toxo

I daresay there are but my point was that there is no standardisation so if you intend getting into foiling you'd best buy your three sets of letters from the same company at the same time. If you look closely at my original set, the shoulders are bigger below the number. if you turn one around they won't line up. This latest set do appear to be more equal top/bottom so the "9"s and "6"s probably will match but they're no good to me because they're bigger overall and in the shoulders and won't fit in any of my three letter holders.

Not sure why you're asking but this is the 1st set I bought after some searching because of the extra letters. The second pic shows the extra set I bought to get the 2nd "9". The two on the left are "6"s and the bit that set's them apart from the "9"s is the shoulders. If you turn them around they won't fit in the holder. The ones on the right come from the second set and are completely different. They would be fine if all your letters were the same but this is what you get when ordering from different companies at different times. I had to file down one of the second "9"s to alter not only the the shoulders but the overall fit in the holder.

Thanks guys but it would've looked better without the flat simulated sinew. Only went with it for the colour. Still - one of my favourite sayings - Don't let perfect be the enemy of the good.

I'm not complaining. Had the good stuff, 4 bed house in London. Horses in the garden. Acorse that went to the ex wife and kids. Happy enough now with the little bungalow and small garden for me and the three dogs. Have a massive park and woods fifty yards away. Have a library/media center 70yds away, a great shop 100 yds away for groceries. A nice drinking club 2 mins in the car or a longish walk. All I'm missing is a good woman to put me in my place now and then.

Oh my heart bleeds for you Chuck. Try doing it in the bedroom.

Maybe not. Depends on how much thread is sticking out past the securing nut. The aluminium boss that the nps slides onto is hollow. Don't have a lathe anymore but I'll give it a try.

I think I'm gonna try to fit the normal NPS onto the motor pulley. The machine is perfectly usable and will get better as I get used to it but I do like my NPSs.

Thanks for that 1hp. I'd kinda figured out that much but was thinking was there more to the first part where it talks about needle up/down. Is it saying the motor can do this or only in conjunction with a traditional NPS? Here's what mine looks like.

I appreciate that but the blurb seems to be saying that the motor is capable of needle positioning on it's own. If you look at the picture the two dots above the "P" are for needle up and needle down. I like having needle positioning. On my other two machines I've replaced the handwheel with a larger pulley to slow down the machine which it does very well as well as giving more torque and the normal NPS works very well on both. I wonder if the normal NPS would work on the motor pulley?

Does anyone have an English user manual for this motor? It came with my new machine which is a copy of the Techsew 2750. The motor seems ok and I can get it to start really slowly and speed up on the treadle but apparently it has a needle up and a needle down setting. It came with a normal NPS as well but I can't get that to work properly because the machine has a speed reducer. If someone was really good on this machine they could almost get the needle up/down on the treadle but I can't do it with any consistency. The user manual for the motor is mostly Chinese and the English bits just make me laugh. Any advice anyone?

Finally got their collars done. Modern advice is no name, just phone number in case they get stolen (was a spate of it over here). Trouble was my letters only had two "9"s and my number has three. Eventually ordered more letters and numbers from China and the damn things were slightly different. They wouldn't even fit in the "T" slot holder. Sending back wasn't an option so I set to with the Dremel and file and got it done. If you look closely you can see the odd one out but at least the dogs can go out with their new collars.

Finally got it done. Not perfect by any means but it does what it's supposed to do. Didn't help using the wrong thread and had a blip with the stamping but overall I'm pleased and as usual I learned a lot. It's already had a couple of turns through the Microwave. Still not sure about smelling leather whilst I'm drinking my tea but no doubt that will go away. Mistydog was my soulmate. She would bring my slippers whenever I came home. Now I have two of her Granddaughters and her great Granddaughter.

Welcome from Medway, Kent

Not that I've done it but a good way to shape wood severely is to laminate thin pieces steamed around a jig or form and glued up. I know it as the West system and they lay up yacht hulls with it. It's very strong.

Got some dog collar types with fold over tines somewhere but can't find the damn things.

Is the wheel part of the press? If so what does it do?

Looks good. That watch needed a nice strap.

I would imagine magnets strong enough to hold your work would be hard to get apart for a start. also needs to be smooth so won't mark your work. Might be able to do something for a watch strap but think half a handbag.

Looks like a good job well done. Thought about stuff like this many times but no space and can't get anywhere near the outside so I'll stick with my mini one for light engraving.

Sorry Folker, have searched all of marketplace for it and can't find it but found some other goodies for you. I'd look at the "29" myself if I had some space. (2) Marketplace – Singer Sewing machine 29K58 | Facebook (2) Marketplace – SINGER 45K/89 HEAVY DUTY CYLINDER ARM INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINE. | Facebook (2) Marketplace – Pfaff post bed industrial sewing machine | Facebook (2) Marketplace – Singer machine | Facebook (2) Marketplace – Singer 29K3 patcher sewing machine with pedal stand WORKING | Facebook (2) Marketplace – Singer sowing machine stool base | Facebook

And that pic shows the problem exactly. The disparity between the main and the bottom stitches. Good job on the bottle.

Nice idea on the form but getting back to the video, surely if you don't mark the main body then with it upside down you use a straightedge from the bottom center, through the bottom hole you can just mark the outside hole on the main body as per your drawing, no?

Not really germane to this problem but my cup is cone shaped which brought up a whole nother set of shapes which I hadn't thought of. I think everyone who calls themselves a leather crafter should make a conical leather cup/mug/jug. I do think that provided you get both sets of holes lined up, it's easier to run an awl through both punched holes on the 45. Wouldn't be watertight of course but not needed in my case.

OK here is what I was trying to do in the first place. As I've said, I don't think skipping stitches is the proper way to go even if this guy get's away with it. Another consideration is whether you're going with hole punches, chisels or awls. I got into trouble because I used punches which can be problematical unless you happen to have the corresponding set of punches with the wider spacing for the bigger circumference so unlikely to be the way to go especially if you want the 45 degree holes. I did see something a long while back where someone (might have been Leodis?) where he made a wooden 45 degree gadget so you could chamfer the edges and use punches but I digress, anyway, I'm loving this conversation and I'm trying to keep up even though my hair stands on end when I see a scientific calculator but I love that every day is a school day. TWO New Stitches to Elevate your Leathercraft! (youtube.com)

I didn't give any thought to it initially. just punched the body and the bottom with the same punch and started thinking about it near the end when I had this bubble that I knew wasn't gonna go away. Chucks drawing is an easy way to see it. I still don't know if it would be better to lose a stitch or use a wider spacing for the bigger circumference.