RockyAussie

Welcome I think we will be seeing some very interesting art from you. You are off to a flying start.

Try a little talc powder it should settle down in time and use.

I watched the video above and was surprised to see the thread at section 1.3mins in being looped behind the thread return tension spring post as I have never done that and have not had any problems that I know of. I checked online and saw this video that is threaded the same as I always have. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHq0N0Umz08 I do not know if the shown example is correct. Can anyone here verify which way it should be or if it matters. The winding through of the thread on the stand at the start going through the 2 holes makes me wonder if the operator really knows what he is doing. The uneven tension on the bobbin mentioned makes me think to look into whether a new bobbin case should be tried to compare with. I always put a drop of oil onto the bobbin holding post and into the back of the bobbin case between most bobbin changes. This makes it quieter and smoother running and helps to keep the tension more reliable. Make sure the bobbins do not have any restrictions when turned in the bobbin case without any thread in. Sometimes the case can have damage from a broken needle and so on. I do prefer steel bobbins as against aluminium as I think they are less likely to pick up rubbish and do any scouring on the bobbin tube or the post. Changing the foot lift to a knee lift is quite easy and would be no problem to do. I think it is possible that you may need a good mechanic to go over it but mostly to get you to understand exactly how and why different adjustments work such as the feet tensions and how this relates to the varying thicknesses and the tightness in materials being sewn. Usually I run them as loose as possible but tight enough not to let the job lift off the table at all when starting off. There are a lot of different things involved in getting a machine to run right and unless your doing the same work all of the time a good knowledge of how to make the machine work the way you want will be true with a new machine in short time as well. Hope that helps some. Regards Brain

Wow such detail. I hope it fits her well

Where is the like button, I can't find the like button. Very nice Uwe

Very well done

Well done

No you should be safe mate. Can't talk just now the dingo needs another feed..........

If 2 top grains are used the answer is defiantly yes and I would guess by about 50% or more. The type of glue used if any would also add a further factor. If used against where the bar of the buckle comes in contact I would use the top grain to make contact. Making sure the stretch in the hide is cut in the correct way, will have a large bearing on the durability as well.

Yes that should work but make sure to use a thick welt along the stitch side and or at least block and case so as to allow the saw easy access in and out . Have fun and a Merry Christmas.

I think you may need to make a wooden block allowing a straight relief a bit like you would on a holster for the sights I guess. Might need a better saw though. Regards Brian

They are just 3k down the road and the Caves pub is a 1/2 k closer and have fantastic counter lunch. I wonder if I can get a discount for that add

Your most welcome. If you come up on a weekend there is a spare couple of beds to spend the night if you want.

That is some real handy information Uwe as always. I like the look a lot of the 205-64 as I am not a big fan of walking foot machines believe it or not. With the use of a and Variostop needle positioner and pneumatic foot lifter I can comfortably work very close to the edge of gussets and such and lift just when I want with the foot. Much of my work is done on an obsolete Pfaff 331-33/1b and although I have a couple of cylinder walking foot Adler and Pfaff they get get used very little in comparison.Check out my homemade foot for it in pic below.The larger size of the 205-64 and Cowboy/Hightex 7205W64 does make me think I will have to go and pay Steve at Singermania a visit sometime soon. Just about a 3 hour drive away I guess. Thanks again for your helpful sharing. Regards Brian. PS. Local paper did a story on our business this week see in link if you like- http://www.themorningbulletin.com.au/news/rocky-leather-factory-launches-high-end-retail-sto/3124263/#/9

Looks not too bad AussieMade and a good share with the pattern as well. Merry Christmas.

SHHHHHHush we been trying to keep quite about them

OK , I have not seen before the curly thread thing on the bobbin case so I dug in around the back of a 40' shipping container and took some somewhat dark pics on one I haven't used in a good while. By the dog foot I mean the foot with the groove in it as I have pictured in the 2nd pic. Just also check your back foot is coming down level with the base as you may not be getting the pressure down right as the needle is lifting out.Your picture looks like it is angled high at the front.

I reckon yes And isn't the Adelaide hills and a Bonnie one of the best in the world feelings. Was better back when they had a few more bends though.

I still think the thread looks wrong but is it possible to post a close up pic of the feet and in particular the dog foot. I am curious about the relief slot for the bobbin thread to follow and position in. I did a major improvement once by hollowing out more for the thicker thread and angling a bit at the same time.Just a thought if the next size down thread in bobbin is out of the question. Also is it a Tri or LR needle? If it is a round point you have no hope.

First step I would try is use the next size down thread in your bobbin. This will make it easier for the top tension to pull it up into place and look better. 2. I think the the thread looks a bit twisty and I suspect hard firm so maybe think of a thread change. 3. If the leather is stiff and hard consider can you use a softer lining. Brian

EASY- Figure out what it is you want to make and if you want to make it occasionally or in a business like way.Then ask here there and everywhere but especially people who do it already which they think is the most suitable for that job and WHY?. That done divide it all up and let us know the conclusion as many very good people here have tried to do for you. PS. I can think of over a hundred different types of machines that do very different jobs and applications and to know and explain the intricacy's of each would take up a a lot of space and time for why?

I think you have done very well for your first set and I would say keep at it, particularly if you find it fun and easy as you said. I am often amazed to see schools and video"s showing a person holding in their lap a last whilst trying to pull the upper into shape and nail as well. I have just gone down and dug out of storage a Lasting Jack which if you can get your hands on one will make the job a whole lot more fun and easy. The base allows turning 360 and the spring keeps pressure on firmly all through the process. The mirrors I added to the base in order to see the upper was locating correctly while pulling the upper around with the lasting pliers. Regards Brian

It all sucks really

Not a machine I know anything about but found this older posting which you may have missed. http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/49686-singer-153-w-103-timing-info/ May be of some help.Regards Brian

If you can smell it chances are it's not going to be good for you, a bit like smoke and fire. Here are a few idea's I have used that should help and compared to your health costs are very inexpensive. The first and second pics for dust is a good sized extractor which I have located just alongside and outside which services several machines. The third and forth pic shows what can be done with a bit of perspex and a piano hinge. This takes care of the majority of dust and the wall fan extractor takes care of any smaller floaties that escape. The fifth pic shows what can be done for a drum sander with a bit of pvc plumbing pipe and araldite. This works very well and has lasted for many years and thousands of belts. The sixth pic shows a simple piece of vacuum pipe ground out close to grinding stone and this also works very well. For glue I run flexible ducting up to the ceiling and out and this keeps the main glue fumes dragged away from the operator similar to as it is used in a welding extractor. I hope this will be of some use and encourage some of you to enjoy their leather working skills in to a good long and healthy age. Regards Brian