snubbyfan

Those are nice, interesting inlay work.

That's some nice lookin' stuff you got there.

Lookin' forward to seein' it. There's so much leatherworking talent here and on other forums, I'm just trying my best to get somewhere in the same neighborhood of being in their league. Since I can't do the fancy carvin', I pay extra attention the little details.

I'll go this high and only if it's going to be carried on a proper belt.

There was something, I stared at it for a while and I think I got it figgered out. It's the basketweave. I like to overlap my stamping. I feel it helps to tighten up the pattern a little. I'm lookin' forward to seein' the holster finished.

Now that the gun's in it. It looks pretty good. But. Just a couple of personal things about fit and cut. It looks like the rear sight's resting on the holster, I try to cut 'em so they're a little bit clear of the rear sight. The cut of the upper resembles a traditional Mexican Loop holster. This isn't one of mine, it was made by a member of a gun forum I frequent. He's also on this forum but hasn't posted much. He did a beautiful job on this holster but had to reduce the price way below what it's worth to get it to sell. Notice that the cylinder's covered but it's cut down exposing the trigger. It's a traditional design for the Mexican Loop. Personally, I prefer to keep the trigger completely covered. This is one of mine. I just figure it'll help to keep a persons finger off the trigger until ready to shoot. Guns can be deadly and I take great care in my holster designs with safety, secure retention and end use in mind. But they still gotta look good.

A few weeks? Wow, that's beautiful! I'm lookin' forward to seein' what you come up with after a few years.

I have a degenerative peripheral motor nerve condition and I can't maneuver a needle and a stitching awl at the same time. I make all the stitching holes ahead of time. First I'll either mark or groove them depending on what I consider appropriate. Then I'll mark the stitch holes with a pricking iron by puttin' it on the line and givin' it a good whack with a mallet. Then open the holes with a stitching awl.

I've gone to using pricking irons myself. Just put 'em on the stitch line and whack it with a mallet. You can use 'em either with or without a stitch groove. Then open the holes with a stitchin' awl. Generally, I glue the pieces then punch the holes.

Now that's the way to start off a new year, good job.

It's a nice lookin' holster. The stitch lines are straight, the color's good and the design allows a full grip before unholstering. I agree that the stitch lines would look better parallel and to me the bottom would look better either stitched or trimmed. I personally prefer an open bottom holster.

Yup, sellin' the stuff somebody wants helps me to afford what I want.

I'm with the Neatsfoot guys, a little dab'll do ya.

Oh yeah that darned commute out to the shop. First I gotta get out of bed and walk the whole 25 feet then sit at my bench. I just don't see how I can keep it up day in and day out...

I make double layer gun belts. It's not really just lined but two full thickness belts glued and stitched together back to back. After cutting the straps, I lay one aside then cut, slot, punch and skive the buckle end and cut it to finished length. Then I'll make the belt keeper. I'll lay out where the inner layer'll end on the buckle end then I'll predye the seam. The end of the inner layer gets skived, beveled, predyed and burnished where it meets the outer layer. This gives it a smoother transition where it attaches to the outer layer. Then the two straps get glued together back to back. I'll lay out the stitch lines and do any tooling after the glue dries. Tooling after the two straps are glued together prevents the top strap from distorting. After the tooling's done I'll poke the stitch holes by marking them with a pricking iron then making the holes with a stitching awl. Also I'll make the adjustment holes with an oval punch and cut the inner layer to match the outer layer. Then it's time to bevel the edges and dye the belt. Burnish the edges and buff the belt but don't finish coat yet. Sit back, relax and get ready to spend 6 hours or so hand stitching. After the stitchin's done, then it's time to do the finishing work.

It's Happy the New Years Penguin!

Makes me think of a rifle sling I made once. Customer wanted it unfinished, no dye, no top coat, no tooling, just a plain leather strap with raw edges. I was happy to get that thing out of my house. I did manage to give it a little flash with a solid brass polished harness buckle.

On a lark I made a blue jean inspired holster for a S&W J frame snubby. Somebody saw it and sent me a check for one like it to fit a S&W 3" L frame. The interestin' part is that I'm intentionally trying to make the color splotchy and streaky to simulate faded denim. I've always prided myself on my even dye jobs. And now I'm intentionally trying to mess one up.

That's very nice, especially considering it's only your 3rd or 4th project. There's a couple of things I noticed. First, close up the gap on the border of the basketweave stamp. Also, beveling your edges before burnishing, gives them a nice finished look. I do like that black welt, nice detail.

You should be proud, he did a fine job. Nice stitch line and dye job.

Thanks Rohn, I've been listening to my own advice and taking my time. No reason to hurry.

Just finished this one. It's a thumb break holster for a Smith and Wesson L frame revolver. Close up of my makers mark, an American Indian Pictograph of a bears paw.

While I've never had an order for a crossdraw 1911 holster, I have made a S&W J frame crossdraw. Lobo's right, making a crossdraw and ensuring accessibility, concealability and carryability is a challenge. This is the design I came up with; Customer was quite satisfied and sent me a pic of him wearing it. He told me that it conceals well while remaining accessible.

You've been doin' leather craft for only about a month? I'm lookin' forward to seein' some of your stuff after you've been at it for a while. That's some beautiful stuff ya got thar.

To stiffen leather for a holster, I just use hot tap water for molding. It's 8-9 ounce so I'm not sure how that'll work with 2-3 ounce. I'm reluctant to put it in an oven or use a hair dryer on it for fear of drying it out.