Wizcrafts

That is not a model number. It is the serial number of a machine. So, I ran a lookup of your serial number on Ismacs and found that you have a 1939 Model 66 domestic sewing machine. It is strictly designed to sew light cloth in a home setting. It uses standard domestic needles in system HAx1, which are sold everywhere domestic sewing needles are sold. It uses a special Class 66 bobbin, which you can buy in Joann Fabrics, or Walmart (plastic nowadays). You should use regular cotton or polyester garment thread in this machine.

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Decades ago I had a sewing job on a Juki LU-563 and needed a binder to lay double folded bias tape along the edges of the work. We settled on a custom made double folder, costing $450, and 1 1/4" wide spools of bias tape. A special contraption was built to hold the roll of tape in the best position to feed to right angle folder. Special presser feet were used with the folder. Something similar could be made for the newer Juki DNU-1508. Check with Atlanta Attachment Company.

I just buy standard size, but higher quality cones of serger thread at Joann Fabrics, or any other store that sells domestic sewing supplies. I use system DBx1, size 14 needles. I could move down to #12 needles for tighter holes, but see no need for it. Test both sizes in a test seam of your canvas. If you buy extra heavy thread, like size 80, you'll definitely need at least #16, or possibly #18 needles. Size 80 is light weight "jeans" thread. I buy #80 thread, along with #105 heavy jeans thread from Wawak.com. All of the above mentioned thread is either cotton, or polyester, or cotton wrapped over a polyester core (aka: Polycore). The better quality serger and jeans threads are not as fuzzy as lesser quality brands. It's a good idea to examine the thread on the cones before buying it. The better Q thread cones cost double what the el-cheapo cones sell for.

The correct needle system for a Singer 31-15 is DBx1, also known as 1738, or 16x257 (and a few other designations). They are definitely round on the top shank and do NOT have a flatted side! Only domestic sewing machine needles use that flat side system, mostly is HAx1, the most common type in home sewing machines. Do NOT use HAx1 flatted shank needles in an industrial sewing machine unless it specifically is built to use them (I can't imagine why it would).

I keep fusible iron on tape, a half inch wide, on hand for sewing satin linings and soft cloth. I use a Singer 31-15 for those jobs.

I just splice in about 3 stitches before where the bobbin ran out. But, I try to bury the existing knots before sewing over them by pulling on the top and remaining bobbin threads. I hold the old threads out to the right side so I cross them once, then continue on.

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Then back off the bobbin spring tension to reduce the required top tension. Also, make sure you are using the proper needle size for the thread on top and in the bobbin. See this needle and thread chart for a reference.

A number 26 (220) needle is iffy for 6 cord linen thread. It really calls for a #27 (250). You might need to limit your machine to 5 cord thread, or buy some #27 leather point needles.

I used to have one like that, minus the binder parts. I took it on the road so I could sew in rooms I stayed in while traveling with road bands. I powered mine with a domestic sewing machine motor I bolted onto the back of the head. I mounted it on a 12x12x1/2 inch piece of wood.

Ferdco went out of business several years ago. All of their assets have been sold. The company that bought most of them has been unresponsive to inquiries about Ferdinand machines or parts. Any common parts (bobbins and needles) you need would probably be available on the aftermarket, most likely based on the commonly cloned Juki TSC-441. Ferdinand specific parts would probably be made of unobtanium. You would be smart to fully test this machine, or watch the current owner sew on it. If it sews without skipping stitches, great! If not, tread carefully.

I'd guess 6 cords would be standard for sewing shoe soles. But, it depends on the size of the needle. Is there a number like 25, 26, 27 (or 200, 220, 250), etc? If in doubt, take the needle to where they sell waxed linen thread and get the largest thread that easily slides through the eye of the needle without binding or dragging. The needle must punch a hole big enough for both the top and bottom thread to form a lockstitch knot. That knot will be about twice the diameter of one thread, or even more. If the needle is 2mm diameter, try using waxed thread just under 1mm. 6 cord linen thread is about .72mm diameter. You'll need more clearance than if you were using bonded polyester thread, which is wound tighter.

I guess I stand corrected. Sorry about my mistake. I have never seen a machine like that before.

Do you realize that the topic you replied to tonight is almost 8 years old since the last reply? If you want to sell your used sewing machine, we have a Market Place section, with a sub-section for used sewing machines. Post your ad there. Include an asking price, a location and a few close up photos.

Oops, I deleted that post thinking it was pure duplication. Sorry. Can you re-post the photos showing the bobbin case and throat plate? That bobbin case has to have some kind of tab that sits inside a cutout in the throat plate. There would be some sideways clearance in that cutout, letting the bobbin case move slightly left and right, clearing the thread as it goes around the case. There might also be a lever that pulls the bobbin case backwards, forcing clearance as the thread just begins to go around the bobbin case. This part is nowadays called a latch opener. Recap: The bobbin case must not revolve. It should wiggle a bit to clear the top thread. The throat plate would likely have a cutout to hold the tab on the bobbin case, if one exists in the ancient machine. A lever would probably be used to pull back on the bobbin case as the thread makes its way around.

Can you get some prewaxed thread and try sewing with it?

Is the feed and foot action back in sync now?

I second the vote to keep the #6 and have a raised throat plate made. I wish I had kept my Union Lockstitch. The bottom side of the leather on a jump foot, needle or awl feed machine is much closer to hand sewing than any machine that uses alternating feet. This is mainly because an inside foot pushes hard on the leather along the stitch line and forces the bottom to take the shape of the feed dog hole or throat plate slot. A jump foot machine doesn't have an inside alternating foot, thus the marks around the holes are much less pronounced. Did I mention that I wish I hadn't sold my ULS? LOL

Constabulary; Yes, the paddle shaped spring I referred to is on the needle bar of a Singer or Adler patcher. When they wear, the thread loop suffers no matter how you set the upper take-up parts.

I just replied to the wrong poster! Doh! T Moore, in Medicine Hat, that offer to sew a sample strap was meant for you.

True. But, there is still at least 3/8 inch capacity left on top of the stirrup plate on a CB4500. If you want to, mail me a sample of the strap you need to sew, that is giving you fits, and I will attempt to sew it on my CB4500, with the raised plate. I'll mail it back and take some pix of it being sewn. PM me for my address.

My comparison was meant to point out that a flat (or paddle shaped) spring can hold the thread in its most slack position (at the bottom of the downstroke) long enough for the loop to form as the needle begins to ascend from BDC. In the absence of any check spring, the slightest upward tug on the thread will dissolve the loop or cause it to not form at all. A patch machine depends on a paddle shaped check spring to hold the thread in place as the needle jogs down, up, then down again. When that spring wears out, the loop becomes too small to get picked off reliably. A broken spring usually translates into she won't sew at all.

It just dawned on me that a Cowboy CB3500 or CB4500 with a stirrup plate would be a great combination for sewing close to center bar harness buckles. That plate is not only raised, it is also curved. Here are pix of mine. Note, that the feed dog must be removed to use this throat plate.

Something has to stop the thread in the needle down position in order for the loop to form. It may well be the flat spring you outlined. That's sorta kinda like the function of the paddle spring on a 29k needle bar.