Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'sewing'.
Found 244 results
-
Like a lot of people on here, I am struggling with which machine to get. I have not been able to find a chart that correlates thread size with leather thickness. My question is; how light of thread and needle size do I need to sew two layers of 4 oz veg tan? How heavy of thread and needle do I need to sew two layers of 10oz? Some of the heavy machines say they will sew as light as 69 thread size. Is that realistic? I appreciate the time the experienced craftsmen spend answering rookie questions. Thanks in advance.
-
I would like to rivet (or sew, as my backup plan) 1/4" wide kangaroo lace. But I can't seem to find on the internet, tiny rivets, less than 6 mm wide. Any ideas?
-
What I want to know is which type of thread you would recommend for sewing Mocs, and maybe why? I am sewing them by hand so also what size thread? Have researched these forums and no luck, Linen, Nylon, Polyester? Thanks in advance for all you help and advice. Paul
-
Hello, I'm sure this question has been asked here before, but I looked through the threads and didn't find what I was looking for. I am considering starting up a small business selling leather items I have sewn. I will be starting with children's moccasins. I have a basic sewing machine that is doing an ok job of sewing the leather, but I know I need to buy a better machine if I am going to make this a business. I am wondering what the best bang for your buck is when it comes to a machine that will sew leather well. I don't have thousands to spend on a new machine. But I do want something that will get the job done.
-
Are you looking for an experienced leatherworker ? This individual has over 25 years experience in making and designing saddles,chaps,and a wide variety of tack and personal items as well. Is willing to relocate. He has taught leather instruction classes in the US as well as over seas. He has been awarded numerous awards for several different types of saddles,tack,chaps, and belts. He is looking for a full time postion and would also be interested is talking with someone who is looking to expand their business since he has a complete shop which includes a clicker & dies, 20" strap cutter, foot presses, splitter, Adler sewing machine,2 Singer flat bed sewing machines,Artisan sewing machine, Union Lock Stitch sewing machine,Bar Tacker sewing machine,Cinderella wire stapler, punch presses, large inventory of hand tools by Horse Shoe Brand, Barry King, and others. Extensive collection of tooling and stampimg tools by Barry King,Wayne Jueske,Gore Tool, Bob Beard, etc. Patterns for saddles, chaps,halters,headstalls, and too many to list. Some inventory of finished products. Has competed in cutting,team roping,saddle bronc riding, reining,western pleasure,and bull riding so he has a working knowledge of how to produce products that are functional as well as eye appealling. Anyone interested in this individual can contact me for further information. References both personal and professionally will be provided upon request. This could be in once in a life time opportunity to add a person of this quality to your organization.
-
Hi, this is my first post on leatherworker! I have an industrial machine, a singer, for very lightweight sewing (I had to order special narrow needles) so I am looking to buy a new machine for sewing thick leather, 5-7oz I have found some good machine heads on ebay, Consew 255B, Singer 211W115, and very old but apparently in good working condition Singer 111W115 (someone I worked for had this exact machine, also old but very beautiful and reliable stitching) My current table and motor are in great condition, the motor is a Tacsew, clutch, 5.8 amp. My question is...possibly a dumb one...but will any/all of these machine heads fit and run with this motor? I read your post about clutch vs servo, but still felt unsure about combining a different head with my existing clutch. Thanks in advance! here is a photo of my motor.
-
Hi All, I'm new to sewing and new to working with leather, but I have a collection of leather remnants and an inherited industrial singer sewing machine (20U-109) that I would like to start experimenting with. I'm interested in trying my hand at making handbags and possibly some leather garments. I've read online that my machine can be used to sew leather, but when I called about getting my machine serviced, I was told that it would not sew leather. Has anyone used this type of machine for sewing leather? And more importantly, what kind of machine would you recommend to someone who was just starting out sewing leather? Thanks All, for any insight you may have! Emma -
Here we have a Nakajima 280L Industrial Sewing Machine for sale. Made in Japan. Comes with table, motor, table light and 3 spool holder. This machine is also equipped with a speed reducer pulley. One Owner. Works great, rarely used, in excellent condition! Buyer pays for shipping from 94954.
