Dwight

About 10 minutes on google caught these images: You can mold vegetable tanned leather to darn near any shape you want, . . . it just has to be made in pieces. The Captain America image shows at least 2 front to back seams, . . . If I were doing it, . . . the owner would don a thin watch cap (toboggon to some) and I would wet, cut, and mold the inside pieces to his head over the watch cap. once you get the inside pieces, . . . you can add the strengthening pieces to the outside, . . . wet the whole thing good, . . . mold it on his head, . . . make him wear it for about 3 hours, . . . until most of it was basically dry, . . . take it off, . . . sit it in front of a fan, . . . come back this time tomorrow, . . . it should be ready for a trial fit and adjustment. May God bless, Dwight

Thanks for the good words, folks, . . . It actually was the second one, . . . first one got one hole punched about 3 inches from where it was needed, . . . could not figure out a work around, . . . so I guess some day in the fairly near future, . . . my old Jumbo saddle (I think it is older than I am), . . . will have a rifle scabbard hanging from it. It was a fun project, . . . for a friend, . . . and that Golden Boy going in it, . . . well, . . . it ain't never had it so good. May God bless, Dwight

Something happened, . . . cause I put the picture on here, . . . gremlins are amongst us I guess. May God bless, Dwight

FWIW, . . . Tandy's clips (and most others for that matter) were never intended to be riveted on and used as they came out of the package or off the sales hook. They need a leather "sleeve" over them, . . . it keeps them in place, . . . the rivet is a "make sure" deal, . . . and positions everything so it can be sewn together. As far as the rivets not staying on, . . . I'd have to see what kind of rivet you used, . . . and how you did it. I rivet my clips to the outside piece of leather, . . .the sleeve, . . . using 2 piece brass rivets, . . . then glue and sew the sleeve onto the holster, bag, knife sheath, whatever, . . . and I've simply never had any problem with them. May God bless, Dwight

A friend asked me to make this for him. I doubt it will ever see a saddle and horse sweat. Lined with a beautiful 1/4 inch long lamb's wool, . . . feels like a fur lining. May God bless, Dwight

A friend asked me to make this for him. I doubt it will ever see a saddle and horse sweat. Lined with a beautiful 1/4 inch long lamb's wool, . . . feels like a fur lining. May God bless, Dwight

They look good to me, . . . especially the basket weave, . . . something I gave up on a long, long, long time ago. What part of Ohio do you call home? I'm near a little burg called Waldo. May God bless, Dwight

Stohlman or not, . . . it's a lousy design. An IWB needs rigidity to make the draw smooth, easy, and non eventful. This design seems to defeat all three of those ideas. If you are dead set on having this design, . . . it'll have to be steel lined from the bottom to "up and over" the belt top, . . . and I'm not sure that would solve all of the problem. May God bless, Dwight

Best place to go is somewhere like Office Depot or Office Max, . . . try out every one they have. I have three chairs and two stools, . . . all of em sit above 24 inches. For your 38 inch top, . . . I'd just put one or two of them on a box on wheels, . . . 5 good swivel wheels at Harbor freight should set you back $35 or so, . . . and it should be plenty safe enough if your floor is fairly smooth. Just be careful of the mounting and dismounting. But then again, . . . I'm just a cheap old coot, . . . been making do for so long with home made contraptions, . . . don't know how to do it any other way. May God bless, Dwight.

Not meaning to bash you my friend, . . . but in a nutshell, . . . sounds like a lousy design. Try making a standard pancake, . . . then instead of belt slots like you would use for an OWB, . . . make the ears a little taller, . . . put straps and snaps on it, . . . the straps go over the top of your pants, . . . down under your belt, . . . then come up and snap on top. Tried and true design, . . . works like a champ, . . . and if you pull it out of your britches, . . . there is something else going on we just don't understand. May God bless, Dwight

I use Feibings thinner for their dye. In reality, . . . you don't save a lot, . . . but the dye goes on better I think, . . . plus there is a whole lot less ruboff and buffing that has to be done. As for contitioner, . . . I really haven't used it enough to be competent to tell you much about it. My "conditioner" I've used in the past has simply been neetsfoot oil, . . . used sparingly, . . . if at all, . . . as most of my stuff needs the rigidity, . . . belts & holsters and the like. May God bless, Dwight

I put this in my Google Chrome,..... youtube: airbrush dying leather I got a full page of videos. Didn't watch them, . . . but you'll probably find something there to help. May God bless, Dwight

Airbrush ! First dye the whole thing the lightest color you will be using, . . . come back and feather in the fades you want. Suggestion, . . . go practice on some cardboard or something else first, . . . get your technique down. Harbor freight has airbrushes for less than $30, . . . and they'll work for what you are doing. And yes, . . . if you want a hint of green, . . . you can add that to the clearcoat, . . . but again, . . . better practice it so you know what you are getting. May God bless, Dwight

Leather is like in-laws, . . . comes in all kinds of sizes, shapes, flavors, and temperaments. But only one can be fully and successfully utilized by most guys. In the case of in-laws, . . . it's that huntin / fishin / Ford driving brother of hers, . . . in the case of leather, . . . it's vegetable tanned. Put what you have in a box, bag, drawer, or cupboard for a while. Go get get a piece of good vegetable tanned 8/9 oz leather (buy a small hunk on Ebay), . . . get some cheap tools, . . . mess around with it, . . . see if you like it. Getting into leather working really is sorta like getting married, . . . and if you decide to bail out after 20 bucks worth of leather and 30 bucks worth of cheap tools, . . . you haven't lost much, . . . kinda like the $50 annulment, . . . May God bless, Dwight

