RockyAussie

That would be hard to get I think but you could try Pfaff direct. If you have a 3D printer available I could send you a file for one that I have done in order to have it smaller than the original.

Here is a couple of pics of my Pfaff 331 close in on the feed dog. My favourite machine. At about 1minute in on this video you can see it action. https://www.themorningbulletin.com.au/videos/wild-harry/43913/

I only ever use a belt sander a rag wheel mop with tripoli polish myself. Check this post out I did awhile back that shows one of the knives in action. If doing a new knife from scratch I would do a sharp belt clean up to start with to keep the heat down then redo with a bluntened off belt to smooth up following.

Well done!!!! Add some turks feet and a head and you got a pet rock dressed I think. PS ...dont forget his little mask

Looking at your picture above it appears to me that you have the thread going incorrectly in that the thread should be going from your tension discs straight up to the thread return spring and then back down to the hook then on up. Although this video shows a different machine if you check at about 2.5 minutes in you will see what I mean.

A tall post machine would do this quite easily. Remember the leather is flexible and you can do this by stitching one side first followed by the other side by flexing the leather down a little as you go then you do the bottom before pulling the corners up to be stitched across. This needs to be done on leather that doesn't crease up when pulling the corners up or turning inside out to do those corners. This sort of post would be ideal but a shorter one can manage it as well but will be more difficult. https://www.techsew.com/us/techsew-85017-high-post-walking-foot-industrial-sewing-machine.html

Check that the screw that gets undone first when adjusting the bobbin tension has not worked its way out and hitting the race occasionally. Check there is no threads stuck down in the race. If they are not the problem..... to quote a very wise Wizcrafts...

That also would be my best guess. Getting snagged at the bottom on a large spool would be about that sort of measurement I would think. Note that the knot shows its coming up higher as it comes to the missed stitches which also indicates a varying tension somewhere. Crooked sitting cone?

I would think that is too high to be much use Mick. Look at page 36 in this manual and see if that helps you. Regards Brain. inst-441.pdf

second column down and 4 across? https://www.sewingpartsonline.com/singer-14u595-sewing-machine-parts.aspx?sort.ss_cat_sort=desc&index=1 some more info here may be of help.https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/73822-parts-for-singer-29-4-patching-machine/

Break them knives down to single or at most doubles. It will work out quicker in the end and allow less wastage. The long strap knives have VERY little chance of working as the leather has no where to move between the straps except inward which means your trying to get around 5mm per strip to condense out of the way. The knives can cut better if you give them a polish with a rag wheel and tripoli polishing compound but that won't work with this set up either. Just for your information, a proper clicker press can normally cut to cut at about 30 seconds a change and gang knifing can save a little but the right gear will save a lot more.

It all depends on how they supply it. I have actually had it come all loose in a bag once. The lid I use is about 20cm if that helps. A bit wider might be better. What I did with the wood piece under the lid is get it so the height is about level with where it feeds into the prongs on the machine. Being on a heavy wood block enables me to position it where ever I want on the back of the sewing table. To me its a bit like getting a good thread run to the tension discs with the thread, You want nothing to hook up or cause any intermittent tensions as it feeds through the prongs and on into the binder shape thing. Warning some tapes feed way nicer than others and you may want to do some machine alterations in order to get the tape to feed more fully in. I removed the left side of the back foot for a start. Original in this pic Now altered below Now able to get the tape further over another 2mm and it works way better especially when going around curves and corners.

If I were to tackle this I would start off with some medium soft eva foam and sand it rounded on the edges. I have done this on a lot of bag handles in the past. This gets stuck down onto a backing leather or stiffener and then the top leather gets lightly glued down and then pushed into the hollows with a bone slicker. That then would be stitched down firm to the hollow being carful not to let the needle ride up the foam bulge. The foam allows the leather to be firmly pushed out and keep the shape nicely in place. Below are a couple of pictures of the handles I am referring to.The eva in them starts off at about 10mm thick. In the case above I would start off with about 5mm + -. Sewing machine wise you would want a roller foot or a single sided set similar to the ones in the last picture. These are just a standard set that I have sanded down with an angle grinder and they allow me to get the needle right in the spot.

