Jump to content

DJole

Members
  • Content Count

    1,079
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by DJole

  1. I noticed that too. It's the only corner where the holes just don't quite line up right! ;-) That's a good tip to start from the corners, and get those even, and then maybe have a slightly longer stitch in the middle of the straight line.
  2. Thank you-- I worked hard to get good lines on the tooling pattern. The thread is Ritza Tiger 0.6. The stitching chisels are Japan Goods 3mm. In a couple places (where the leather stacks up in multiple layers) I also used Kevin Lee 3mm reverse irons to make sure the lines were straight. I discovered that to get the stitching lines straight, as I was pounding from the tooling side down, I needed to hold the chisel a couple degrees slanted from vertical, since the thickness of most of the red pocket leather doesn't go all the way to the edges. I also cut the interior pocket pieces (and their backing) a bit bigger so that I could trim them all after stitching, so I have a nice, even edge.
  3. A view of the inside: Black Tokonole on the edges, light brown Ritza thread, and some nice red leather from a remnant sale.
  4. Just finished this up last night. Here's the outside with the tooling pattern completed: And here's the completed piece: I used Angelus Light Brown dye on this piece.
  5. I also made a modification on the the "buckle" end. The original has three decorative domed rivets: http://djole.altervista.org/djole/Publications/Leather/A/Arming Scabbard hanger/Hanger 1.jpg But they didn't hold up to the strain, so I replaced them with the copper "burr and washer" rivets.
  6. I just saw that the Ye Olde Gaffer's website has vanished into internet ether... But the Wayback machine has it available : https://web.archive.org/web/20200731202515/http://www.yeoldegaffers.com/project_scabbard.asp I followed his recommendation: I used a cloth measuring tape and wrapped it around the scabbard in the same pattern as the lacing would be. This gave me a baseline length, but I cut it longer and after actually doing the lacing, I trimmed off the excess leather. I didn't have to trim too much. If you don't have a cloth measuring tape, you can use a length of string instead. And remember -- some of the straps require a slit so that another section of the strap can go through it --- don't cut those slits in advance! Cut them as you are lacing.
  7. A quick internet search brought up the following-- maybe they will work for you? > https://www.instructables.com/A-leather-Altoids-tin-case/ >https://www.outdoorcore.com/courses/how-to-make-a-leather-altoid-tin-belt-pouch
  8. To help you on your way, here are the websites I used for reference: Leather Wrap a Scabbard Core. These are illustrated step-by-step guides (pdf format) posted on Sword Buyer's Guide, using routers and other tools, explaining carefully how to do it. Ye Olde Gaffer's web page (http://www.yeoldegaffers.com/project_scabbard.asp), Long video--> < And a single picture for reference: http://djole.altervista.org/djole/Publications/Leather/A/Arming Scabbard hanger/York Minster Hanger.jpg
  9. For full pictures (front and back) as well as some information, see my webpage: http://djole.altervista.org/djole/Publications/Leather/I/Irons/IronCases.htm These are nice small projects for practicing various things, without having to toss them if I mess something up (such as crooked stitching lines...heh!)
  10. My ancient lacing chisels from Tandy (left two) and the nearly as old Tandy diamond irons. Kevin Lee 3 mm Reverse irons.
  11. Chinese 4 mm pricking irons Goods Japan 3 mm diamond irons
  12. Hi Xig, and welcome to the forum! The leather in many tutorial videos, which can be beveled and tooled, is called "vegetable tan leather" or "tooling leather." Your soft leather is probably garment leather (like cloth) or "chrome tan leather," neither of which is meant to be tooled or beveled.
  13. Yes, that's the kind of thing I am looking for.
  14. Is there a supplier for snaps in which the snap button looks like the firing pin end of a rifle or pistol cartridge? if so, this is perfect for a new project I'm planning out.
  15. DJole

    Bracelet hardware

    Need hardware like clasps, buckles, and what-not? Look here: Ohio Travel Bag The Buckle Guy Ning Bags
  16. I find they work okay. I also have Feibings dyes available-- I use one or the other mostly because of color choice. What doesn't work for you with the Angelus dyes? I'm curious to know if I'm doing something differently with them than you are.
  17. A wallet I recently completed, using Buddhist motifs. The pattern is based on Corter and Weaver's fancy wallet pattern (with slight modifications). The colors are Angelus dyes: Rose, Green, and Light Blue. The stitching is 3mm JapanGood irons, and Kevin Lee 3mm Reverse irons. I'm starting to really like those! The inside pocket thread is metallic gold, and the outside thread is gold colored waxed polyester. The outside leather is 3mm (7-8 oz) veg tan; rather thick for a wallet, but it was from a remnant of a hide I've had for years now, and the interior is smooth, not rough or fuzzy. Inside leather is reddish pigskin and black liner leather. Edges are burnished with clear Tokonole.
  18. Very nice work! I'm curious -- all the tooled pieces you show are the Western floral style. Do you have any that use Chinese motifs and design?
  19. I am astounded to see the knife sheath and knife still around, after years of use and abuse! I still have the luggage tag I made from a kit during 7th grade shop, back in 77-78, with some pretty bad attempt at floral tooling. I think that the emphasis on western floral was too soon, so that in my mind leatherwork equaled floral tooling, which I didn't find appealing.
  20. Welcome to the forum! You may not get immediate answers to questions or problems, but there are a lot of helpful folks here with an incredible depth and breadth of knowledge. Part of the learning process here in the forum is figuring out which sub-forum is best for a particular question topic -- there are places devoted to tooling, to dyes, to sewing machines, to sharpening...it's all there.
  21. DJole

    I can’t stop! Tiki

    Thanks for sharing these. They are wonderful pieces of art!
  22. Not much in K-12, unless you happen to live in/on one of the big reservations (like the Navajo, for example). It's mostly only discussed briefly as the western cultures collided with the native peoples over the past 3 centuries. It's also difficult to get to a "good level" on "their" history, because they are not one single group, either cultural or regional. In the past, that was hundreds of tribes, nations, and confederacies, with different languages and histories. And if we add modern Canada and Alaska to the mix, the amount of information doubles in size and complexity. There are fewer now, but still a daunting amount of information to try and master. So one can only really get a sense of native American or First Nations' people's history on a university level by deliberately seeking it out and seeking to become a specialist -- or by diving into the Internet with the same intent.
  23. It just takes time and patience to cut all the fiddly bits out carefully. I'd LOVE to have the time/tools to make a 3-d printing, as others point out above, but this was dirt cheap, and available in about 15 minutes.
×
×
  • Create New...