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Northmount

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Everything posted by Northmount

  1. Also available in Canada at BusyBee Tools - 1 ton https://www.busybeetools.com/products/arbor-press-1-ton-b091.html 3 ton - https://www.busybeetools.com/products/arbor-press-3-ton-b093.html Tom
  2. @eflores you should be providing photos of the press as well as per the rules for posting in the market place. http://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/70-announcements/ Also identify your location. China, Australia, Mexico, etc! Tom
  3. Lay it out on a long sheet of paper. You'll be able to visualize it much easier. buckle end of belt of course loops around the buckle bar. Then must extend around the waist to the hook side of the buckle. The distance from the bar on the buckle to the hook might be 2". So if you add up the belt from the bar to the middle hole on the billet, plus the 2" (or what ever the measure from bar to hook is), that will be the waist measurement. Now you can work backwards to make the belt measurement. So measure the girl's waist over clothes where the belt will be worn, deduct the bar to hook measurement, and you will have the belt length from buckle end (folded over) to the middle hole in the billet. For a growing youngster, I would add a couple inches and make that the new middle hole in the billet. If you do a search on this forum, you will find multiple threads with instructions. Tom
  4. Hi @Vugar Moved your post to hardware and accessories. Posts in "Help Wanted" require moderators approval for all posts in the thread. I think you'll get more answers here too. Are the pieces that appear to be like straps metal? If so these could be purse or bag frames that you press together at the ends to bow the sides of the bag outward, opening the bag. Tom
  5. Would be nice to post your findings hear so others can see without having to go research it too. Kind of helps fill out this thread. Tom
  6. Some guys swear that the link belt reduces vibration on their tablesaws. But that belt is really traveling compared to a sewing machine. They are quite handy when you're not sure of the belt size, or for a one size fits all in your shop. But as noted, they are expensive. Tom
  7. If you go to the top right of this thread, there is a button "Follow" with the number of people following this thread. Click on the button and set how often you want to be updated when additional posts are made on this thread. Tom
  8. @Toro Moved to business and estate sales rather than wanted! As in your other post, identify your location (street address and California is rather vague!) and whether you will ship, etc. Tom
  9. @Toro From your IP address it appears you are in the Los Angeles area. Confirm your location and whether you will ship or what. Tom
  10. @McLestergl Add your shipping info or restrictions. Tom
  11. Northmount

    Rein Rounder

    See Bruce Johnson https://brucejohnsonleather.com/leather-tools-sale/rein-rounders-and-lace-cutters-sale/ Tom
  12. @westernsaddler Moved your post to leather sewing machines. You'll get more responses here for sewing machine related issues. Tom
  13. @Skylark53 moved your post to leather sewing machines wher you will likely get more responses or information. Tom
  14. You will find a lot of info about bookbinding at this channel. https://www.youtube.com/user/alexogden49/videos Tom
  15. I only have easy access to Organ needles. There are many other recommendations elsewhere in this forum. Tom
  16. Conical point needles blow out the back of the leather. So yes the right move is leather point 135x16. Tom
  17. Please read the Marketplace Rules and abide by them http://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/70-announcements/ At the very least you should have photos. What type of motor, what have you been using it for, etc. Tom
  18. Use a leather point needle. Looks like yours is a standard conical point. They blow out the back instead of slicing through the leather. Hammer the seam flat after. It will help fix the blowout. Tom
  19. IP address is for Frohna, Missouri @MommaMiia it's a good idea to include your location in your profile so more relevant information can be given that fits your location in this global world we live in. Tom
  20. That sounds like it is more likely than my comment above. Good call. Tom
  21. @lyricsonwings moved your post to leather sewing machines. Tom
  22. It must be a brush type motor and the brushes are vibrating in the brush holder as the commutator turns. Check the brushes are not worn out (too short). If the motor is new, they may wear in and stop squealing. There will be two brushes, one on each side of the motor. Usually a black cap with a screwdriver slot. Don't over tighten or you may break the external part of the brush holder. Tom
  23. When you measure pulley size, use the outside diameter of the pulley. There are 3 parts to pulley size. Width at the top of the groove determines belt width. the other 2 are OD and ID. When calculating pulley ratios, always use the OD of the pulleys. Belts are meant to ride at the top, not down in the bottom. If the pulley is too wide, the belt rides in the bottom and it slips. Comments about clutch motors: They are fine for people that are well experienced using a clutch motor. You have to be able to slip the clutch (like slipping the clutch in a car/truck with a manual transmission when you are starting up from a stop). If you miscalculate, the machine will take off like a jack rabbit. If you want to crawl, you need lots of practice. For Servo motors: To be able to go really slow, like a stitch per second or slower, you need a system that will provide high torque at very slow speeds, especially if you are sewing thick or hard tempered leather. I have a servo with built in gear reduction 3:1. At the lowest speed setting, it didn't have the torque needed to punch through 10 oz. belts at a crawl so I could carefully go around the tip of the billet. I assembled a pulley speed reducer with 2" and 7.5" pulleys. That gives a 3.75:1 speed reduction. That gives me an 11.2:1 overall speed reduction. Actually when you count the servo pulley and the machine pulley as well, it is about 16:1. Only expensive servo motors have high torque at low speeds and can literally step. Typical sewing machine servos lose torque at low speeds. This is true of most all AC motors and even DC motors depending upon their winding configuration. So you need to have enough motor speed to develop the torque required for the job. Thus you need to have either a gear or pulley speed reduction system to do what you want to do. Tom
  24. @aroh99 Moved your post to leather sewing machines. Tom
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