I'll get in here, . . . just so I get the answer too, . . . never had that happen. Heck, . . . the cottonpickin' stuff sticks to everything in my shop, . . . Have you got a picture you can share??? May God bless, Dwight

Eirewolf, . . . I'm going to go out on a limb here, . . . but it is supported by several years of past experience: you simply are applying the dye and the resolene wrong. Especially the black dye, . . . cut it 2 to 1, . . . 2 thinners to 1 dye if you are using Feibings Pro Oil dye, . . . and let it dry, . . . 24 hours minimum. Then get an old wash cloth you never want to put on your body again, . . . and buff that piece of leather like you are shining your shoes, . . . buff hard, and seriously. THEN, . . . cut your resolene 1 to 1 with distilled water (or some water that has VERY low chlorine in it). Use a 1 inch, . . . cheap, . . . bristle brush (about 49 cents at a hardware store), . . . and lightly brush on a full coat of the resolene, . . . when it is dry, . . . 24 hours later, . . . buff it good just like you did the dye. Then add a second, maybe third coat. Experiment, . . . you may need a 4th coat. I don't do more than 2 for belts and holsters and they hold up great. Resolene and dyes are not made to be used full strength from what I've experienced, . . . so I really think that is your problem. There is another finish you can try, . . . and I really like it for some of the stuff I do, . . . it is a mixture of beeswax and neatsfoot oil, . . . it makes a very nice finish, . . . doesn't allow bleed through of the dye if it is done right, . . . but is a more time consuming finish. Anyway, . . . let us know how you make out. May God bless, Dwight

Vegetable tanned leather is what you will want if you want to dye it, stamp it, decorate it, etc. Blanks can be purchased through Tandy Leather, or almost any of the other suppliers. Go to a Tandy store and pick it out yourself. A belt is a good project for a "first one" and the folks there can get you started out at least mostly correct. I personally use Feibings pro oil dye and Resolene for a finish on all my belts. Both are cut 50/50, . . . dye with thinner, Resolene with water. May God bless, Dwight

My wingtips are all little holes punched in the leather, . . . so get a little punch, . . . and punch holes in the leather, . . . you'll have to make the pattern to suit you, . . . mine are a couple different sized holes. Stain the whole thing brown to start with, . . . then being very careful, . . . dye the edges only. May God bless, Dwight

Mine has some very small parts to it as is easily seen, . . . and is made of a plastic, . . . someone correct me if I goof this one, . . . I believe it is called Delrin, . . . ??? Anyway, . . . white tough plastic, . . . has held up well, . . . would recommend it to anyone. May God bless, Dwight

Google Ohio Travel Bag, . . . open their on-line catalog, . . . if they don't have it, . . . I always pretty much consider it not being able to be found, reasonably. By the way, . . . if you have a slow internet connection, . . . it will take a little while to load, . . . but in the long run, . . . it's worth it usually to wait. May God bless, Dwight

Here's mine: as a pastor, and a leather worker, a guy named Dwight, who lives in Waldo, Ohio, . . . it tells all of that, . . . which is what I wanted. May God bless, Dwight

I have no idea, . . . as I don't know the designer of the pattern or belt, . . . what I can show you is how I do mine, . . . see the enclosed diagram. From what I could see, . . . it looks like a pattern for a rough out, money belt style. Is that what you are making? May God bless, Dwight

I line any spur strap I make that has conchos / spots / any metal decoration, . . . to protect my customer's boots. I do not want to get a bill for a ruined $500 pair of Plesiosaurus skin roping boots. But I also don't want those boots harmed by my work, . . . if the cowboy rips off his heel doggin' a doggie, . . . that's his problem, . . . I just don't want to contribute. That said, . . . I use pig skin, . . . contact cement it, . . . sew it, . . . full covering over the back and the tongue, . . . and it is all done before the dying and staining process starts. AND, . . . I also back and sew the matching piece of the spur strap. May God bless, Dwight

There are some "ways" of doing a saddle stitch that are easier or faster than other "ways", . . . but no matter how you cut it, . . . it is all hand work, . . . beautiful when it is done, but none the less, . . . all done by hand. May God bless, Dwight

Greyhawk, . . . I'm sending you a couple pics of my saddle, . . . and yes, . . . I've ridden in it, . . . and I love it. Bought it out of a pawn shop in Denver, Colorado. It has seen a lot of better days, . . . but it may give you some ideas if you look at it closely, . . . colors, textures, worn spots, etc. As for stamping it "after the fact", . . . it was commonly done years ago, . . . cowboys with home made stamps (from 20 penny nails and a file), . . . used a small hammer, stamp, and a piece of firewood from what I've been led to believe. Mine has that appearance, . . . plenty of places there are stamps that the original maker just did not do. Just remember, . . . it IS, . . . YOUR, . . . saddle, . . . treat it like YOU want to. I had planned to refurbish this old relic when I first got it, . . . wound up making a few changes to make sure it was sound enough to ride with, . . . and will do some cosmetic things later on, . . . but for now, . . . it is the entrance hall highlight of my leather shop, . . . and I like it. Not meaning to disparage your saddle, . . . but I would not trade with you, . . . I like mine so well. You can make yours to the place YOU like it too. May God bless, Dwight