RockyAussie
-
Posts
3,249 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Blogs
Gallery
Everything posted by RockyAussie
-
Ha Ha well done @jimi. Just a suggestion on your stamp prints......When you extrude give a thought to putting in a taper of say 15 degrees as you go up. That means making the base polylines a little wider firstly but that makes the top edge stronger and less likely to twist under pressure. I did this procedure on the letter set I made up in an earlier post and it really improved it. Also it comes in handy for tapered pulley holes. @Matt S I wondered that when I first got mine and I can honestly say that barley a day goes by that there is not some job going through one of my printers. The new big one is almost going and ready to further ramp up production. Phone pouch forming structures will be the next big thing coming through on them. This is the first print test on the big one and its looking pretty good to me.
-
That sounds wrong to me. Normally the hook comes across the needle when it is on its way up and somewhere in the needle scarf area. As you have had the hook off I would guess that you need to loosen your hook and turn it to the right enough so that it comes across the needle when the thread loop has formed properly. As for the hook to needle gap if you put in the largest size needle in that the machine can use and set your hook so that it almost touches it, it should be alright for the other sizes.
-
Quite a few I'm afraid but mostly I use Sekisui foam Softlon 3002. (33kilo per metre) mentioned because that gives you the weight/softness. It is very easy to skive if needed on a skiving machine and takes stitching through it without creating missed stitches on a sewing machine. There are a lot of different densities with foam and thickness and it is a good idea to ask for a sample range to have on hand.
-
First thing is to check that the long needle groove is on the left. After that as @Matt S rightly said ...change the needle as a little bend is all it takes to do the above. If that don't work then you are looking at timing perhaps. As best you can watch the needle take the thread down and when it starts coming back up the hook should be coming around to grab the loop in the thread somewhere in the scarf of the needle area. If you have no loop forming then find out why. That would mean your thread is being held up by something that it should not be. If the hook does not come around as the needle scarf area is there then you have got a timing issue. If so check first that the needle bar has not been knocked high. If it is correct then you need to loosen the hook and align it so that it will come around just when the thread loop is looking nice and open. Rough I know but it will get you out of trouble.
-
Mostly I only ever use left over split leather from belt backs as a filler in my combination dress belts. In some applications it could be used elsewhere but generally the weight increase compared to the foam is not as desirable. The foam allows more flex as well.
-
Some bags I use just foam to give structure and some have a combination of a stiffener and foam on top. Most of my totes/backpacks and such use just a foam.
-
another- dcs-s3.pdf
-
Your most welcome and I hope that it all goes well. I will attach a couple of pdf's of some manuals that could help a little in some places. I see that this file may be too large by itself so I will give it a try and see how that 1 goes first. Fortuna 50 p ag.pdf
-
Yes it is painted and the rep should also be told to find out what a semi aniline leather really looks like. This is a typical upholstery grade leather and IS fully embossed. If taken to court they will lose for sure with such claims. That said these sofa's and such sometimes come with cleaning instructions and if so I doubt very much they will include diluted isopropyl alcohol. There are recolouring companies around that specialise in fixing this sort of thing and it may worth getting a quote to get that done.
-
How much of the vacuum stuff is missing? Is it only the bucket?
-
The bell speed on mine is able to be changed at the pulleys to run faster or slower but as a guide line a normal sewing machine motor will run it and fast is best normally. The manual above that @DanishMan should give you some more clues on that. As far as the feed speed goes.... although it can be set at a constant speed it is usually used like a sewing machine meaning the more foot pressure the faster it goes. When you are doing long strips you want the feed fast and when you are doing little curly stuff you want from 0 to fairly slow. I have seen a few people use 2 servo motors to do it but the bell could be run on a normal set speed motor. Note: the worst thing on these old skivers is if you have too much play up and down on the shaft that drives the bell. If it moves that way you may be wasting your time.
-
@sainte that sure looks like a lot of work . Not that it matters at this stage but I will recommend keeping in mind that it will be a good idea to split the bell drive separately from the feed stone drive. The bell runs at a fast speed always while the feed can go slow or fast then. Many years ago I had one like yours but they did not have these nice little servo motors around back then so I got rid of it.
