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Northmount

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Everything posted by Northmount

  1. OP is located in Edmonton, AB, Canada according to the IP address. @CourtneyYEG It's a good idea to update your profile with your location so you get information that may be more applicable to your area on this planet. Tom
  2. You can resize photos. Lots of programs and web apps to do that. Reduce the size to 800 x 600 pixels and you can post maybe 100 photos. Tom
  3. Here is a very simple pattern for clip-on sunglasses. Easy project for beginners. Decided to replace a case I made about 20 years ago and have been carrying in my shirt pocket everyday. Copied from a cheapo case. Used some embossed alligator from Tandy, and since I still have some, will just duplicate the last one! I was surprised at how long it lasts with no treatment or care at all. Print the PDF full size, fold in half along the centre line (CL) so it comes out symmetrical! Tom Clip-on Case.pdf
  4. You can link your gallery into your post. Also, instead of hitting the submit button 3 times and getting 3 threads started, give the server time to respond. It could be busy, or your internet connection could be slow/busy. Tom
  5. @whitetail Moved your post to Leather Sewing Machines. You will get more response here. Are you holding onto both threads when you start a line of stitching? Tom
  6. You can reduce the file size to 800 x 600 pixels and be able to load lots of pics. This is a clutch motor on your Adler. Pressing on the pedal engages the clutch. To run at slow speeds, you will have to learn how to slip the clutch. Tom
  7. Really great work. As with your other portraits, colouring will not spoil it! Tom
  8. You lose all the advantages of a servo by making it an on/off control. There is a post somewhere here where a person is using a hand cable control similar to bicycle brakes or motorcycle throttle. A system where you can adjust the speed and lock it at that speed might be handy. And a quick release. Try a Google search such as site:leatherworker.net sewing machine servo hand control and see what you get. You can modify the search parameters to use words that you feel might get better or different results. Found this one Tom
  9. There are a few posts about using a vacuum setup to collect the waste, along with some photos. Try a Google search for them. site:leatherworker.net bell skiver vacuum Tom
  10. I've had people sniff a new article that was finished with neat lac. Then tell me how much the love the smell of leather! All they are smelling is the lacquer fumes! Maybe it reminds them of sniffing glue. Tom
  11. Keep the humidity around 50%. Too high will go moldy, too low dries out the leather. Tom
  12. @Googledave I moved your post to Leather Sewing Machines. You'll get more answers here than in How Do I Do That. Tom
  13. I've been able to maintain the top thread and switch the bobbin. I go back a couple inches, pull the bottom thread back (pick it out) so I have a couple inches loose. Put the bobbin in and pull the thread up through the needle plate, pull the top thread back to the spool, line up the needle and continue sewing. No break in the top thread, and enough thread on the bottom to be able to tie and super glue or burn it off. It's a bit of a hassle, but no double stitch shows on the top and I can hide the bottom join. Tom
  14. Whether you soak the leather or not (as above), moisture has to work its way into the core, not just on the surface. If you have seen any videos or workshops with Jim Linnell, he doesn't soak the leather. He applies quite a bit to the surface the first time, using a sponge, then lets it sit and soak in for a while. He may apply some to the back if it is heavier leather and of course not glued to poster board, or taped. Then when the colour returns to near normal, he begins his cutting and tooling. If the leather is starting to dry out too much and doesn't produce a nice burnish while tooling, he will moisten the leather very lightly in the area he is tooling. It is faster than soaking the leather and waiting for it to dry enough to start working with. Tom
  15. IP address resolves to Venezuela. OP has last visited this site on last Saturday. Has only made this one post. Tom
  16. That brazing job was less than adequate! Need to get full penetration of the bronze into the complete joint. Only way I know to do that is proper preparation. Grind the parts, at least one side of the break to form a vee that you can then get bronze right down into the joint. Tom
  17. Reduce your file size to about 800 x 600 pixels and you can post 100 or so photos in a single post. Lots of photo resizers out there on the web. Do a quick search here or on Google and you will find many options of how to do it. Tom
  18. I think mine are S type. Depends somewhat on what your suppliers have available. Away from the shop for a few days! Tom
  19. It will improve the back a lot. But it will never look as good as the top side. Hammering the stitch line with a smooth hammer will also help a little. Tom
  20. Are you using leather point needles? They slice and don't blow out the back so much. Tom
  21. Has he used leather for holding the battery in before? Reason I ask is that there is always a little acid around most batteries (lead acid) unless they are really sealed well. The acid will degrade the leather fairly quickly. Tom
  22. Manuals are readily available online as well as videos for your specific machine. https://www.google.com/search?q=consew+226+manual&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8 Tom
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