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Showing results for tags 'tooling'.
Found 193 results
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Album here - http://imgur.com/a/2FUDZ#0 This was my first attempt at making belts. I've been doing this as a hobby for about 8 months now. My stamping got off a bit with his name, but other than that I'm pretty happy. My wife asked me to make the fashion belt for her. It proved to be a challenge with the petal layout because my rivets were only long enough to go through the belt and one layer of petals, not two petals. -
Hi this is my first complete project. Well, kind of complete, because it's a set of 2 and I'm still finishing the other side up. I made these for my buddy's 100th anniversary Fatboy as a Christmas present. He said he wanted a different kind of shape to fit the lines of the bike better. I've custom painted a lot of bikes, but never made bags for any. My dad was a master at tooling leather, so I thought with a little advice from him and my expertise in packaging design, it was possible. Obviously I had no idea on the amount of work involved. My friends wife bought all the leather. I did all the work. That was the deal. They loved the end result and I think it turned out pretty good for a first try. Obviously its not as clean as a lot of work I've seen on here. But I learned a lot from the hours and hours I've spent, reading everybody posts and looking at everybody's work here. So thanks. A Lot. Again, it's my first try at making anything out of leather and I know I made a lot of mistakes, but I learned a lot and I think the next set will be much better.
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Ladies and gentlemen, I am in the process of completing this for a biker's vest. I am posting to request some guidance on tooling the ram's head. If anybody has done anything similar, if you could post it, I would greatly appreciate it. I used the search function, saw a few animals but nothing like this. I did see that a member here, moeg, has a ram's head as his avatar but I was unable to open it up in a bigger size. Here is a picture of the only animal, wolf, that I have tooled. Being on a holster, it was alot smaller, I tried giving it as much detail as I could. Cedillo
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Good morning everyone! So I was wondering how you go about getting your tooled design one color and the rest of the leather another color without completely messing up your entire project? ha! I'm guessing one would use a resist of some sort and then do you just very carefuly dye around the tooled design? I really want to learn how to do this. I've researched the forums here and found examples people have posted out of their own work but never found a definitive explanation as to how this look is achieved. I have attached a picture of some spur straps a tack maker created that are the exact look I'm going for. They are an absolute beautiful piece of work and I would love to be able to achieve that two tone color effect in my own work. Thanks for your time everyone and hope you are all doing well!! I'm sure many of you are very busy getting Christmas orders together!!
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Hi everyone, i'm Yudha from Indonesia. i got a project for my study in college to make a tooled handbag. the problem that i need to ask, as an amateur, i have no idea which leather that good enough for tooling, so i've bought a vegtan buffalo (water buffalo) hide because it is very difficult to looking after an exact cowhide that i needed in my city. the question is, is it possible to tool a water buffalo hide? is there any treatment/result/process differences with this kind of hide? thanks!
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Hi All, I'm "Showing off" my first carvings here... As you might notice, I've only had a beginners set of tools. No different sizes in shaders, backgrounders or whatever... Tipps and criticism that will help to improve my work are always appreciated and I will learn from them, promise!! :-) The Floral design is inspired by very old swiss folk art. Stuff like that was painted on furniture... I wanted something different than the "useual" western-style designs (absolutely NO offense!) :-) Now the stain problem: As you see on pic 2 where I lay out the chinks I'm working on, I'm going for a straight natural look, the deer hide was laying in the sun for 4 days so there's a color-contrast anyway... I love the look, but theres a problem: In my carvings, a couple hours after I finished them with Fiebing's Leather Sheen, there where white stains showing (As on picture 3 "Stains"). Does anyone know why this is? Is there a way to get rid of them without staining/antiquing the leather? Also: If I finish the Carvings with leather sheen (or resolene or whatever), the leather can't take any oil or wax or other conditioners anymore right? I've learned that leather should always be takin care of with good conditioner or oils, so what's about that? BTW: I'm sorry for the bad quality pic and lighting, it's early morning here and I didn't wanna wait for this to post (because of that stain thing, not to show off!... ;-) Thanks for your answers, Regards from switzerland, Andy -
Are you looking for an experienced leatherworker ? This individual has over 25 years experience in making and designing saddles,chaps,and a wide variety of tack and personal items as well. Is willing to relocate. He has taught leather instruction classes in the US as well as over seas. He has been awarded numerous awards for several different types of saddles,tack,chaps, and belts. He is looking for a full time postion and would also be interested is talking with someone who is looking to expand their business since he has a complete shop which includes a clicker & dies, 20" strap cutter, foot presses, splitter, Adler sewing machine,2 Singer flat bed sewing machines,Artisan sewing machine, Union Lock Stitch sewing machine,Bar Tacker sewing machine,Cinderella wire stapler, punch presses, large inventory of hand tools by Horse Shoe Brand, Barry King, and others. Extensive collection of tooling and stampimg tools by Barry King,Wayne Jueske,Gore Tool, Bob Beard, etc. Patterns for saddles, chaps,halters,headstalls, and too many to list. Some inventory of finished products. Has competed in cutting,team roping,saddle bronc riding, reining,western pleasure,and bull riding so he has a working knowledge of how to produce products that are functional as well as eye appealling. Anyone interested in this individual can contact me for further information. References both personal and professionally will be provided upon request. This could be in once in a life time opportunity to add a person of this quality to your organization.