-
CB 4500 Reverse lever slips down shortening the stitch
RockyAussie replied to Hildebrand's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Another fix I came up with awhile back you can see in this post - -
Nice picture there. I had a look for a manual but as you have no doubt found not so easy. I hope it comes together well and I look forward and thank you for sharing your progress.
-
Hi @sainte I am afraid that my old skiving machine appears to be a lot younger than this one of yours. I have done a search and found a little on this type of Fortuna and found this blog that you may find interesting. The last picture shows some of the belt track from underneath. http://bdupres.blogspot.com/2014/06/skiving-skiver.html I hope that this is of some help and you go on to get it all running. Please share a few pics as you go. Brian
-
Post some pics and we will try and help. You can see mine in use some on you tube links.
-
I can feel the pain from here ......and I live a half a world away. No just kiddin THINK POSITIVE MAN.
-
Thanks that would be great. I will be doing a bag design in the next couple of days which will have the handle hole design reinforced with pla and set in between the leather layers and then stitched through. Will take a few pics and post when I get it done. Brian
-
Best I have found is using a set of sanded down knipex nail pullers like in this link. I sand/grind the face down until the V is near flat at the front and that then allows the side edge to push in under the rivet and nip it off. I used these for many years doing shoe repairs where nails and rivets need to be removed every day. A little grinding underneath the cutting edge on one side can help a little to get in under as well. https://www.tradetools.com/product-range/hand-tools/pliers/knipex-twin-end-nipper-pack-200mm-and-280mm-68-series?gclid=Cj0KCQjwrIf3BRD1ARIsAMuugNuYzLzsHmVdER0IkTzp4O6Vdv4NdWd0Be5-QMlswvgd5boDJQETlS0aAk9QEALw_wcB
-
Easy Fix answer.......none my dear caus I know you'd make a dust cover for it. WHY do women so ask you a question when they know the answer already? Example......Is that where that belongs? Sorry I agree with Wizcrafts above. They have been in use for a very long time and will still have a good place on machines for a long time yet.
-
Thanks for the thought @Spyros I will get into having a look at his Video sometime today and a bit more on that subject he has done and report back. Funny thing is I am originally a wood machinist by trade.
-
Thanks mate I will get back to you once I round up a few of these things and have them in hand. I do have some sort of a fancy VFD out in my project shed I bought a while ago but one look at it blew my head apart right at the get go. I will dig it out and see what I can make of it firstly. I think I may be needing a 2hp motor as it may be needed to run a polishing wheel as well and they do drag a fair bit of power when polishing with a large finishing brush on them. This is one of the reasons I am thinking of using a VFD as sometimes the brushes dont polish well if going too fast and the same can be said about the sanding as well. Having one on the lathe sounds like a good idea not having to change them cogs about so much. Or are we talking about a wood lathe?
-
Thanks mate I will get back to you once I round up a few of these things and have them in hand. I do have some sort of a fancy VFD out in my project shed I bought a while ago but one look at it blew my head apart right at the get go. I will dig it out and see what I can make of it firstly. I think I may be needing a 2hp motor as it may be needed to run a polishing wheel as well and they do drag a fair bit of power when polishing with a large finishing brush on them. This is one of the reasons I am thinking of using a VFD as sometimes the brushes dont polish well if going too fast and the same can be said about the sanding as well. Having one on the lathe sounds like a good idea not having to change them cogs about so much.
-
I just tried this onto a failed print that I stopped at .8mm high. This is pla+ filament and a 160 size needle going through. I expected it to split apart but there is no sign of that. At .2mm layers printed =4 layers I suppose that is a bit like plywood in that the grain crosses over each other every other layer. Something else in the brain box to try and remember
-
Electronics is definitely not one of my strong points. I have to ask where I would get one of them remote start stop speed control things and exactly what I should ask for when ordering it? Thank you again for the above information. I am sorry to admit that I think I will be back with some more questions on this as I get some it together.