RockyAussie

It can be done to some degree with one set of holes cut to the edge but it is quicker and easier to weave them together when both sets are done. (once you get the hang of the technique. Do 2 strips with evenly spaced holes and slits and see what I mean. Where possible it is better to not have any arrow head but when you do a curve join it is necessary in order to give the leather somewhere to go with out needing to overlap. I do not recommend putting in curved corners as I did as it is very hard to get around weaving the curve together. I ended up cheating on the base line and stitching both sides closed on the hole outsides in order to stop them coming apart as I tried to get around the corners.It worked but was an unnecessary part of the design unless you want to do it in expensive exotic skin where using small pieces become desirable.

Is that crack along the top of a bag flap? If so a piece of leather integrating a handle support idea may work. A picture showing the full width of the article may help.

I would need to see a picture of this to understand I think. When I have done any patterning on this it has been with regard to the size of hole punch I want to use firstly. Either side of the pattern has to have the holes falling exactly between the holes on the other side. As you can see in my drawing above the hole size is exactly the width between the holes as the hole size itself. the distance in from the edge to the centre of the hole is determined somewhat by the leather thickness but also for setting the thickness that I want the pouch to be. In the pictures above showing the pouch I made for a phone, I decided that a 7mm punch centred at 14mm apart would work and 8.5mm in from the edge to the centre of the hole. This gives roughly a 17mm opening inside the pouch when weaved together. If I wanted a wider opening I could come in from the edge further as long as the pattern was made larger for the article to be placed within later. depending on the leather stiffness it may need to have the tabs that get woven in to be glued down as well to form the box shape more. This is fairly easy patterning with Cad drawing programs but a fair lot of work without I would think. I must add that how I describe the method above is only one that I worked out for myself and other people may use other methods which may be better.

I was thinking that a bolting a box something like this one in the link below, mounted on the front of the 335 perhaps to some angle iron would allow a pulley to line up with the machines top pulley and a hand wheel of sorts connected to the front. One off a patcher would be great but probably a little overkill. http://www.screw-jack.com/tiny-right-angle-gear-box.html

Looks nice. Well done

Very good idea. That should help to see if that motion can do what you want or not safely. If it is in a foot treadle you may want to try it with out the belt connected as well if he is willing.

Normally when I strap/rope something down you could turn the trailer or vehicle upside down and not lose the load. It DOES NOT work with sewing machines as I have learnt the hard way. Even with the head out they want to not stay upright and laying them on mattresses can still bend things around I found. I say get some blocks of wood and tape them to the back of the head until laying down they can not bend anything. If they are laying down they cant fall and break and bend things but still they'll slide around if you don't secure it more than you can imagine. Putting one of those rubber toothy door mats under helps some as well.

Are you trying to load all the stl's together. Most stl's I do are way down in size compared to the 1.4mega you can load in one go here on LW. I have found that if the load fails when you go too high you need to go off and come back and start again. The previous writing you've done will be remembered and put there again and you only need to put in the smaller file size (less than 1.4mg) This bobbin carrier done in my AutoCad is only 39kb. BOBBIN CARRIER.stl

Nice looking clips and nice work shown on the insta as well. Would be interested to know pricing and quantities including the larger ones.. You could pm message me here if you prefer. Note I am in Australia.

I did once have a old friend build one up for me using the brazing method and it held up well for years. Machining was just a file and fine wet and dry by hand and eye.

Thanks ...the lasts look alright. When you do your toe 1st pulling you should see the heel counter cup in around at the top line. It appears to me that your curve has not enough swell at the lower side compared to the top but that may be just the picture perhaps.

Could you post a picture side on of just the last?I am curious to see the shape that you are starting with. The quarters look to be too high on where they connect to your vamp and the backward angle of your heel counter also makes me think this. Also I think your top line pattern may be too high on your last giving you an oversized upper to try and deal with. I must congratulate you on your efforts so far and thank you for sharing your journey with us all on here.

Toms right. I just use a battery hand drill with a hole punch down on to a plastic kitchen cutting board. Same thing works well for sharpening the punch onto a fine sanding belt as well. Try going through something like this without a drill and punch.

If the 335 does the work they way you want it may pay to try and adapt it to suit your needs. A singer patcher has a nice front or end handwheel control system but they tend to not stitch that nicely compared to most sewing machines. Not at least without years of practice any ways. At the base on a 335 there is a lot of free room for bolting on attachments and I would think if you were to have a talk with a sewing machine repair man it may be possible to come up with a way to bring a pulley and belt to the bottom front and construct a right angle gear arrangement to mount a hand wheel onto at the front. I don't know much about Parkinson's but I think that means that you are not able to always control the muscles reliably as you would want. Whether you used a motor to slow it down or not would probably not make it much safer for you to use. I have seen many other people on here that for one reason or another would like to have hand control machines and I think that if you come up with something (adapter kit) there would be a fair bit of market interest. There are many little right angle reduction gearboxes available online now days sooo .....maybe not so hard.

Yep. Quick if you got a whole heap to do.

Fish tank air bubbler hose. Cut to length and slice up the side and push it over the clip. Silicon it on if used a lot.

Very nice work. I like the handle holding loops in particular. On the pla+ filament I use I have found that in some areas you can get a good smooth surface by using a temperature controlled soldering iron and a bit of rubbing. I look forward to seeing more of your work in future.

Highly unlikely you will ever need to need it. Time to replace the machine before that part would ever go.

You can get very good results without going over the top of the leather if you want and it does not matter on the underside generally. If you see how I did a handcuff pouch in this post should make it clearer. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/77677-how-to-make-a-press-for-moulding-leather-pouches-and-such/?page=2 For the fill you may use 20 % but keep in mind that you can put in posts hidden inside and the wall thickness you give on the outside inside can give a lot of strength where you may want it. Sometimes a hole once given say a 2mm wall thickness becomes a very strong support pipe if you get what I mean.That can be drawn inside the solid as a hollow tube and the wall thickness takes care of the rest. This is how you can reduce the print time and still have very strong parts. In the handcuff pouch although the holes on the outside could allow bolting together they are actually there in case I wished to clamp the parts together and the holes are really support poles in use.

I look forward to seeing the progress pics as you go and hope to hear some good news on the machine as well of course.

Oh so true. I wish I had this technology around 20 + years ago. So many products in production I make every day would be made differently and quicker with the aid of the 3d printer and laser I now use. Barely a day goes by that another new thing is being designed and printed.

Just FANTASTIC is all I can think to say.

Very well done and thanks for sharing.

The one in the video above I bought from the Cowboy seller here in Australia. The brass one in the other video's on my youtube are just ones that I have made myself by cutting down some standard feet and building on from there. You might find something in this AliExpress page of interest such as number 18 for $6.55 au or number 20 for $17.23 au. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33049213271.html This post I did awhile back shows both the one I made and the other above with alterations I had to do.