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CowboyBob

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Everything posted by CowboyBob

  1. The wheel needs to be against the body so there is no gap, when you get rid of the gap,the knock will go away.When your sewing & the takeup lever pulls the thread up it makes the shaft the wheel is mounted on go left & right.All machines with the takeup lever on the end will knock if there.'s side play on the top shaft.Push & pull on the wheel & you'll hear it.Also I know it's your machine & you can do whatever you want BUT you need to put the hammer outside far away from you,parts for this machine are real hard to find.
  2. Ok,take the needle out,find some wood like a 2x4 or something & put it under the needlebar & use it as a stop,hold it careful & turn the wheel which ever way it takes to get it to spin towards the grooves on the shaft.
  3. There's 2-screws on the wheel to the shaft,if you get the other one loosened it should sin on the shaft,if not & we'll go to plan B.
  4. Constabulry is probably correct on the if the top shaft has side play the inside of the wheel will hit like that, loosen the 2-screws that hold it tight to the shaft just 1/4 of a turn & then tighten the larger screw in the center of the wheel (on the out side) to take the side play out of it.Don't overtighten the large one to much.
  5. I'll have to agree with Constabulary they really aren't that hard to work on & you can get parts machines @ Weavers auction for less than $100.00.I just sold 4-of these yesterday,it seems like I can never get time to work on them & a guy kept asking about them so it looks like they are going to a good home.When adjusted properly they make a real nice looking stitch as all needle & awl machines do.
  6. It's a good price BUT parts are hard to get,we do stock needles & awls.
  7. Frank, I'm glad to hear you have it going,We used to sell the motor w/o brushes & it is harder to adjust & doesn't seem to have the low end torque like this one.I know SV stands for special version BUT I've never seen anything from Singer explaining it.I've looked & machines before & found what the difference in they also have the 144 with SV on them.You have to put your machine side by side with another 153 & look @ every part.I think sometimes the engineers @ Singer had to look busy so they did things like this.
  8. Yes,it sounds like somebody locked it down,since there's a lockwasher on it.I think this came from a Singer 107W & the parts may be alittle different but it's all I could find so I scanned it.You can push the adjuster all the way in & then turn the B screw in & out.
  9. Maybe this cutaway diagram will help.It pivots on screw D because of the spring .Are the threads broken on the shaft for the stitch length adjuster?You have to pull the whole shaft out.It's either that or you need to take out screw A & turn screw B in more to contact the adjuster shaft.
  10. I don't like it either & sent him a note telling him so.I think it might be somebody from the factory too.But I'll find out if he writes me back.
  11. We have them in stock.
  12. When the bolt is tight the piece under it needs to move freely.
  13. Frank, Your Welcome. You might want to pull the clutch button out & see if there's some dirt under it keeping it from going all the way down.
  14. It is one of 2 things.Either the threads are broken on the end of the shaft or it just needs adjusting on the cam(see attached file) You can pull the stitch adjuster knob out & look @ the threads on the topshaft.Or you can just push the adjuster all the way in & use the screws in the diagram to adj the stitch length.Someone may have these turned out some,or maybe the shorter cscrew is missing aloowing the other one to back out do to viabration of running the machine.
  15. Ok,when your on our website,go to the 3500 or 4500 page on the lower left in the gray area it says accessories click on that & you can see the pics & prices of them. For some reason I can't cut & paste with this laptop on this site.
  16. No,Singer never made a machine like this,Juki did though.What type of foot are you having trouble finding?We have a lot of them in stock.
  17. Hello Sharon, Some of the older 31-15's were pinned & unless the pin breaks it won't go out of time,unless the needlebar gets pushed up when you break a needle.
  18. Look on this site about "Servo motor on Consew 206",Colt Knight posted some info there. I tried to cut & paste it to here but it won't work ! http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=58290&p=374877
  19. It is a 95-1 made for sewing lightweight material like shirts,dresses,drapes.It also has a leather timing belt that breaks.It also won't use thread any larger than #69 nylon. It would be better to buy a Singer 31-15 than this.
  20. Troy might be right!There's a spring down inside the bobbincase that pushes the bobbin out & once in a while it can fall out & could cause this noise.
  21. The Consew 146RB has a walking foot & zig-zag.
  22. Hey guys don't forget to stop & pick me up! I like these old ones too! I see some real nice ones there.
  23. Dan,This is a strange one!! You might want to take the race(the part that holds the shuttle in) and clean it out,you might find some thread or broken ends of needles in there.When you put it back together turn the 2-screws all the way in & back out a good 1/2 turn..Also have you ever taken the side cover off & oiled everything on the needlebar end?That might help too.
  24. If it's worse than the China 15K then that's pretty bad !! I was hoping that it was going to be a decent machine! Maybe in 20 or so years they can fix it?
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