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zaynexpetty

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Everything posted by zaynexpetty

  1. zaynexpetty
    I would also like to know how to make veg tan more supple. Right now, I have read about applying multiple light coats of neatsfoot oil, although I am unsure of how long to let it dry in between coats. As for the crocking, have you tried using 50/50 acrylic resolene as a finish? I use pro oil dye for my belts and wallets and have been using 50/50 water and resolene as a finish, with buffing after dying, oiling, and finishing, and I haven't noticed any crocking, I even dye the inside of my belts (even my black belts), which a lot of people don't recommend, but applying resolene to the flesh side helps avoid any pigments rubbing off. Good luck! Zayne When you say "letting it sit a spell in between", how long approximately would you say you wait? Is there a good indicator that the leather has taken that coat of oil, and is ready for the next? Zayne
  2. zaynexpetty
    Hello all, I am having issues setting brass rivets with my rivet setter (https://www.etsy.com/listing/118895691/stud-rivet-setter-tool-machine-hand). The posts always end up indenting the caps, even when I cut the post down. If I cut the posts any shorter than I do the caps come off without much effort. I don't think it is an issue with the rivet setter, it seems to function as it is intended. The die used on the machine is a 12mm double cap die. I am using 7mm and 9.2mm double cap rivets with differing post sizes for various leather thicknesses. My plan was to cut down any posts that were too long, but as I mentioned, the posts still indent the caps. Have any of you had similar issues? Thanks Zayne
  3. zaynexpetty
    Those look like they would work nice. I am realize that I might have to get some knives and do some modifying myself. Thank you for the input! Yes, please do let me know how that turns out. I have thought about going that route as well as I have some wood carving knives. I really need to get a nice head knife. I keep seeing them used in most of the videos I watch. Thanks for the input.
  4. zaynexpetty
    I'll have to check that out, thanks.
  5. zaynexpetty
    So far, I have been using Tandy's rubber cement stuff to hold two pieces of leather together so that I can sew. The problem I have been having is with wallets in particular. I make the inside portion of the wallet shorter lengthwise than the outside, in order to assist the wallet in folding. So the cement I have been using doesn't work great because the two pieces wont hold in place while I wait for it to set up (I tried using clamps, but they mark the leather). Long story short, does anyone know of any glue that hold leather on leather really well that isnt extremely messy or overly toxic? I have read that Barge's is extremely toxic and contains carcinogens. Does anyone have experience with Weldwood? I guess I am looking for more of a permanent bond to hold the leather in place without clamps.
  6. zaynexpetty
    I have been having some trouble cutting round corners and circles out of leather. Right know I have a utility knife, which works good for cutting straight lines for the most part, and an x acto style knife, which I have been using for cutting corners. The x acto is too flimsy and tends to bend when I am cutting corners, making the cut at an angle, most of the time. I would like a knife that is that same style, but with a sturdier blade that wont bend. Anyone have any suggestions? I almost bought this knife, but decided I better ask for some advice before doing so: http://usaknifemaker.com/industrial-knife-set-especially-designed-for-leather.html#.U785SajPmO0 Thanks, Zayne
  7. zaynexpetty
    Ive heard of this before. What is the purpose of the paraffin? thanks, Zayne How is it that you apply the wax? Thanks, Zayne
  8. zaynexpetty
    I have been using gum trag to finish the edges on all my other products, and it works alright. I was considering trying out fiebings saddle soap instead, to see how it works, but I recently heard that some animals might be allergic to glycerine, and I will be making some dog collars. So, does fiebings saddle soap have glycerine in it? Is it true that some animals might be allergic to it? If anyone has had any experiences with this, that would be very helpful. Also, as always, if there are any better/safer methods, feel free to advise! Thanks Zayne
  9. zaynexpetty
    For now, I do accessories, (belts, wallets, key fobs, etc...) I agree, thank you for your input. Looks like I wont be using my last name. I do have another good idea for a name (at least I think so) but I am slightly worried about trademark infringement. Do you have any experience on the matter? I really like the word mercantile. Would that be appropriate for a business that sells just one type of good? Thanks Zayne
  10. zaynexpetty
    I have been racking my brain for the past few months and I have not been able to come up with a name that I am satisfied with for my one-man leatherworking operation. I really would just like some filler words, for example: mercantile, brand, works, goods, etc... I would love to use my last name (Petty), but unfortunately, the word "petty" also has a definition in the dictionary that is synonomous with lesser quality. But if I could insert a filler word, so that "Petty" isnt describing the type of leather, or the type of operation I am running, that would be ideal. Something like "Petty (insert word here) leather goods". Or am I just over-thinking this? Because, at the same time, I think that anyone with common sense would realize that no one in their right mind would use a negative word like "petty" to describe their own product, so they must come to the conclusion that "petty" is a surname. Am I right? I don't know! Does anyone have any good ideas? What are some common generic words people use in their leather company names, or even words that people use in the trade business? Thanks Zayne