-
Here we have a Juki LU 562 Industrial Sewing Machine for sale. Made in Japan. Comes with table, motor, table light and 2 spool holder. Has been serviced regularly & works great! Buyer pays for shipping from 94954.
-
I am having another issue with loops showing on the top of the leather. I am using a Cowboy 3200. I think the issue may be the bobbin tightness but not sure. Sometimes the thread coming up from the bobbin is so tight it won't pull out. At first we had the bobbin in upside down but we sewed with it like that for quite awhile (2 weeks) and then i had to change the bobbin out and put it in still upside down and now its doing top loops. I have fiddled with EVERYTHING and checked the manual over and over again. I just can't figure this one out. Can someone please shed some light on what this might be? Thanks!
-
I am tasked with cleaning out our warehouse and inside are numerous pieces of machinery from an old leather factory. I am curious as to what each of these machines do, how much they cost new and how much are they worth used. Really interested in the second picture it looks like a really interesting piece of equipment The last few pictures are of a machine that we disassembled and cleaned it was made by randall machinery from New York it has the numbers R6501 and R6562 sramped on the housing and the model number is R-14. It appears to be working fine, and it seems as if the cobra company still makes a similar machine was curious to know how much it is worth.
-
I have an Artisan Toro 3000 sewing machine for sale. I bought this machine from the original owner last year. It is in very good condition and I have used it very little. $1600.00. Located near Yakima, Wa. Shipping possible at buyer expense. It comes with the following accessories: Flatbed attachment Work light Left, right and groove presser feet Large and small double toe presser feet Roller edge guide Partial spools 346/277 white thread 3 spare bobbins 2 packs of needles Machine oil Maintenance tool kit Extra brushes Manual
-
Can anyone give me any info on this old sewing machine? I know it's a Davis and the motor works. I don't have any numbers yet but I may be able to get them in a few days. A friend of mine is asking $400 for it or he'll throw it in if I buy his truck haha. He said it came out of an old saddle shop and can sew up to 3/8". He said it just needs to be timed. Would this be a good buy for a beginner? I mostly build holsters and other various goods, nothing too thick. Also how much would it cost to have it "tuned up", or is that something a mechanically inclined person could do on his own? If not how about a place to take it around the eastern Phoenix AZ area? Thank you to all!
-
All. I'm having trouble with the backside stitch of my machine. I have a cowboy 4500 but the backside stitch is horrible. Un-dyed leather pushes through and the holes/stitching are just ugly... Anyone know of a fix?
-
Large belt with double run of stitching. !/4 came out with knot on top...don't know why yet. I removed this and tried various top tension settings to resew but the knot is always on top, I suspect due to the hole size/lack of leather resistance. Cobra 4, using 138 thread and a23 leather cutting needle. Any help with this? I don't want to saddle stitch this. regards, Dean
-
I thought I'd suggest a cord I've used for hand sewing leather since I've seen posts for folks looking for additional colors. I have a fiber and beading background and I use C-lon for beading and kumihimo braiding in addition to leather sewing. The standard C-lon is Tex 210, 3-ply, z twist, 35 pound breaking strength. It doesn't come in large spools (86-92 yds.) but it comes in 104 colors. The C-lon Tex 400 is .09mm and 75 pound breaking strength and comes in 72 colors. C-lon comes in finer weights as well. You buy it from beading and micro-macrame suppliers. My usual source is Marion Jewels in FIber. There are other sources that are easy to google but she has some great info on thread/cord specs. There is another cord called S-lon (Superlon) that is virtually the same and available from different beading suppliers.