Now yous gone and made me all self conscious ....I'm a going to paint that nail now. You know that,that is a real rust version I got not one of these new paint on versions of it you get nowadays. P.S. I am not going to match the paint with the cake tin lid. Doesn't matter what you say ....it won.t happen.

Welcome @Wicky. There are some real nice members down there in Sth.Aus.

Upholstery suppliers normally have it. I go through this one a fair bit- https://www.hamlinsacc.com.au/ I made up a feeder by putting a nail through a cake tin lid into a block of wood with a bearing in between.It just sits behind on the sewing table.

I can not be sure what type you have. As far as I know they only sell ones like in this link below which are a binder type configuration which has no adjustment to go lower or higher that I know about. AS they don't show any thing about them on the Toledo site I would just give them a call. In the top right hand picture in the link you can see the flat tab sticking through which means back and forward movement only. The other picture here shows more closely the tab I am referring to. https://www.cowboysew.com/335-leather-sewing-machine-for-binding.htm

Looks good to me Doc. The big machine makes me think it could have had a heavy stitch line around the edge maybe but I like the heavy lettering work all the same.

No at about 9minutes in you can not see the tab sticking through as I showed in the earlier pictures which I would take that machine to be a oscillating feed dog set up. Also a binder top plate usually has a series of prongs sticking up to feed the tape through with a little tension. Note also that Harry is doing this without a lining and skiving is also quite apparent.

This picture below may give a better perspective of the distance from the edge to the needle on a typical binder set up (9mm). This is a pic from when I was making some smaller cylinder caps for all the machines. This pic of an Adler 69 shows also a binder set up feed dog but I have done a lot off sanding with an angle grinder to get what I wanted at the time. Including the feet as well in this case.

The BUT is The low 8mm thickness it can take . Without a skiver you have to take into account how often you will have multiple thicknesses that end up too tight for the work. Your bag I am sure has more than that in places. Am I right? Now the binder type versions of these machines as in the normal 335 machines have a wider platform needle plate area to assist with holding the binding tape. That means also that the needle is 9mm from the edge not 6 or 7 mm. That means many gusset jobs just will not work very well, if at all. To visually identify the binder type styles look for the protruding tab as shown in the below picture . Machines with elliptical feed dogs will normally look like this one kindly provided by Ron at Techsew. This needle in this case is about 7mm from edge. You can see in the video above some nice looking binding work but Note: there is only one layer of leather in there and if you add to that some lining and another layer of leather and lining plus the binding itself you are quickly running out of space. Here below I am stitching a binder onto this product and this required a lot of skiving on edges to enable this thickness to be possible Note at the bottom of zip more thicknesses to accommodate Now turned in the right side out you can see a LOT more thicknesses had to be fitted in as well This motorcycle tool bag edge could not be sewn on a binder type machine due to needle tooo far from edge. SOOOOO the BUT is unless you are planning on a skiver in the budget pretty quick..... Go bigger. There are cheap ones there as well.

That is a very poorly described machine but to me it looks the same as the other 2 mentioned before. Like the Techsew 2600 which has an elliptical type feed dog as standard I think these others all do as well. The pfaff 335 standard comes with only a back and forward motion with out a drop down unless you get the "P" version which is pretty rare to find. I think that you are going to want to run a thicker thread and a thicker material capability than these machines you have found offer. Have another look at the CB227R /Techsew 2700 /Consew 227R and any other of the similar clones. Better thickness capability both in thread and leather sewing thickness. Cheaper but at the expense of a G bobbin instead of the M bobbin. If you plan on doing a LOT of belts move up to the Juki LS 341 clones with the larger M bobbins. I mentioned these earlier in the post.

In Australia.......when they are big enough to not need it. GRANTS in Australia.................

Nice looking work there.

Not sure about its capacity. I would have thought 10mm but in this manual it says 8mm or less on firm stuff. As for the bobbin size I would check with the seller. https://globalsew.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/WF-35-manual.pdf