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hi guys, i am hoping someone will be able to let me know how the designs in the example images are created. i am a novice leatherworker but most of the tools/techniques i have seen for tooling leather involve mainly stamping. but in these examples a tool is being used to remove some of the leather, kind of like a stitch-groover, but i imagine it must be different somehow since the ends of the lines all taper nicely to a point, which i don't think you can achieve with a standard stitch-groover. also i would like to point out (in case there is some confusion) these examples are *not my own work*; they are from 'wasteland oddities' vendor on etsy.com, linked here: https://www.etsy.com/ca/shop/WastelandOddities?ref=l2-shopheader-name i would have liked to reach out to creator directly but i don't have a facebook account and don't want one. anyways, any advice on how this tooling effect is achieved would be greatly appreciated. thanks! -
So I got a problem I´d really like to fix. As I made several sword sheath (Larp) and similar for customers so far (and will do more in the future), I usually wet mold them around a wooden form before stitching, sometimes I add some tooling and sometimes I treat them with hot water to get the a little stiffer. My usually sequence for doing this was more or less this one: - tooling (wet) - molding (wet) - stitching - dyeing - heat treatment/boiling (wet) - applying finish and stuff. So the main problems I got are: 1) When I dye the piece, the colour becomes uneven as some ares are compressed more than others through the process of molding. Maybe it´s usefull to add that I use a sponge for the dye-job, when the colours should be lighter, I wrap some cloth around it so there´ll be less colour per layer) -> My solution would be to dye it before molding, as it´s easier to apply evenly and the fibres are mor even, too. The reason of doing it afterwards was, that the dye stiffens the leather a little bit, but I think an even colour has a higher priority. 2) The main issue is, that the tooling really looses definition. After tooling I case it two more times (molding and "boiling") so it evens out a bit once and again. Besides for the heat treatment I use water hot at about 75 to max. 90 °C (~167 - 194 Fahrenheit) (I use a boiler and a thermometer, so I never get the same temperature). For the process I boil the water and pour it over the stitched sheath on the form, so even if I use 90°C, the leather wouldn´t reach that temperature completeley and won´t get that brittle. But with this molding process, the top grain starts to shrink and every cut from the swivelknife opens up a lot while the stamping starts to fade away... For that problem I got no solution right now and I can´t figure out how to do it right. I think there are some liquids out there used for stiffening leather instead of boiling it, but I don´t know how that will affect the dyejob or the finishing process.... I think it might be an idea to mold the sheath right after tooling to get one casing step out of the line, but then I´d have to case, tool and mold in one step.... Any ideas, tips or solutions to this one? -
Hi guys, my girlfriend asked me a carved belt, but since she doesn't want a complex one, I was looking for simple ways to decorate it. I found this interesting example: https://www.etsy.com/it/listing/84019596/hand-carved-amber-vine-handcrafted?ref=sr_gallery_18&ga_search_query=leather+belt+carved&ga_ship_to=IT&ga_page=2&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery I was wondering how it is tooled..it seems simply cut and beveled..isn't it? or is it a more complex work? Thanx a lot!! Daniele
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Hey there, Some questions on using Belly leather. My apologies if this post is a bit long winded. From what I have read it is more flexible with a looser grain. How does this effect tooling & carving? Will it maintain a good deep impression as the item ages? Can it be used for small items such as belt buckles, cuff bracelets and flask covers without a huge compromise in quality despite the looser grain and stretchiness? Why do many people consider bellies to be scrap leather? (the low cost is obviously appealing to a beginner but I don't want to make useless products just to save money) I just made my first leather purchase at W & C, directly from the tannery. I spoke with the gentleman on the phone and mentioned this was my first time purchasing leather, that I was on a budget and wondered whether it would be more cost effective to get a full side (belly and all), or just the back (less square footage with belly removed). I naively was under the impression the cost would be the same per squre foot, and the guy said nothing to indicate otherwise on the phone. He said the back would be more cost effective as it was smaller and the belly is removed...however when I recieved my invoice the price listed per square foot was $8.25 rather than the $7.15 I was expecting- uh oh! I ignorantly failed to notice at the bottom of the website page, the little box that it mentioned an additional $1.20 surcharge per square foot for the back. The man on the phone never mentioned the surcharge and actually quoted me the price without it (a couple hundred dollars less than the actual cost!). Oops! Never going to do that again! SO, to make a long story short I plan to order a full side next time, and am wondering, what to do with that belly leather? Obviously the quality is not the same, but if I am able to make small items that hold their tooling and don't require much strength with belly leather it would be fantastic! In that case I could save a tonne of money and buy bellies for these kind of items. However I do plan to sell some of my cuff bracelets and don't want to be giving a customer a substandard product. Any thoughts/opinions on the matter? Anyone with some experience in regards to using/tooling/dying the bellies? Here are some pictures of the kind jewellery/items I want to make (unassembled):
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What do you guys think, this is my first belt(actually the strap blank in my Tandy beginners kit)? I am new to leather work, started doing a few guitar straps before this belt. Allan
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There is probably already a thread on this but i had no luck searching it. Currently i am transferring my images onto the leather with a modeling stylus the image on top, then Grey/white transfer paper (Depending on the dye or antique) onto cased leather rubbed with a glass burnisher. as you can guess i have had issues with the white not showing up well (in some cases its clear as day) and issues with the gray getting embedded into the leather then i have to dye or antique to cover it up. I was hoping to get a collective on how the rest of you transfer your carving image. I know really experienced toolers freehand with their swivel knife but personally im just not that confident in my skills at this point. Thanks, Murf
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I have 3 pieces of side leather for sale. First is a Muir McDonald tooling side measuring around 8' long and 15" deep. The belly is a separate cut of long pieces by about 4" each. There are also some scraps. $25. plus shipping Next is a Tandy or Hermann Oak (cannot remember!) tooling side which is also about 8' long and 19" deep. This is smooth and lighter natural than the Muir hide. $25. plus shipping Last is a John Whites England bridle butt in Newmarket. It is about 70" long and 17" deep. Bridle weight of 3.5 to 4mm. $90. plus shipping Will sell as a lot for $125. plus shipping. PM if interested. More photos available via email.
