silverwingit

Wet-formed leather stiffens. That's how many makers stiffen their armor. Veg-tanned leather from 5-6 oz. up will stiffen so that you can rap it with your knuckle. Search for wet-forming here or on Youtube. Or, you can buy sole leather. It's stiff and tough as nails. You know that because you probably have some on some of your shoes. I don't know if it is wet-formable into arbitrary shapes, so your answer is likely application-dependent. Michelle

This green Asian-made press pops up in different spots (puns... tsk, tsk). Arthur Porter (Youtube) used to have several videos about it but he apparently has taken them down for a reason unknown to me. I do know from my own research that there is one hitch with this and similar presses made in metric-based countries. That is that standard Imperial-based snaps, rivets, spots, etc. won't fit with this machine. You are therefore constrained to buying the metric fittings from this or other independent vendors [bTW I have no experience with this Etsy vendor, but s/he does seem to have a good track record. Again, I've seen this press on ebay, AliBaba and other outlets. They come and go so let the buyer beware and make sure you do your due diligence.] The upside is that the press itself and the dies that fit it are vastly more affordable than the Tandy one. The bottom line for me was that the ready availability and my own large inventory of US-made snaps, rivets, etc. (Ohio Travel Bag, Tandy) tipped the scale so I ended up with a Tandy press. Michelle https://www.etsy.com/shop/MinkusMargo?ref=l2-shopheader-name

Personally, I'd be worried about the grit in BKF either abrading the finished leather's surface or physically removing the tanner's oils, etc. Unless it's so grimy that you need that abrasive effect, I'd use oxalic acid. It's inexpensive and readily available (e.g., Amazon). Michelle

Ah, er, I was watching for someone to comment on the use of a standard claw hammer, or any other hardened metal hammer to strike the punch and setting tools. That's asking for trouble in the form of ruined tools at best or at worst, high-speed flying steel shrapnel from a shattered tool or hammer face. You don't want to take that in the eye! Much better to use a dead fall hammer if you're looking for something from any hardware store or an actual leatherworker's rawhide mallet, or my personal preference, a good heavy maul. Have fun with your leatherwork but BE SAFE! Michelle

Simply jaw-dropping! Sets a new standard for mini-saddle bags and messenger-style bags in general. Thanks for sharing. Michelle

I use a stropped utility knife (heavy leather) or rotary knife (light leather) against a straight edge for straight cuts and a stropped head knife or scissors for curved or freehand cuts (heavy and light leather, respectively). I also use a scratch awl to mark cuts for its accuracy and tendency to "guide" the knife blade. Good lighting is essential and magnification can aid my aging eyesight. Michelle

I am perfectly happy with my 1 lb. MaulMaster maul (Weaver Leather) for tooling and a 2-lb. no-name leather-handled cylindrical poly maul for heavier work like punching holes and setting rivets and snaps where my hand press won't fit. The Maulmaster has a rubber handle that I really like and it didn't break the bank. Its poly inserts are a snap to replace. If I were to buy another maul, it would be a Maulmaster. Can't go wrong with anything Barry King, though. Michelle

addieliegh, you gotta be joshin' us! That simply cannot be your first attempt at anything beyond a coin purse. Very nice work. I can't wait to see your 3rd project! Michelle

You might try wet molding your new keeper to a nice rectangular shape. The 90 degree corners will conform to the shape of the belt and it will look much sharper. Michelle

I am not on welfare, never have been. Paid my way my whole life and proud of it. But I found that comment about welfare recipients to be unnecessary, in poor taste and highly offensive. In my opinion, such ill-informed class judgments have no place on such an otherwise constructive forum as leatherworker.net. Michelle

You're right, Rockler, not Rockwell. Thanks! For some reason I am unable to cut and paste links in my leatherworker.net replies or I would have done so. Michelle

Instead of a bigger knob you might consider a cam clamp like one from Rockwell. (Google "Rockwell cam clamp"). I won't go back to a knob again. This tightens the jaws tight with a flick of the lever and is far less likely to catch the thread, especially if you turn the lever facing up. They come 2 to a pack. Michelle

Looks like a simple "cross" stitch as used in covering a steering wheel. Search Youtube for "cross stitch leather." (For whatever reason, this editor won't allow me to post the link... ) Michelle

I bow to Kid and anyone else who can skive a large area evenly! I'm sorry to say that after ruining a good amount of leather, I bit the bullet and bought a Heritage splitter/skiver. Costly but effective solution if you plan on doing much of this. Michelle

Colt, that is some absolutely stunning work! Thanks for sharing it. It is inspiring me to try painting leather, something I wouldn't have otherwise thought of. Michelle

I also use wooden molds/bucks. I find it helpful to preheat the molds in my kitchen oven before I put the Kydex in to heat. That way the Kydex doesn't seize up and fight going into sharp corners the instant you put it inside a cold mold. I get a nice piney smell in the kitchen but my molds have gone through many a cycle without significant damage. Might help. Michelle

Depending on the leather you are working with, it might help to skive the edges a bit before sewing. Michelle

Looks nice but I would worry about the durability of a belt made like that. How long before the customer returns it for repairs? Michelle

Nice! How would one attach a maker's mark to the heat block? Are there controls for the heat level? Cord's waay to short. Thanks, Michelle

I have a Watt edger and it is a fine tool, just a size I don't use. I don't have any experience with Gomph edgers. I will say that I love my set of Barry Kings. Michelle

Thanks to a suggestion from forum member Chuck Burrows (Wild Rose Trading Co.) I use secretary's rubber finger tips found at any office supply store. They work great to protect fingers and provide a positive grip on the needles. Michelle

Start with all of Al Stohlman's books. Michelle

Good idea on the tool, Chief! (No surprise. ) Can you describe it or sow us a picture? Thanks (again), Michelle

+1 for Al Bane's videos. Extremely helpful! Michelle

Oh, and I see congratulations are in order. Electrathon, you have surpassed 2.500 posts! And they are always packed with useful information based on tons of experience. Allow me to thank you on behalf of the entire forum! Michelle