MADMAX22

Excellent,

OK so I have a buddy that Im making a windsheild bag for. Its a road king. He made a aluminum bracket for me that follows the contour of the inside of the windsheild so that we can bolt it straight to the three windsheild mounting bolts. Now the hardpart. How do you construct a bag that follows that contour. I wanted to go with the classic look of a standard tool bag but not sure if its gonna work. I played around with some construction paper but couldnt seem to come up with anything that worked. Thanks for any help.

That is a very nice looking belt for sure. Dont mind me asking but did you run both thickness leathers thru the belt end or did you end the lining somewhere, skiv them down or something. Just wondering because I finished my first belt and did it with 8oz on the outside and about 3/4oz on the inside but ended the lining before the buckle setup. Not sure if I really like that too much.

To get unique or close to it your gonna have to do your own. There are many books on how to do celtic knot work. Its not to bad and about the only way you will get a design that may be a little different then what you normally see.

Looks pretty good. I like the design alot. I think maybe you could tighten up the lace around the edge but youll have to get a seat guru to help ya there. Hope my first seat turns out as well.

Great looking stuff. What color did you use on the sheath, I think it came out really well and looks good with that croc. The knife looks awesome also, I love that blade

Nicely done, I like the design with the skulls kind of peering out from the edge.

Im sure the pro's will jump in here soon but IMHO a simple method would be to use something like sno seal on it. That or aussie wax is good also and both of these are easily applied by any one with a cotton cloth and a working hand. Granted they work better if you can take a hair dryer to the leather first (not too hot just warm) then apply them.

Looks good to me. Great work.

Maybe get them back out in the sun for a afternoon or two, should even out the color I would imagine.

Very cool thanks for posting Bree. Ive been doing alot more vinegaroon stuff lately. Really is a good stuff.

Herman oak and wickett and craig leathers are the best I think. Herman oak unless you can get alot of sides at one time will have to be bought thru other retailers that stock there leather. Other places to consider that I have not had a problem with are Springfeild leather Seigel of california waterhouse leathers there are also some that I havent dealt with but seem to be good from people here Zack white leather Goliger

Thats pretty cool. Now you and your bro got a pretty good setup making knives and sheaths. Get back to work lol.

You can warm it up with a lighter (carefully) which will get it soft enough to get onto a strop. Also if you have a sears or harbor freight nearby they usually carry the variouse lapping compounds which is all it is. Here read this thread as well http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=16128

Thats really cool. Good job. How do you like it or have you used it yet. I made one or am making one for myself. Its delrin head but I need to finish the handle. Its gonna be a little heavier duty then my other hammer.

Honestly i thought this one was pretty civil as compared to some of the other threads on this subject. I dont think anyone was really bashing just kind of giving the opinions. I think it varies for different things and different preferences. For thin leathers utility knives are great, for thick leathers the sturdier round knife seems to suit me well but could be different for anyone else. I think the biggest thing with this subject is its like any thread youll find anywhere on motoroil. You bring that subject up and the thread will turn into a 1000 post thread in a couple of days with no one correct answer. Live and let live is a good idea though.

Allthough I agree with some of what you say, I have not sanded any of my finished products. I dont currently have the facilities to do that. I make as best a 90degree cut as I can then bevel the edge and slick it. When I slick the edge I get it cased and this will form the leather into a nice rounded edge. With a round knife you can get pretty good shapes and such. On the really small corners or shapes for my projects I will use a straight blade that as you mentioned has been stropped to a very nice sharpness.

Its not illegal, they just want there money.

sno seal is actually really good at keeping out water. Atleast in my experiences. I dont however use ecoflow when doing the antiquing. I use the feibings gel antique mixed with some neatsfootoil as per direction of a few of the people on this forum. It seems to work pretty well. Oh and nice looking bracers by the way. Would like to add one more thing. Try experimenting with pieces of leather and not a finished project, this way you can find what will work up to your standards before you really try out a finished product.

Wow that is really cool. Really comes together when you see the whole thing all assembled.

I agree, once you learn to sharpen them and keep them sharp they are great. Some people dont like them or dont like using them so its up to the person. Mine I finally learned how to sharpen it and it glides thru 10oz leather with ease.

Looks great, thanks for updating with the pics. That is a very nice bag

Good stuff Ben

Everytime I see this stuff I wanna start making my own. Your very talented Bearman, good work on those tools. Thanks for posting links citizenkate

I think one of the hardest parts for a seat like this is doing the foam. Im still working on getting mine done. Ive got a roadliner myslef, seat looks allmost the same. If you get one of the electric staplers, a nice strong one it will go thru and hold. Rivets also work very good and hold it very well with the plastic but be sure thats your final setup because once you rivet it its a pain in the butt to undo because the rivets spin when you do to drill them out.