JLSleather

That do look like somethin' them hippies was into back then For some reason, folks wanted to "mystery braid" everything! The leather library has a couple of books with quite a few handbag patterns .. https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/p-1727-ideas-for-leather-projects-vol-1-1923.aspx? https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/p-1759-ideas-for-leather-projects-vol-2-1934.aspx There are two volumes, and much of the same info in one is in the other (including that "mystery braid" thing). I don't see that exact stamping pattern.. probably shipped on a free 'doodle page" back in 'the day'....

I absolutely recommend the drill press. Those grinders are WAY too fast. Seriously, I don't do it all the time, but I can get a NICE edge on leather with a stick in my hand.. in a few minutes. In teh drill press, I can run down both sides of a belt twice (which is what I usually do) at about 600 rpm with a 3/4" diameter "stick" for burnishing. I have tried higher speeds (and also lower speeds), but this seems to work out about the best combination of speed and quality edges. So, I recommend a drill press... harbor freight got em for about $60. Only way I could see improving on that would be with a lathe -- NOT that it's better for burnishing, but rather that aguycould burnish AND do some other things as well. ANybody know surface speed? Like, if you put a mark on your burnisher at 12:00 position, basically, RPM is the number of times your mark will go by in one minute, and SFPM is the distance that mark "travels" in that minute (so, clearly influenced by the diameter). Example: 600 rpm with a 3/4" dia burnisher is running about 115 sfpm 3400 rpm with a 2" dia burnisher is running about 1800 sfpm, or about 15 times as fast.

You are exactly correct.

Your carving is not so bad as you think... some small changes will make a big difference. And yes -- the figure bevelers are worth having I know it's popular to recommend some y-tube (pronounced 'why-tube') or try to sell you something else, but none of this is necessary. Just don't understand why so many talk about continuing a very old art, then insist on reinventing the wheel So, I could write a page here, maybe link some 'stuff', blahblahblah... OR, I could just point you to an article right on this site where some gal already covered this extremely well

The pressure required is dependent on the length of the cut (bigger dies take more tonnage). Most of us who have these presses would be fine with the 12 ton .. but we got teh 20 because it was the same price (or sometimes less). Not pretty, but true

Thanks Wiz -- informative as usual.

There's a line forming for the bird feeder?@!@#$! Taken from the second floor deck over the back yard ... this guy waiting his turn while his buddy raids the bird seed. Two dogs at the patio door didn't worry him one bit ...

That's why I asked about top thread path. Your needle/thread combos seem about right. On a project I just did, I was able to "smooze" through by 'shortening' the top thread route.. as in wrap around teh tensioner ONCE instead of the twice that would be "normal". First time I've had to do that.. and it was due to the bottom thread pulling up way too much. Problem solved.

IF someone sent you "hermann Oak" (in quotes because you're taking their word for it at that point) that is "fuzzy" -- scratch them off your list of suppliers. Period. I use H.O. all the time, and it is not 'fuzzy'. "B" grade is likely fine for what you're making, as you can cut out the "bits". W/C is also quite good, and I use that regularly as well. Very nice front and back. I do not "finish" the back side with anything.. never been a need to. You can - if you like - buy the leather already "pasted" on the back, though I personally do not.

Depends on where ya go. Mille Lacs -- which is known across the country for walleye -- is no walleye, all year. Closed. I did go check the river (there's a dam just up the road) on opening day, but couldn't shake off all the midget smallmouth bass. "Officially", you can keep 5 or 6 walleye, but only the runts. SD gal knows, fish gotta be 20" to be worth gittin' my knife dirty. Them fit my grill jus' fine. Under 17" (which is allowed), I eat 6 or 7 of those just as a snak while I'm waitin' fer supper ta be ready!

Yup. They don't say that in the brochures, but the reason they got fish up here is cuz there are laws against actually keepin' one here 'n' agin!

What .. yer more a shark person?@!# Alrightey then .... The S/W Shield in .45 - '80/20', black shark accent panel.

