YinTx

I just finished re-profiling a ~100 year old German awl blade on a sharpening stone to get a much smaller hole, and couldn't be happier. I think it will become my new favorite awl. Highly recommend trying it if you have awls on hand you aren't using and you need a different size/shape. YinTx

I'd say you nailed it! What kind of antique did you use? YinTx

So that's where your machine went, Ross.... YinTx

That is really sharp! Any pics of the inside? YinTx

Welcome to the forum. Look forward to seeing your work! YinTx

Must be time to build that outdoor forge you've always wanted, then. Perhaps a shop to keep it safe in. Must have it to save money so you can make a maul, right? YinTx

This is really cool to see. Thanks for sharing the process! YinTx

That is awesome! Have you tried it? YinTx

Sealant is the keyword for me. I look at it this way: if the acrylic seals out small molecules like water, it is sealing out larger molecules like beeswax also. I can put drops of water on the acrylic sealed leather, it just sits on top. I suspect the large molecules of NFO/Beeswax mixture is sitting on top as well. When I put water on leather treated with NFO/Beeswax, it still soaks in pretty fast. Tells me I still have room to put the acrylic on top if I need it and it will set into the leather as needed. NFO/Beeswax and other conditioners are just that, conditioners, not sealers. At least this is my view and experience. Again, the joy of leather work is you do what works best for you, on the types of leather projects you make! YinTx

I've done this, it seems to work ok. But the conditioner has to basically soak all into the leather, and not be sitting on top, so for example laying a heavy layer of beeswax and expecting an acrylic finisher to adhere on top of that is kinda silly. I have wondered about putting a conditioner on top of acrylic: how does it help the leather? Is it able to get through the acrylic and into the leather? Or does it just tone down the plastic-y look of the acrylic? I also like the clear-lac finish, but it is pretty harsh stuff, so lots of ventilation, and in my experience it will streak antique like no tomorrow if you don't spray it on. I need an "all the above" button to vote. Just depends on what I am making and how I want it to look. YinTx

Are you using a gel antique or paste antique? Two different beasties. I have had luck using 50/50 Tankote to lift some of the antique and set it, sometimes I'll do two rounds of it to make myself happy with the results. You can apply resolene on top of the Tan Kote for a final seal, I use Angelus Acrylic finish. Sometimes I'll not use antique. YinTx

I was just wondering why they were cutting a perfectly good piece of leather in half like that. YinTx

I can see what you mean about the blue/grey blend. And I understand about the practice practice practice bit! I can see that I have a lot of that to do so I can do trees well. YinTx

Those are cool! Would love to see the impressions they make. Any issues with iron oxide on the leather over time? YinTx

I have been looking for this post for some time. Wanted to add some simple items I use regularly. First, a moving company moved my stuff some time ago, and wrapped everything in this brown paper to keep it from breaking/scratching. I now have piles of it, flattened and folded, that I draw from every time I glue or dye something. Keeps the tables clean! Then, most all laundry soaps nowadays come with a plastic measuring cup as a lid. When the soap is done, I clean the lid and use it for mixing dyes, 50/50 TanKote, holding alcohol for cleaning, etc. Also have accumulated a pile of these lid/cups, and use them regularly. When a sponge is too raggedy for doing dishes, cut it up into squares and use it for dye. Same for worn out T-shirts, etc. Great for buffing. Scrap bits of thicker veg tan leather make great glue spreaders. Those heavy metal binder clips work great to hold things together while you sew, or to keep something together while the glue dries. Use them over and over and over... YinTx

Yep, chap seems happy alright. Brave job, I must say! YinTx

Rule number 2: Refer to Rule #1. Best of luck. I'd have opted for rule #1 myself. Look forward to the photos, tho! YinTx

There are so many things on this website, it's a wonder things ever get seen. Your Facebook will show a better market response than a site full of busy leatherworkers! There's a catch 22! Have to sell stuff to justify the sewing machine... need the sewing machine to sell stuff... YinTx

Interesting design, for sure. What are the holes in the gusset for? YinTx

That texture on the wood. Fantastic. How do you do that? YinTx

Not sure why you say that, seems good to me. Your style is quite unique and well developed, I really enjoy it. Very cool use of colors! YinTx

That color combo would go over very well in New Mexico, where I'm from. Probably Arizona too. I think it's sharp, nicely done! YinTx

I use my fair share of antique, but sometimes a thing just simply looks good enough on it's own not to need antique at all. In my humble opinion, this is one of those items. Fantastic burnish, well defined tooling, a nice coat of oil, maybe a light colored dye, and a finish coat would be outstanding on this. YinTx

Someone here once said show me a leather worker and I'll show you a spouse with a full time job. A plethora of folks try to make decent $ at leather work, a few succeed. A lot of other types of work using your brain muscle pay a lot more money, and doing leather on the side is a good gig, lets you do creative work, have a good hobby, and make a few extra $$ on the side. When you have completed a degree, and decide where your most valuable talent resides, then make the choice on a career path. Don't end the education because you find one skill you enjoy. Nurture both, and the world will be your oyster, as they say. YinTx