Constabulary

Depends on what parts you need. Some may work others wont. But don´t expect to find too many parts. The parts I found was just trial and error - I just bought them to find out if they work or not. I also swapped out the needle bar and foot bar so my machine now can use common needles like 135x17 and the common Singer type feet (check my above linked thread for that). I also installed a "foreign" brand hook so I can use the bobbins of my 111G156 machine. But I have a single needle machine and yours is a double needle machine - thats a different story (at least partially).

depends on what gunk you have there, I´d scrape it off and I´m usually using paint thinner for cleaning off the reaming gunk.

In case you will order it - keep in mind you have to pay import taxes and then 19% Einfuhrumsatzsteuer on top. If the machine goes with DHL standard you probably have to make a trip to your local customs office (which is maybe close to you or maybe 100km away - check that on Zoll.de or call them) to provide your payment details. If they ship with DHL Express or UPS you most likely have to pay your duties on delivery at your door. DHL Express and UPS (or other forwarding companies) may charge some fees as well for handling your package (meaning doing the customs work).

Space aside - have you considered machines like the CB-3200 with reverse, speed reducer and motor? Costs more but for sure is a lot more comfortable. Before you buy a hand crank machine I´d test both the motor driven machine and the hand cracked machines (if possible). I have tried treadle machine > I don´t like it! I have tried hand crank machines > I don´t like it! And I have tried motor driven machines with speed reducer > I like it a lot. But thats just me. So before you pull the trigger better test the machines to see which one you prefer - honestly!

I´m pretty sure Cobra and Cowboy 8810 are the same machine. If you need reverse you can have it optional. It´s the CB-8810R then - check the Toledo website at the lower right end. Never underestimate the advantage of having a dealer locally.

Electronic bells and whistles can safe money in mass production and can make things (sewing) more comfortable as long as they properly work. So it depends on your output and how comfortable you like it. But as chrisash said these bells and whistles can turn into a money pit when they go faulty after a few... years? If they last - great - if not it´ll be expensive. Since you are in Ohio - why not checking with Toledo Sewing Machines so you have a local dealer who can help you https://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb8810.html

Here is another file Singer 52w.pdf

Looks similar to Singer 52w (very early model made from Wheeler & Wilson parts) but I do not know the subclass. I have attached manual for a 52w100 which seems to be close but there may be some minor differences. The manual came from another LW member just recently. A while ago I have restored a 51w single needle machine which is very similar to yours. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/86292-singer-51w-sv-2-post-bed-machine-restoration/ EDIT: Just noticed you posted in the above thread already. Singer 51w100 and 52w100 - instructions for using and adjusting.pdf

Maybe you like to post some pictures of the front and back side to show the details of either machine for future reference. Picture often tell more than a thousand words.

The 29K71 is almost identical. There are just minor differences. The majority of 29K71 parts will work for the 29K58.

Don, my original idea (or brain fart) was this thingy here which goes into single phase table saws: https://www.ebay.de/itm/Vollmetall-Sanftanlauf-Anlaufwiderstand-12A-mit-Osen-Softstart-Soft-Start/143616841340 I´m not really following the idea for my sewing servo cause I have no need but it just popped up in my head so I asked. You never know.

I do not know this machine in particular but Sunstar is a known Korean Brand. It appears to be based on the Singer 212G141 or similar but with different stitch length adjuster. I´m quite confident that the Sun Star is using the the same gauge parts (for different needle distances) as the Singer 212. I own a 212G141 and when I look at the parts list & user manual (can be found online) I see many similarities. Hooks and bobbins can be found online and are for sure the same as for other Singer based double needle machines. I have converted my 212G141 to a "split needle machine" - maybe you are interested in it. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/80209-singer-212-112-double-needle-converting-into-split-needle/?tab=comments#comment-535703 You can us it as 1 needle machine by just removing 1 needle and the bobbin. But there are no special "single needle feet for double needle machines". You either have to modify a double needle foot for your needs or just use the double needle foot as is. But the 2nd hooks is always spinning you cannot turn it off. I would not worry buying the machine if it technically suits your needs. When you go and look at it check if forward and reverse stitch length are matching, check the condition of the timing belt and if the foot lift suits your needs. I don´t know Refrey machine but by just looking at it it appears to be some kind of clone of Pfaff or Juki machines.

