CowboyBob

Juki kept the same holes in the front & it doesn't have a roller,just a finger that comes down.

The Juki 563 @ $1.100.00 is 1/2 price of the new 1508 & in good condition it's worth it.You might even be able to get them down alittle on the price.

I hate to disagree with anyone but the Juki DU-1118N is more of a canvas machine,it has feed dogs the help pull the material,the upper feet also have teeth & does not have a needlefeed that the Juki 1541S has which is a way better machine for leather,the feed dog has teeth on them BUT since it is a needlefeed they can be ground off & it won't affect it at all.

Glad to know you got it fixed.

What size needle & thread are you using?

Ok,you could loosen the screws on collar#26 & push the pin over by pushing on #18,sometimes there's play there.Once in a while screw#25 is loose letting to bushing move.

Loosen 2-screws #19 & move part#20 to the right.

The 168 will sew up to a total of 20oz & would be the better choice.

It's on page #23 in your manual.You go to the backside approx. in the middle you'll see a wing nut,loosen it & slide it up for more foot lifting height.

Yes,your right there isn't enough metal there to be able to drill the holes you need to mount it.

Yes,it will slow it down,you will probably need to extend the belt slot so the belt doesn't rub.

Hannah,Thanks for your kind words. I'm glad I thought of doing that,the problem is since we changed to this style of motor we are not having enough problems to know what to do when something happens.

Yes,I think that setup would work great.

The feed cam you need to adjust is on the lower shaft,the same one that makes the stitch length,but the first thing to check is did you make sure to line the marks on the lower shaft with the take up lever all the way at the top when you installed the timing belt? Also make sure this cam has the screw marked S on the cam is in the slot on the shaft,along with the cam under the feed dog needs to be in slot too.

So meanwhile here in the US they will probably have to hire some more inefficient workers & then have to build larger buildings (gotta spend the $$ you know) to track the non-payers down & I'm sure they will devise some penalty or interest for non-compliers!!

The price is in the ballpark,maybe you can get it for less? It will probably have a clutchmotor on it that you'll need to change to a servo so you can control the speed.This machine will sew to around 5/16" or 20 oz of leather & use up to #138 thread.

Get a flat steel pulley with large enough center to go over the shoulder of the wheel & drill through the side of it & the handwheel that is on the machine,use 3 or 4 bolts & nuts evenly spaced.

Your Welcome ,the credit goes to Campbell-Randall for making it,yes, the original 3 pages sure left a lot to be desired.

Found it. union_lockstitch.pdf

The tension release only works when you pick up the foot,it has nothing to do with tension settings.Have you taken the adjuster nut off & taken the discs out to check for grooves & or lint or dirt on them?

No,when you flip the base over the holes for the pedals will be further away from your feet like you want.

No 346 won't work,I have a customer here in town that is using#277 BUT it is on vinyl for top stitching cars seats,on leather you have more friction with the larger needle & you just can't get enough foot pressure to hold the leather down so it will skip stitches & break thread if you go much over 1/4" thickness with a bigger needle #25 that the larger thread requires.

You can flip the base over & then the pedals will be towards the back.This will take alittle work because you'll have to take the head off the table,lay the stand down,unbolt the base,take the pedals off & re-install on the otherside,put the castors on the otherside & bolt the column back on.

Some of these 145's are for binding & the feed dog didn't lift ,sounds like what you have.

I found one in our stock that has the plug.