-
Just found this site tonight and am blown away by all the knowledge! You guys rock! Looking for a sewing machine to make bags and purses. I am new to leather work. Am very good with regular fabric sewing. I learned the right machine for the job is a must. I've read another pinned post here about motors, needles, and walking feet. I have a range of leathers from very thin to upholstery. I'd like to use them all. Not sure what needle or thread sizes I would need. Can a single machine sew 3/8 to 1 inch thickness? I am doing this from home just for me and possibly friends. My thinking is 1500-2500 should buy a good machine. I really don't know. Thanks. Looking forward to your replies. Amy
-
I am looking recommendations on a inexpensive, hand crank machine. The older machines look like a nice option but I am not sure which ones are easiest to find parts for or get serviced. I am typically sewing 2 to 3 layers of light weight upholstery, veg tan or suede leather. All layers combines are around 3/16 to 1/4" thick. Thanks in advance, Spencer
-
Hi everyone, Wondering if I could get some expert advice! I am currently working on some leather coin purses. For marking the stitching holes I use an edge crease and then a pricking iron. The pricking iron does go through the veg tan but makes a very small hole, meaning when I am stitching on the pony, I widen the hole using my awl to enable the needle to pass through. When I push the awl through, one side looks fine but on the back, the pressure of the awl is tearing the leather and it looks a bit cracked. On the finished product one side looks perfect but the back does not look the same, it looks a little messier. Whilst I am still very pleased with the outcome, I was wondering if there is any way I can prevent this? Or, is it a simple case of this is the way it is? Any help welcomed Thanks!
-
I grabbed a baseball from walmart and hope to have time to recover this puppy. I know how to make the baseball stitch.... but I can't see how the ended the stitch.. it doesn't look like they backstitched it, can anyone clear this up for me?. tnx Geo
-
What thickness of thread do you use to get the best looks? bonded-nylon-brochure.pdf
-
I'm making my first purse / handbag. It is a christmas gift...actually, I'm going to make ten of them. Yeah, I know it's the 16 and I've got nine days left. I got my first one nearly finished last night, and figured out a lot by making some mistakes. The biggest issue I had was sewing around the corners of the gussets. There has to be an easier way, or a trick or something. I tried it a couple of different ways, and I'm not sure any of them are the best option. First, I cut a notch to allow the leather to fold around. Then I just tried to force it into place and sew around. then, I just sewed a straight line across the corner and made it a seperate stitch. Any advice on the best way to accomplish this? As you can see in the pictures, I'm sewing the bags inside out then flipping them to leave the seam on the inside of the bag. This one does not have a liner. On other bags, I'm going to roll the front of the bag, like I did the sides...much better look.
-
Last summer I bought this Cobra Class 4 sewing machine new. Since then, I have been hired full-time and am in the process of moving to be closer to said job. I'm hoping to avoid having to move relocate this *very* heavy piece of equipment, and since I don't have time to devote to leatherworking, I'd rather see it go to a new home. It's been used very lightly for about 9 months, regularly oiled, and kept indoors. I got the deluxe package with it, including various accessories to go along with it. I'm asking $1800 for the machine, and all the accessories (including the table, lights, thread, etc). I'll also throw in all of my leather supplies, which include several sides of leather, lots of buckles, rivets, studs, and other various knick-knacks from Tandy, along with all leatherworking tools I have. I'd estimate the value for the other leather stuff to be from $250 - $500 alone. I'd rather not have to ship everything, so it'll be pick-up only. I'll accept cash or money order. Location is Auburn, Alabama, 36830.
-
Just wondering do you guys so a stitch groove on front and back of a wallet before punching the stitch holes ? or just do one side and do the other side after all holes are punched
-
I've seen people posting on the forum about using fishing line instead of nylon bristles or boar bristles for sewing (especially shoemaking). Some questions: What kind/weight of fishing line? How do you 'split' them (if at all?)? Can it be reused afterwards or is it just discarded? Any help is much appreciated!