Was just a wild idea... if you don´t ask you will not know the answer Maybe a brain fart.

I think I have one... Let me check. A while ago I have restored a Dürkopp Class 18 patcher machine but I no longer own it. EDIT: Just notices the doc files - the link goes to my machine

I know - I have speed reducers on all my machines. I want to add a soft start to my table saw so this just popped up in my head... just an idea... don´t know if it is possible at all.

Just a tinkering idea.... I´m not an electrician so I wonder if it possible to add a soft start module (as on table saws) to our sewing machine servos. Will it improve the comfort and does it make sense at all?

The Class 17 has a fairly small pulley on the hand wheel. So when installing a servo you should install a 40-50mm pulley (the smaller the better) on the motor shaft and I would even consider a speed reducer. Most servos start at 200rpm and when you have a 50mm pulley on the servo and lets say a 70mm pulley (I guess) on the hand wheel your machine still runs at approx 140rpm at slowest speed. Ant it would be even more the larger the motor pulley is. Thats why I would consider a speed reducer (DIY or bought off the shelf). If it was my machine I would install the speed reducer where the clutch system is mounted and the servo where the current motor is mounted. I would even keep the original table plate cause it looks quite nice. I would clean it or grind off the surface and either oil it or apply a clear varnish. My 2 cents

On my end they often sell between 800€ and 1200€ w. motor and table in good used condition so when $460 is USD then its approx 385€ - thats less than half the lower end price! You can be sure - that offer would not last a day on Ebay or classifieds.

ha ha - bargain - buy it!

Hope you have not brazed the wedge of the inside of the squared frame. Same with the wedge on the small gib that goes into the frame. You need the wedges for proper foot movement. Also make sure you install the frame and gib correctly (see attached pictures). If you install them incorrectly your stitch length will suffer. Be careful with modern 29K parts - there were a lot of changes between your 29 and the latest model 29K71 - only a few parts of the nowadays 29K clones fit for the century old 29. Ford F-100 parts of the 1st generation cannot be replaced with Ford F-100 parts of the 13th generation, some screws may work but thats it. Pretty much the same with your 29 model and the nowadays 29K71 clones. Only because its a Singer 29 model does not mean all parts work for all machines! Do you have a parts number of your 29 needle bar? I may have an original Singer needle bar.

it´s a binding machine so go ahead and check the foot lift and test sew it that will tell you the true story. You never know if a used industrial machine has been altered or not. The data plate shows the setup the machine has left the factory with (in best case) but not if someone did some technical alterations over the years (or decades). Industrial sewing machines can be set up for dozens of different sewing operations w/o showing the actual setup on the tag. You know what I mean? Test sewing the machine is always the best bet Maybe this list will help you a little bit. Pfaff 335 H3 Subclass Old Casting.pdf

Haven´t tried it w/o the spring but a lot of sewing machine (Pfaff, Adler...) with triple feed DO NOT have this screw so I´m quite confident it works w/o the screw.

spare springs & screw or complete bobbin cases should be available. Check the parts list - google the part numbers or check with an industrial sewing machine dealer.

Solve the bottom tension problem first. It may bother you in the future again so better get it done soon.Try to apply some heat to the tension spring + screw and try again. If you have problems reaching the tension screw then remove the bobbin case from the hook. Maybe there is dirt under the spring or spring is worn... just check it. Maybe buy a new bobbin case if you can´t remove the tension spring (check parts number on bobbin case) or the screws are messed up. For removing bobbin case see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zvEsOKqdPZ4

No manual? First hit on Google delivers an Engineer manual for the machine http://www.pennsewparts.com/images/LUH-521%20EM.pdf You have a 2 needle machine - so one hook has to rotated the other direction.