CowboyBob

With the way the servo & speed reducer work & how lightweight they are compared to this setup would be overkill on a sewing machine(esp with all the extra parts on it).BTW we had a variable speed like that on our old Massey Harris self-propelled combine that I used to run on our farm & it would eat a belt every couple of yrs,as long as your were moving you could slide the lever up & down pretty easy though.

I've never done it they way jimi says.I've always just used a small punch or nail & hammer it out from the bottom of the post(there's a hole in the casting for this) it's a pressed in fit & then you have to tap it back in to re-insatl.

Here's a before & after,we used electric arc w/a nickle rod. welded Adler.pdf

This machine is the same as the Consew P1206 we've been selling & we haven't had issues like this with it.You have some good advice already & it sounds like it needs some oil on all the walking foot parts underneath the cover & you possibly could have the tension too loose so you might have to increase it a little to make it go down.And after you use it for a month or so you can loosen the pressure foot tension once it gets broken in.

The lever on this one is for stitch length,it has no reverse,this machine has many uses but was made for sewing shoe uppers.

It was meant for use in Tailor , Alteration & Drapery shops.

Sometimes the needlebar thread guide gets a groove worn in it from the thread & will cause this,you might look @ the hole on the inside foot(on the bottom side) it can also get grooved from the thread.We stock edge guide feet & a drop down guide too.

No,it won't because you'll still have the same amount of pressure.Your marking with this type of leather would be less with a lighter pressure foot spring.I also know a lot of people just rub the marks out w/a spoon or bone.

Sorry,it left around noon.

Jacob,One of the shoe shops had me order the color on the left for them for the LV purses it's in size#69.

The shaft has 2-grooves on it approx. 45degrees apart that the head of the screw seats into,there is no keyway on these machines.

No,I priced one from Pfaff once & it was $150.00 (still cheaper than a reducer & servo) BUT you need a servo anyways.

It's a step in the right direction BUT the pulley only has on set screw & if you start sewing anything very thick in time it won't hold,that's why they put 2-screws in the original pulley that line up with the grooves in the shaft. Sailrite is high priced on everything they sell,we sell the for $4.00 a pk.

Those 135x17 are for cloth...order what I wrote 135x16D like I said is for leather.If you can't find them we have them in stock in all sizes.

If your sewing leather you want a leather point 135x16D size#23 for 207 thread. Here's a chart for different sizes of thread; https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html

When you use #207 in the needle be sure to put #138 in the bobbin.Or you'll never get the bobbin thread to pull up.

The Rex is a good motor to bad they don't put a 2" pulley on it.

Good job! Nice looking machine too!

Like Wiz said it's a 29 something,there's a model# on the brass tag behind the wheel ask them what it is & let us know.

Parts are pretty expensive & changing it requires a good mechanic.The price varies on the width you need.

Yes,how far apart are the needles?

The 111w would be a better machine for upholstery,feet selection is much better,the 111w cording feet will fit the 144 but they won't work properly because of the wider gap between the feet.If your not doing cording then the 144w would work if want to use it.The 111w will run smaller thread like size #69 & #92 that the 144 will have tension problems with since it was designed to use #138 & larger.

The 331K4 is the same machine w/a smaller handwheel & different casting BUT it does have reverse,but still won't sew any thicker than your 31-15.

One more fly in the ointment,starting 9/24/18 there's a 10% tariff on many goods from China & sewing machines & thread are on the list & it will be going up to 25% after 1/1/19.