Them folks what givya the pricin' is outta lunch. Friendly fella on the phone, though -- even gave me some referral on the boys with the swing arm presses Callin' me back with pricin' after lunch .. 'Preciatecha Ron!

Holster turned out fine, but I really think I need to bite the bullet - pull the trigger - on a new camera. I'd put this one in teh tackle box, but that would only depress me with the reminder how long it's been since I got ta fish! Ahnyhoooo.... check out the 'curved pancake' aka '80/20' holster for the full size 1911 on fakebook ...

Thanks, Bill. From what I'm reading, that hdpe is fine for cutting with a knife, or a small punch. Not sure it has the toughness (durability) to withstand tonnage (prone to crack?). Appreciate the links and info! Sad part is, a plate FOR a clicker press could be on the way right now if they weren't determined to sign me up for something. Cutesy is the same -- they just started offering "guest" checkout, no registering on the site. It's better for me (and preferred, but not 'critical') to sell things NOT on there, but I have seen an increase in the dollar amount of sales since they stopped requiring people to sign up (people come from Google, and spend $100 in stead of $20).

Nah. don't think tha's gonna work. Too soft.. the "board" would "mush" instead of letting the blade cut. Needs to be more firm.. think more along the lines of kitchen cutting board (but not that).

Yeah, it's all part of the "get somebody else to do it for me" attitude that envelops the entire country. Closely related to the "give me your money today and I'll get you something in 8 to 10 weeks" routine. Still haven't found what I want, though. I can get something that looks like it would work, but it would have to be cut down to even fit in the press, and I jsut want a slice - not the whole loaf Oh, note that we get that from "leather people" too.... hour long video "production" to answer a simple question..

Note that sometimes just downsizing teh needle one size can help here ...

I ended up re-routing the top thread a bit to use the poly thread. Not sure I entirely "get" what's going on in there, but it worked, so I'm good (ish). I could see that could become a pain switching back and forth one to the other. But I don't care for that little bobbin case thingie on these anyway... that little screw wouldn't take much to strip out, and it appears that assembly is about &80 (sold as a subassembly?), so not crazy about moving it back and forth regularly.

Where are we getting a quality cutting surface for clicker dies? I've been getting by with cheap stuff... replacing pretty frequently. Today, I do a search, and it takes me to Tippman. So I guess I'll try that, and "add to cart", but - much like many sites - it won't let me see the shipping or expected time frame until after I "register" on the site. They talked themselves out of my business with that - I left. Here's the thing.. I"m just done 'signing up'. Signed up for something at tandy years ago, and still getting crap in the mail and email. Ordered once from cabela's.. got emails until I changed the email address. Went through all that at Weaver, just so they could send me some leather that .. well, let's just say that signing up at Weaver was a waste of time. Like so many others. Seriously.. I just want a cutting board to put under clicker dies that will last a bit without being an investment ...

How are you routing teh top thread?

Well, tha's one way. Other hand, if'n a fella already got the gun in question.. LOTS o holsters made without any pattern at all One day I simply MUST do a video about howta go bout that there..

Anybody else notice a distinct change in tension between nylon and polyester thread? There seem to be some things that LW people like to leave unsaid. Without going into why that is, safe to say that I'm not one of 'em I have tried thread from several suppliers, in both nylon and polyester. And sewing with a piece of cobra, the tension settings need to be changed considerably, even for the same size thread. Now, if you're one of those who hopes to set the tension on a machine and leave it there until you or the machine dies, carry on and pay no attention here. If, on the other hand, you actually want to know how things work, and have found this issue yourself, what did you do about it?/ Worth noting, when I say "same size", I mean the same stated size designation - I haven't put a micrometer to it. I am talking about similar results regardless of the thread supplier, seems consistent between brands

I like a rawhide mallet. But there is something to be said for a tool you are comfortable with. The 'answer' is the same as for that other question - "what is the best lure for walleyes?" It's the one you will use.

Nearly 8 years later, I like a rawhide mallet. 11 oz is nice for tooling ...