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Northmount

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Everything posted by Northmount

  1. @Russojgr Moved your post to Leather Sewing Machines. You'll get more answers and attention here. Also search this forum for more information on clutches and clutch lubrication. Tom
  2. No exaggeration! I'm not really an artist. I can do the mechanics of maybe most tooling, but it just isn't the same. Tom
  3. All I can say is that I can only aspire to do such great work. And my remaining years are probably not long enough to ever get there. Really great work of art. Tom
  4. If you take a look at the post directly above yours, you will find a current link that works. Often worthwhile to look at the later posts in a thread for any updated information. Tom
  5. @FloridaLeatherGirl Are you asking about an edge beveller, or about a stamp? Tom
  6. I can view them but can't download them. Tom
  7. OP's IP address shows up as located near North Bonneville, WA @Any It's a good idea to put your location in your profile. Then people can give you information relative to the area you live in. Tom
  8. I have noticed that too high a top tension does contribute to shredding the thread. So I would look at using a larger needle size to see if you can reduce the top tension, and if you still can't get it down low enough, reduce the bobbin tension. And of course as Wiz says, get the right needle system. Tom
  9. Needle holes look pretty big. As kgg says, need needle and thread information. Tom
  10. See this post. Good stuff in the rest of the thread too. Tom
  11. @BruceEW Please post the photos here. If the photos on imgur are moved, deleted, permissions changed, etc., then this post becomes useless. As you work your way through older posts here, you will find many broken links. We would like to keep these posts/threads intact for the future. Tom
  12. Yes, really slow this morning. It took forever to login and get my list of downloads up so I could finish downloading some files that were still outstanding. Seems to be going well right now. Tom
  13. @Bullhead1 Moved your post from for sale to leather sewing machines since you are not selling a machine. Tom
  14. I am a hoarder! Books, magazines, etc. Used to have stacks of woodworking magazines. Scanned them all and built a database to be able to find articles on any subject. Freed up a lot of shelf space. Now I should be able to dispose of some of my leatherworking print books. Time to build another database! Did you see the Doodle Pages "Doing Hair With a Glovers Needle by D. Somerfield Ferweda (Series 8D Page 1)"? Thought you might be interested in this one. I need to redo my horse head again and see if this technique works for me. Tom
  15. Yes, 984 files! Now how to index all the items so I can find them! Tom
  16. Nice job Stewart! Tom
  17. Welcome to Leatherworker.net. Please resize your photos to fit. See Photos that are hosted on 3rd party sites and linked here will disappear when the host site changes their policies, or disappears. Also when you remove the photos or change access requirements on the host site, they disappear from here. To maintain the continuity and value of posts and threads here, photos need to be posted here. Tom
  18. No glitch! Celebrating Tandy's 100 year anniversary and 100 years since Al Stohlman's birthday. Website is sure slow, but it is working. Server has reset a couple times while I've been putting stuff into my basket and checking it out. It recovered without losing anything. Tom
  19. Should also note that seasonal differences in temperature and humidity will affect how long cased leather takes to dry to the optimal tooling state. So times you figure out for summer may be substantially different in the winter. Tom
  20. Warm should be lukewarm, not hot. Warm water does seem to soak in faster, but the real result you are looking for is to get moisture into the core, let the surface dry to about its natural colour, and the go to work. Wetting the surface and casing are not the same. Casing is allowing the moisture you have added to the leather to equalize throughout the leather. It still has to dry enough to take crisp tooling and to burnish. Test a piece. If you are going for full casing, after you pull it out of the bag or whatever, use the same stamp and stamp it every 15 minutes. Write the time down beside each impression. Keep going until it is obviously too dry, then look back and see which time had the best detail, crisp, and burnished. Then use that information to tool that piece of leather. Another new hide may require different timing. Tom
  21. I've had no trouble with these types of straps. Possibly your strap material is too thin, or poor quality. It looks like maybe the strap was nicked by a sharp item and started to unravel. I had straps on bags that were used to hold electronic vibration monitoring instruments and were used all day long in a dirty and challenging environment. No breakage of the plastic hardware or the straps. When the bag (fabric - canvas like exterior, padding, and a silky smooth lining) got dirty enough, I threw them in the washing machine to clean them up a little. So with all the abuse they suffered, I had no failures. Tom
  22. It's a good idea to put your location in your profile. Helps people that are interested or searching for help, etc. locally. Tom
  23. The top of this article shows the basic parts of a simple sewing machine. Some instruction and parts manuals. The instruction manuals show how to reset the clutch. 111W156manual.pdf 111g156.pdf 111w156.pdf The 111W156 manual seems to be a better copy. W and G signify the locations the machines were built at. Thought this little GIF might help you understand a little how the machine works. Tom
  24. Would be a good idea to pass along the info on your dealer in case someone else in your area is looking for one now, or in the future when they come across this post. Tom
  25. Resize the photo. Should add your location to your profile. Could have put you in touch with a dealer much sooner. Good luck with your machine. Tom
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