Northmount

Any glue/cement that is visible won't dye. So I would dye whatever is visible first. Tom

Here is a link to other old designs. Lots of topics, lots of artists. https://www.oldbookillustrations.com/ Tom

The OP has another thread here too Tom

@fredk I like your idea of gluing the leather to the board before doing any work on it. Good solid base. Tom

A few comments from book 3, pages 466-467 and 534-535 Use a tight grained leather, firm uniform tight-fibered surface A cabinet scraper can be used to take off the looser fibers, down to the firmer leather, use plenty of force, work in all directions Sand the leather in a circular motion, use coarse emery cloth wrapped around a block of wood. Sandpaper deteriorates too fast. Sand forcefully in a circular motion It is best to sand all saddle parts while they are flat rather than after assembly. Only parts that show need to be sanded. Oil, it may look like you are applying too much but it will lighten as it soaks in and evens out Wait 24 hours, sand again On curved surfaces, don't use a sanding block. May need some touch-up during and after assembly. Hope this helps you along with your project. I looked on www.abebooks.com for volume 3, and see they start at about $300 US and go up from there! Tom

I would use vegetable tanned leather, 7 to 8 oz (7/64" to 8/64"). I would do it as a single piece and do a bit of tooling to lay out the lines, then dye the spaces the colours you want. Glue it down to the MDF with a good grade of contact cement. There are various lacquers available for sealing and protecting leather. Clicker dies can be made to order for any shape, but that adds a lot of expense to a one time project. To tool the lines, you dampen the leather, allow it to return to about normal colour, then scribe the lines with a ball-point stylus (not sharp!). Could use an old ball point pen that is definitely out of ink. Various leather dyes are available at Tandy, or Springfield Leather, and other suppliers. I would use spirit based dyes. They must be allowed to dry for about 24 hours and well buffed to prevent smearing when adding the finish. Finish could be sprayed using an air brush. Reduces the chance of smearing. You can research more info on each topic above for more details. Good luck with your project. I've been thinking of making a round pedestal game-board/table for checkers and chess for some time. When I do, I will inlay the leather so its edge is even with the wood. Tom

Photo????

Your photo???

@NVLeatherWorx @Rockoboy Magnets do not affect smart phones or tablets performance. SD cards are not affected by magnetism. Neither is the RAM in the phone. Neither is the CPU. The screens do not use magnetic fields like CRTs and are not affected by magnetic fields. Many smart and older cell phone cases (and tablets covers) include magnets to switch the screen off when the case is closed, and also to activate the screen when taken out of the case. If magnets had the effects that are claimed by those repeating false information, why would the OEMs use magnets in their cases and covers? Several years ago, I was asked to make a replacement case for a Blackberry Phone. I used the original magnets, placed them in the same position as in the OEM case, and it all worked just like the OEM case. I would ask all those that read this to spread correct information rather than repeating proven falsehoods. There is one exception with smart phones ... with GPS sensors (magnetometer, accelerometer, gyroscope). Take a look at this test https://www.kjmagnetics.com/blog.asp?p=smartphone-mount It even shows it not to be a serious problem. Tom

I had a hide that smelled awful. Didn't think I would be able to use it for anything. Scrubbed it with liquid saddle soap, sprayed on, really wet, rinsed it off under running water. Then treated it with oxalic acid. That fixed it so the foul urine like smell was gone and the hide was usable. So try the saddle soap first like battlemunky says and see how it goes. If that doesn't do it, then may oxalic acid, but it will bleach the leather. Tom

His IP address resolves to Brisbane. Tom

Also look at "Russian LeatherCrafting" journal http://www.en.leathercrafting-journal.ru/ Tom

Also available in Canada at BusyBee Tools - 1 ton https://www.busybeetools.com/products/arbor-press-1-ton-b091.html 3 ton - https://www.busybeetools.com/products/arbor-press-3-ton-b093.html Tom

@eflores you should be providing photos of the press as well as per the rules for posting in the market place. http://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/70-announcements/ Also identify your location. China, Australia, Mexico, etc! Tom

Lay it out on a long sheet of paper. You'll be able to visualize it much easier. buckle end of belt of course loops around the buckle bar. Then must extend around the waist to the hook side of the buckle. The distance from the bar on the buckle to the hook might be 2". So if you add up the belt from the bar to the middle hole on the billet, plus the 2" (or what ever the measure from bar to hook is), that will be the waist measurement. Now you can work backwards to make the belt measurement. So measure the girl's waist over clothes where the belt will be worn, deduct the bar to hook measurement, and you will have the belt length from buckle end (folded over) to the middle hole in the billet. For a growing youngster, I would add a couple inches and make that the new middle hole in the billet. If you do a search on this forum, you will find multiple threads with instructions. Tom

Hi @Vugar Moved your post to hardware and accessories. Posts in "Help Wanted" require moderators approval for all posts in the thread. I think you'll get more answers here too. Are the pieces that appear to be like straps metal? If so these could be purse or bag frames that you press together at the ends to bow the sides of the bag outward, opening the bag. Tom

Would be nice to post your findings hear so others can see without having to go research it too. Kind of helps fill out this thread. Tom

Some guys swear that the link belt reduces vibration on their tablesaws. But that belt is really traveling compared to a sewing machine. They are quite handy when you're not sure of the belt size, or for a one size fits all in your shop. But as noted, they are expensive. Tom

If you go to the top right of this thread, there is a button "Follow" with the number of people following this thread. Click on the button and set how often you want to be updated when additional posts are made on this thread. Tom

@Toro Moved to business and estate sales rather than wanted! As in your other post, identify your location (street address and California is rather vague!) and whether you will ship, etc. Tom

@Toro From your IP address it appears you are in the Los Angeles area. Confirm your location and whether you will ship or what. Tom

@McLestergl Add your shipping info or restrictions. Tom

See Bruce Johnson https://brucejohnsonleather.com/leather-tools-sale/rein-rounders-and-lace-cutters-sale/ Tom

@westernsaddler Moved your post to leather sewing machines. You'll get more responses here for sewing machine related issues. Tom

@Skylark53 moved your post to leather sewing machines wher you will likely get more responses or information. Tom