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Good day Most of the time when you are stamping the leather, it will stretch. To avoid leather stretching, most methods out there is using a glue to glue the leather to a card board. This is ok but it is messy and taking the leather of the card board will leave marks on the leather. I have learned a better way that does not leave marks and very fast and simple to use and I would like to share it with you all. Use PAINTER tape and tape the back of your leather peace before you start stamping (Tape ALL the back side). The leather will stop stretching and it will be simple to remove it without leaving glue traces. Happy Stamping and Tooling. www.lecuir.net https://www.etsy.com/ca/people/lecuirnet -
I'm learning to brain-tan leather and was wondering about the advantages and disadvantages of using brain-tanned leather for tooling. I'm new to leatherworking, but am ultimately interested in transferring illustrations onto leather and carving them like this. Everything that I've read thus far indicates that I should be using veg-tanned leather rather than brain-tanned leather, but I'd like to be able to use the same leather for tooling that I'm using for garment construction. Any advice for a beginner? -
This a Leather case I made for when I do leather fare work to carrie my hand stamping tools in.
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I'm very new to this but i have been wet forming knife sheaths and a few holsters. My question...Tool before or after wet forming. The trouble i'm having is once i have laid out pattern, tooled and stamped it when i wet form it the tooling and stamp fades. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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well here it is , i bought a swivel knife and a few basic tools , some times i find the knife hops a little on the leather .... any idea why ?
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Hey all, Just finished this little purse up last night. I'm not sure what type of leather the body is made from but it's very nice stuff... great grain and color to it. Celtic horses tooled into some 5/6oz veg tan. This measures roughly 8x10 inches. Adjustable buckled strap. More pics to come! Cheers, Andy -
So a couple things happend during the construction of this wallet that I thought I might ask for help. Its my first real rolled edge wallet and Im really happy with how it came out but it could be better. Im hoping the links above worked to show you detailed photos of the wallet on my photobucket page. I will post my questions below... 1. Does anyone provide Skiving as a service or know where I can shop and buy a mechanical skiver in the Portland, OR area? (I wrecked 4 pieces of veg tanned to get the one that worked with a safety skiver) 2. If I wanted my top-stitch on the outside of the wallet I cant see what I'm sewing... so? I prefer the look of the top stitch on the outside so I don't get those "blowout punctures". 3. In this pic it shows the "bridge" of the wallet. I like the way it encourages the bend in the wallet but I am curious if it should be sewn or just rolled like I did. Please let me know what you think good and bad. Please be strict. I want to make them better in every way. -
Do I dye my leather before or after tooling? I've been dying after is this right?
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Hello, This question is for those who have worked with Springfield's "Top Grade Tooling Sides" and Wickett & Craigs tooling sides (Or Hermann Oak). I am wondering if there is a visible difference in quality between the two? I will not be carving at all, just cutting shapes and sewing and riveting, so I am looking for a leather that will look great. I have been using Springfield's for a while and have been very happy with it. So - is it worth it to pay a few dollars more for the Wickett just based on the final look? Thanks!
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Open for suggestions. Love it before dying. I'm a rookie on this site. Learning the how to's. Anyway here's the photo. Thanks Harry. I'm a rookie on this site. Learning the how to's. Anyway here's the photo. Thanks Harry.
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Hey all, I have a little problem on my hands. I just finished this little project and after I added the finishing touches and sealed my leather with resolene, I then realized i forgot to add my stamp. So my question is it possible to still case the leather, maybe from the backside so it gets it damp near the core and then add my logo? I'm sure if i were to try to add water to the front it would just bead up and never soak in. Also the flesh side is lined with fabric that has been attached to the leather with some 3M 77 spray adhesive. Just hope someone had a few tips before I start this. Thanks! P.S. Its a little christmas gift for my girlfriend so I can't mess this up
