shtoink

Very predatory...

Very impressive! I love the results.

You'll want something that has a decent corrosion resistance. This is probably overkill, but I was thinking in the long term and you might now know what kind of stuff it'll be exposed to over its life.

It might be the tool, it might be technique. I personally haven't done any, but there have been other that have given some tips and helps in the forum. I was able to dig up a couple videos that are on leather pyrography, I hope this is enough to get your pointed in the right direction despite my lack of personal experience on the topic.

I have to agree with Cheryl, coloring book images are possibly your best source. I had mentioned it a while back about Dover Coloring Books in a thread over here... Coloring books are an excellent source for patterns as they have done most of the work by converting it to line drawings already, but my personal favorites are the ones from Dover. The quality is top notch and the selection is mind-bogglingly wide. I did a quick search through their page and found these listing pages for Penguins and Pandas... Penguins: http://store.doverpublications.com/0486298930.html http://store.doverpublications.com/0486447960.html Pandas: http://store.doverpublications.com/048645696x.html http://store.doverpublications.com/0486277356.html http://store.doverpublications.com/0486254763.html http://store.doverpublications.com/0486467937.html The other option is to use Google Image Search for Penguins and Pandas. Separately, of course. I hope this helps.

I haven't run across very many custom tools from the few bundles that I have purchased in the past, but I do have a couple. The two on the left are made from some sort of aluminum rod and were apparently made by the father of the guy that I purchased them from at a garage sale. The one on the far right is a stylus that I am pretty sure my Grandfather made at some point because he either didn't have one at the time or felt that he could do better. I also ran across a blog by a gentleman located in Singapore that has put together quite a collection of custom, homemade tools for himself. He has some very cool looking mauls, a forming die for making bottle caps into decorations, and even a spork that has been turned into a thonging chisel. I only mention this guy's blog, because it really exemplifies that you are only limited by imagination and some basic stuff to work with. Truly the heart of DIY right there.

I saw another member here use a metal rod and sewed alternating tabs over the rod to create a hinge. The tabs were extensions from along the edges that the hinge was to be. A chunk of stainless steel might do the trick. Not sure if this will help you, but at least it gives you an alternative.

Neodymium magnets might save you some hassle with the tab. They are available in an insane variety of sizes. The cool part is that you would really only need one magnet and a small metal disk. These could even be scavenged from some other source. I've seen them used to hold the tab closed on the box that some fancy soap comes in, so it seems very plausible. The thin metal disk would get placed in between two thinner layers for the tab and the magnet would be embedded behind the leather in the cardboard, or plastic, layer of the cover. I'd also think that the pen/pencil holder might be nicer if it were placed vertically along the spine where the fold is. I always felt it interfered with the feel and was too easy for it to fall out placed where it is on the one you are using as a model. It also seems to leave dents in the paper, too. That's just WRONG!

I hope there was a second armrest added to the other side, or was that what those straps are for in the first image? At first glance, they looked like the beginnings of a 5 point harness for a seatbelt system. I thought that might have been a bit extreme for a recliner.

My tool collection started out as an inheritance from my Grandfather. I have added to it here and there since, but that is where most of it came from. Amongst this collection were what you'd typically find in an old collection. Lots of punches, lots of leftover things, and all sorts of similar items, but the thing I wanted to share with you guys was the swivel knives he had made back in the early to mid 50's. I never got much detail from him as to exactly when he made them, but judging from the other things I had seen him make, these must have been pretty early in his career as a machinist. They are far from fancy, but they are functional and the simplicity is what I find most interesting. As far as comfort goes, they have their issues. I feel that sharing them might inspire others to maybe do something similar for themselves. Sometimes the tool you make might not be as nice or a well polished as the expensive variety made commercially, but they seem to carry more sentiment because it was something you made. I think that is one of the biggest reasons behind a lot of us enjoying the work done with leather. I hope you all enjoy the show-and-tell and might consider sharing tools that you, or someone close to you, made for whatever the reason might be. Also, I started this one, because I didn't want to hijack anyone else's thread.

I must commend you on a very unique approach. Aside from wanting a bit thicker material for your blade and something other than plastic, how are you liking it? I'm not sure about places outside the U.S., but sourcing bearings from a shop that specializes in RC cars, boats, and such is a good place to start. It could allow for more flexibility in the size of your yoke, if you wish. I have talked to a few that are local for me and purchased new bearings for pretty cheap. I imagine that you might be able to talk someone out of their used bearings that are too worn for racing, but that's a never a guarantee. I'll agree that the aluminum craft knives might yield a sturdier knife, but the method you used for the plastic handle might not work as well. I'm only referring to the cutting, drilling, and tapping threads into the aluminum as the rest of your process would be largely unchanged. I can't help but wonder if drilling a hole into the jaws for holding the blade might allow it to clamp and hold a standard swivel knife blade. This whole thing is intriguing and thank you for sharing it with us.

Is it difficult to draw the arrows from the quiver with it being straight up and down like that? It was my understanding that a forward angle aiding in being able to draw or return the arrows a bit easier. For 3D shooting, this probably isn't an issue, but if you were to make one for hunting, you'll want to look into making one that angles backwards to prevent being snagged by brush and branches.

