what border/camouflage stamp would look good with the dragon scale. Lol I keep telling myself it is missing something, just not sure what. Thanks.

Thanks I appreciate it. Yeah the Zhong Jiang stamps are nice, but they are almost as pricey as Barry King stamps.

Another question for the professionals & seasoned leather workers. If I want to add a crease line to the card pockets with my electric creasing machine? Do i do it before dying the card pockets? Or do I add my crease line after it is dyed? Thanks.

Guys & gals I decided to make another money clip wallet. Its stamped/tooled with a dragon scale # e803 from Zhong Jiang. It's a bit off, but also the very 1st time of using it. The leather is 4-5oz premium select Quebracho from tandy. It is sponge dyed with Fiebings light brown pro dye. You could not distinguish the dragon scale very good after the dye dried. So I decided to antique it with Fiebings dark brown gel. Looks better to me now. Then I decided to get fancy or something like that, LOL. & added a plaid sheepskin lining. Its glued in with 3M spray adhesive. I got to decide about putting some tooling on the card pockets, something simple. Then dye them. Then I'll add the spring bar money clip in & stitch it up. Couple questions: Should I have not ran my dragon scale stamp soo close to the stitch border? & should I have maybe used a camouflage stamp all the way around with the dragon scale stamp? Let me know what I'm doing right, wrong or indifferent. Thanks. I'm all ears.

I was also curious if anybody could tell me what the L series creaser tips do. Rocky mountain calls them a leather edge embossing tip. So does this tip just make a square flat type crease/line from the edge of the leather to whatever mm width of tip is chosen? Thanks.

Duh! I forgot to ask: Does anybody have any temperature recommendations for certain leathers? I'm sure I got more questions, just cant think of them. Thanks.

Guys & gals my new electric creasing machine showed up today. Now I'm eager to learn how to use it. What temps for what leathers & such. It came with 10 tips. Watch strap tip, spatula tip, pointed thread burning tip, 1mm, 1.5mm, & 2mm crease line tips. 1.5mm compact crease line tip. & a couple others. I have verified Rocky mountain mini creaser tips thread right on. What tips do you recommend to pick up to have? The other question I got is: Do I still need to use my edge beveler to bevel the edge of the leather, before using the creasing machine on it? Thanks any & all help will be appreciated.

Looks great. Nice work. Looks top notch.

Looks great! Nice work. Should last her for years.

Awesome work!!! Love your tool work. Looks great. Is that all hand stitched or machine stitched? Thanks.

Yeah this stuff is nice & firm & has absolutely no stretch by hand. It should make awesome wallets & lined dress belts.

Thanks I appreciate it. Yeah it is some of the nicest leather that I have handled. I'll look into that & see if I can gain some length.

Thanks. That is kinda how I was visioning it. But I can only get 52" belt blanks from this hide. I should of had them sort me out a longer hide. Now I'm wondering if it's worth me cutting any belt blanks out of it. This leather sure would make a nice lined belt. It's nice stuff. It's hard to believe how consistent it is. In thickness & in feel. This is Conceria Walpier Dollaro if anybody is wanting to know exactly what it is. Thanks.

Ok I look & do some more research. Thanks.

Guys & gals I got a hide from Conceria Walpier from Italy. Its 5oz pebble finished leather. In the color whiskey. My question is. What would be the best way to cut this hide. I would like to cut some belt blanks out of it for dress belts. But the main reason i got it was for wallets. Can somebody help or be willing to share a bit of advice. I know straight down the back makes the best belts, or so they say. Thanks. Any & all help will be appreciated.

Thanks toxo! Them are great looking bags. Them are like the pattern I found I like. Thanks for the pics. I got a good understanding how you made your dies. Yeah if stitch holes are added to the die, I found it adds another $60-$80 per die to add the stitch prongs.