  11. zaynexpetty
    I have purchased some Hermann Oak tooling leather recently from Springfield Leather Company, and I was very satisfied with it. Although, I found out that Hermann Oak (or at least the stuff that springfield supplies) is "grade c" quality. I was surprised, because the leather seemed to be higher quality (I am in no way knocking Hermann Oak or Springfield, both are great companies that I will probably continue to do business with). I have noticed that it is no easy task to find a leather supplier that supplies "grade A" leather in small quantities. I want the top grade stuff. Mainly for advertising purposes (that may sound stupid, but I have done research, and it does wonders for marketing). Does anyone know where I can purchase some Natural Grade A tooling sides/shoulders/etc.?? Thank you for your input Zayne
  12. zaynexpetty
    Both are great suggestions. I will have to try them. I always for the more natural, chemical free way of doing things. My grandpa even has a few walnut trees! Thanks! Zayne Do know if olive oil also makes the leather more supple/flexible? I know that neatsfoot oil does this, but I would prefer to use olive oil instead, if it has that added benefit. Thanks Zayne
  13. zaynexpetty
    I have searched the forums but havent found any good answers. I like oil dye, as I haven't had any problems with it, and I havent tried any water/alcohol based dyes yet. I use cut resolene as a finish, and I heard people have had issues with water/alcohol based dyes coming off when using it. Anyways, I would like to create my own custom colors of dye, whether that requires making dyes from scratch or mixing two existing dyes. I am looking to make colors like indigo/navy, maroon/dark red, and dark green. What is the best way to achieve this? I use feibings pro oil dye now, but I am completely open to suggestions. Thanks Zayne
  14. zaynexpetty
    I think I will have to give extra virgin olive oil a try. Thank you for the information and the bit of history. Zayne
  15. zaynexpetty
    Yes, I did write the question wrong, haha. I obviously dont want it to bleed. Thanks for the info. Zayne For my last couple projects I have used just cut up white cotton. Seems to be working well. Thank you for the advice. Zayne Great advice. I actually just got my first order of Hermann Oak today and I was happily surprised with the condition of the flesh side. It looks like I wont be fussing with the back side of Tandy leather any more. Thanks! Zayne
  16. zaynexpetty
    I completely agree. I will send you a PM in a moment. Thank you. Zayne I actually checked that site out. To shop on OTB do you have to have a business ID number or anything? I heard that you dont, but I'm not sure how to order otherwise. Thanks Zayne I like buckleguy.com. Pretty fair prices for solid brass. Ill have to check out Ryan's, I have never heard of them. Thanks Zayne
  17. zaynexpetty
    How long do you generally wait in between coats? And how thick do you lay it on with each coat? Thanks Zayne I've heard that can go rancid, do you have experience with this? I guess people say the same thing about neatsfoot oil going rancid. I dont know how true this is. Thanks Zayne I think I will try this. Great recommendation, thanks. Zayne
  18. zaynexpetty
    I just recently purchased an 8-9oz Hermann Oak double bend, for belts/straps, and it is very stiff, and will only get more stiff with the application of dyes. I know that the leather being as thick as that, it will only get to a certain amount of flexibility, but I would still like to make it more supple, if possible. Any suggestions? Thanks Zayne
  19. zaynexpetty
    The title is pretty self explanitory. I am wondering how you darken natural leather without the use of dyes or stains. I have a dark brown dye. But to get an even coat without an air brush requires multiple coats and it darkens it a ton. How would I get a light brown color without dying or staining? I would prefer something that started out very light, maybe 2 or 3 shades darker than natural, and got darker with multiple applications. Thanks Zayne
  20. zaynexpetty
    I always hear that you should buff leather after you dye it. However, I don't know exactly what that means. I use feibings pro oil dye. I am making belts currently but will be making other items in the future. I dye the inside of the belt, even when using black (yes, I know), because I don't like how it looks undyed. How does one "buff"? What stage do I buff? After the final resolene finish or right after I dye before I do anything else? And what is the best way to avoid sealing the leather on the flesh side to avoild bleeding? I have heard that using 50/50 resolene on top of gum trag is the way to go. Is that recommended? Thanks! Zayne
  21. zaynexpetty
    Ill have to check that out as well, thanks! In searching on the internet, I found a company with good variety and their prices arent bad either; www.buckelguy.com
  22. zaynexpetty
    Honestly, that's how I look at it. Eventually I would like to be only purchasing full grain leather, but I don't have the budget for that at the moment. When you say "the lower quality sides and shoulders are great practice material" you arent referring any Hermann Oak cuts are you?
  23. zaynexpetty
    I saw that, I don't know what I'd do without Harbor Freight. Zayne
  24. zaynexpetty
    All my questions answered. Thanks guys, I will have to give ohio travel bag a look. Thanks Zayne
  25. zaynexpetty
    I think I will check out springfeild. You aren't the first person to have suggested them. This is going to be a dumb question: What is the difference between regular veg tan and hermann oak? Just better grain/grade?
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