electrathon

Price you are asking could have a great impact on interest. I am interested, maybe. Aaron

When i saw you first post about this the other day I was pondering the durability of the cutting edge. After I though about it I realized that the stainless in the kitchen knife was likely far more durable than the Tandy tool edge. This is a good idea.

post what it sells for

Goat is very nice leather. Steven Segal has it. It is used in book binding.

It is surprising how many people do not know about this punch.

http://www.tandyleat...ts/3229-00.aspx

Punch smaller holes and the thread will stay tight.

I am from Alaska and I understood it. LOL

Just a thought. Mouse pads are for the purpose of making a roller ball mouse stick properly to a desk. Now days the mouse uses a laser and there is no longer a purpose to have the pad below it. The only exception I know to this is if you are using a mouse on a clear glass table, then there is no surface for the laser to bounce on.

I agree. The color pulled the imperfections that were already there.

I am a tool guy, so I buy a lot of cool looking tools when I see them. I bought it and used it a little, never really felt right to me. If you are not used to carving maybe it would feel more normal. It is well made, still in new condition. I have it in my box, just never use it. If I am remembering correct (someone please correct me if I am wrong) these sold for $125. If you want it, you can have it for $100 I pay shipping.

I don't grove, just push in a line. I use a pricking iron from goodsjapan for spacing and poking. A two prong iron really helps turn coners. I don't use an overstitch wheel, to hard to control with precision.

Just went and looked. One size up from the smallest one and the two up from there. The smallest one is really small.

Hmm, Barry does not number his tools. All of mine are from him, the three smallest ones he has in the set. An undecut beveler really works awsome on the really tight turnbacks.

I have not heard if they went under. If you can not get a new knife from them I would be willing to sell mine. It is as close to new as is possible. Aaron

I have 6 beveler widths in my tool set. I use the smaller, narrower ones the most. Usually when tooling I have the 3 smallest ones on my stone, swapping back and forth depending on the area of the carving.

First, I apolagize to papaw for the thread being steared in a poor direction. When I saw the above responce I was not going to respond, then I read it and saw the question directly too me. I will respond again, but this is the final time here in this thread. You want a knife to be very sharp because sharp knives cut better than sort of sharp ones. Sort of sharp ones cut better then dull ones, and so on. Every decent knife manufacture does ship their knife "that way". Low end knives are hard to sharpen well, so they tend to be left only sort of sharp. Barry King knives can do it, try a new blade on the edge of your leather. It surprised me the first time I saw this, but it is a great quick test to see if your knife is sharp, or if someone is taking the edge off from improperly stroping. If you want to learn how to get your knife that sharp, show up to Tandy in Portland OR for leather work days (every other Saturday). Either Michael or I will show you how to do it. As you said, in your opinion, your knife does not need to be "so sharp". As I said, I have heard people actually tell people that before. Bottom line is that sharp trumps dull. If your hands hurt, not having to press as hard to compensate for a dull knife makes life easier.

I wonder if a lined wallet is enough. The edges would be opened on three sides.

How come I can not see any atitching holdig your wallets togeather?

Me? I think it is a pretty good stretch to deform my comment into anything judgmental. I see people all the time with dull knives trying to carve. Often times you show them that it is dull and the difference to a sharp knife (yes, mine is sharp, you can skive with it) and they just shrug their shoulders and tell you they do not know anything about sharpening so it is what it is. I have attended classes where the instructor did not know how to sharpen so he was telling people that it is not good for your knife to be "too sharp" because you would not be able to control your cutting. I see many people trying to carve with low quality blades that fight and struggle trying to carve or sharpen it. I also have sharpened blades for numerous people. Taught many how to sharpen too. Papaw is to be commended on stepping up to a nice, well working knife.

It is likely contact cement. It does have a strong solvent off gas. Some people are more sensitive to it than others, but it is likely good to avoid it as much as you can.

It amazes my how many people try to carve with a dull knife.

My opinions are: You are using too thick of leather, Thin at least 1 oz from both the inside and the outside. If you do not want to thin it, then you need to skive the edges. If you really want them that thick, I would punch through the main outer layers first, then glue it up, then finish your punch holes. Sometimes wax or saddle soap on the punch helps, poke it in the bar every time you punch new holes. Polish out your prongs on the punch, it will help it slide. Using your punch to punch holes works fine as long as you can get it in and back out. They did not do it that way long ago, but that does not mean it is wrong to learn a new or better way than it used to be done. Aaron

It is not you, it is the forum software. Click on the little box in the top left corner of tho box (in the blue area) and you will be able to create paragraphs.

I am pretty sure Fiebings still makes them, Tandy is just not selling them.