For storing the spare tips, it depends on the number of blades they have as to which design. If they are essentially flat, with two cutting edges, then you have a bit more flexibility. If they are going to have three or four cutting edges, have bleeder blades, or some other configuration, it starts to get a bit more specific. The flat ones can have individual pockets for them to slide into for protection, but a block of foam is more typical for the other styles. Maybe your friend needs to provide you with a bit more information so you can have a more complete picture. For placing them into the quiver with the hunting tips, something will certainly be needed to protect the inside. My experience is with bullet and field points as I mostly do target shooting with my kids. Now that I think if it, I don't even have any hunting tips, which puts me in the same boat as you for knowledge about what to use for lining the inside. I do know that some type of fur around the opening has been used to help keep the arrows from rattling around when moving, though. If you have access to a Tandy, the strips of wool they sell for smearing dye around with would work well for that and a package of it is fairly inexpensive.

No kidding... I'd hate to think that something heath related is going on with him. Anyone have a good way to get a hold of him outside of email?

I must be super cheap to only buy at the $1.00 to $1.50 range, then...

Wasn't there a special holder that was meant to clasp on to multiple X-Acto blades that was designed to fit a standard swivel knife? I thought that I have seen pictures of one before, but no clue where, if it was something homemade, or a product that never really caught on. I also recall seeing a swivel knife that had been modified to hold several X-Acto blades, too. The one thing that always had me confused was how one is supposed to (re)sharpen a hair blade. It seems such a waste to be stuck with a dull one that performs poorly and no easy way to rectify it.

It's fantastic! The attention to detail is impeccable and I really love the simplicity. At first, I thought it was for a camera lens. That is until I started to read your description. I can appreciate the large hands thing. I, too, suffer from Bear-Paw-itis. When doing laundry, I am unable to turn my 11 year old daughter's pants right side out because my hand and forearm won't fit down the leg hole to do so. Funny thing is, I'm not really tall, either. An average 5'11" or so. I kinda makes me feel like this guy...

I'm not sure if there are any commercially made swivel knives geared towards kids, but there ought to be... It will probably need to be something custom made. Not impossible, bot also not free, in most cases. It might also be possible to hack one together yourself that's scaled down for little hands to use depending upon your skills and such. I hope that doesn't sound insulting, as I do not want to make any assumptions of your skills and/or background. A scaled down swivel knife is something I have on my to-do list, however I still have a couple minor design challenges to overcome on the full scale one that I am still unhappy with before that point. One other question, though. Is it a matter of the barrel diameter, overall length, texture of the grip, or anything else that is the biggest issue with her being able to use your swivel knife? Also, what kind of swivel knife is it that she used? (Generic Tandy that is adjustable/non-adjustable or something else maybe?) I apologize if that is a lot to chew on. It just got my gears turning and I was thinking while typing. The reason I ask all of that, is that one of my full scale knives can be made in a shorter version, if the diameter of the one being used is not that big of a deal. It might even be easier for her small hands if the diameter was kept the same and only the length was changed, which IS something my current design allows. I have another person in here testing out that exact type of swivel knife for that very reason and they absolutely love it. I have big hands, but there are some who would have a difficult time using a knife sized for my big paws, so a shorter version was mandatory. Long story short, if the barrel of the knife can be between 0.5" and 0.6", then a shorter knife that still has some reasonable length adjustment to grow with would be very doable.

High fives, Brah! Though, that design does look familiar for some reason...

I had trouble with the very same style of skiver that was purchased from Tandy. It had left over nubs from where the sprue was during casting that should have been machined off. They were not and interfered with the blade sitting properly. I had to reshape nearly the entire area where the blade sits and the opposing clamp in order to get it hold the blade. It was a giant pain and about my only option since they wouldn't take it back and all the other skivers on the wall suffered the same issue. Glad to see that you were able to get it fixed and working, though.

Not sure if I am too late to this, but I thought that would at least make the offer. Would you be willing to let me rework the blade for you? I have had success making these new ceramics cut much nicer. I also outlined a DIY method for doing exactly that without spending fortune on equipment, too. Hopefully you can see what I am talking about in the pictures that I have in there. The primary issue is, these new ceramic blades are not polished in any way after grinding the bevels and it leaves them rough and ready to grab at everything you try to cut. It takes a little elbow grease, but the results are a very smooth and shiny bevel with an edge that'll shave.

I'm really enjoying the simplicity of the design. I'm more of a utilitarian kind of guy in many ways, so this one seems a bit more kindred to me.

I completely forgot about Apoxie Sculpt. I remember reading about it after running across a guy's blog that builds custom props and such. It does get very hard and is easily reshaped through the usual mechanical means. i.e. sanding, cutting, filing, and so on...

Wish I had the spare cash and space to get one of those. I'm not sure I would call it white, though. It looks more of an bone, eggshell, light taupe, beige, or maybe even an ecru.

Sounds sort of like this stuff called Sugru... I know that Sugru has been mentioned in the forum before as well as many other places. I have yet to try it personally, but the common response seems to be overwhelmingly positive.