kgg

When I contact Juki about another model about a year ago I did ask if the 1541S was still being made in Japan. At that time they were but had moved production of some models to the China and I think Vietnam. Will the quality remain the same, only time will tell. But their warranty is the same no matter where they are made. The best thing to do would be to drop them a email to be sure or a dealer as the box will say where it is made.

For me that would be an easy decision. Juki, as their 1541S model is still made in Japan. Why buy a forgery from an unknown manufacturer with unknown parts that will have less value later on. Remember that the "Name" on the clone machines are not that of the manufacturer and quality can vary greatly. kgg

I think having a safety clutch is essential on any machine. The extra $100 could save you a lot of dollars and frustration should you jam up the machine. If money is not the main factor always buy a brand name machine like Juki. When you eventually decide to replace the machine it will be easier to sell and will have a higher resale value then that of similar clone machine. Buy Once, Cry Once kgg

I have a couple of friends who are into quilting, talk about sticker shock. New machines now range from $5000 to $10000 then you need a sewing frame so add another $1000 to $3000 and if you want to automation add another $5000 to $10000. kgg

I don't think you are being picky. I think quality usually correlates to the like most things, price. If you pay top dollar for a top quality item (leather shouldn't be any different) your expectation is to get top quality. If not return it for a full refund and shop elsewhere. During these Covid times it's probably has been difficult for a lot tanneries and suppliers to provide all their grades but this shouldn't be a pass to send a lower quality hide then what you paid for in hopes you don't notice the difference. kgg

Excellent. kgg

I think is a cautionary tale to all of us. The non compete probably isn't that uncommon once things are all signed up legal like but the no pictures part to me is questionable. You may have problems proving the quality of your work, what the tack set actually looked like, materials used in the construction and that the sampled was asked for. I really hope things work out and are just delayed as a result of the Covid-19. A good old fashion phone call maybe in order as well, sometimes emails wind up in the persons junk box and are never seen. Maybe contact the social media platforms they are active on or the BBB to help with investigating and determine if it is just some sort of legitimate error or a scam. kgg

I thought the video with the Singer was slower then the other one. Maybe just me. Either will give you the control for those places where you need really slow precise thread placement control. Nice simple speed reducer setup. kgg

I tried my metric set of dies / taps and they weren't even close. The 16 was to large, then I started with the 5/8 x 11 and worked up. The closest I could come when nothing else really worked (metric or English) was with using the tread gauge. That then drove me down into the thread design rabbit hole. Don't what to do that again, it was frustrating to do in Fusion 360. kgg

Interesting the speed difference between the two machines using the same motor and same size handwheel. kgg

Thank you dikman. I am working on strap folder using a free domestic sewing machine motor, we'll see how that goes. Proprietary threading is a way but if they really wanted to have a custom thread they should have used a left hand 13 twist to really fool with customers. Sort of remains me of Singer threading. kgg

That is nice work. kgg

I came across a table mounted fabric hole press at auction for about $25 made by Joel & Aronoff called "The J & A Patch Press" which I believe are made at some point in England. All it needed was a little cleaning and some oil. Having a fabric hole press wasn't what I wanted, it had to do more. I only need a press to do two simple things i) accurately punch holes for rivets and ii) press my logo into leather. The main problem I came across while doing this little conversion was the 5/8 " punch bolt and internal threaded rod. The round nut, punch bolt and the internal threaded rod have an unusual thread twist of 13. Normally I would have printed a 5/8 x 11 or 12 or 14 and run a die over to clean up the thread. Noooo, not this one it was a 5/8 x13 or maybe a even 13.25 which I confirmed with a thread gauge. That sent me down the rabbit hole of designing a 5/8 x 13 thread. A proper die would have be very costly at around $400 while my time is cheap. You got to love priority threads. Even through it has a small travel of 16mm it does work for what I need. This may give others an idea of converting other equipment to do other things that it wasn't designed for. Photo 1: Shows how it came, with a Aluminum 24.6 mm, another odd size, hole punch. Photo 2: Shows the pieces that screw the three punch parts into a thread rod in the press head. I place the parts on the HDPE pad that came with the press. The round nut is use to set / lock the travel of the punch bolt while the punch is held in place on the bolt with a simple set screw that fits into a hollow formed at the head of the punch bolt. Photo 3: Shows my 3D printed logo using the original punch bolt using and using a simple set screw attachment like the hole punch has. Photo 4: Shows my 3D printed logo which I made in two parts so I can change to different imprinting attachments at latter date. Photo 5: Shows the hollow hole punch that I cut down set in a mini chuck that has a 3D printed adapter so it can be screwed into the internal threaded rod. Photo 6: Shows the cut down punch, the mini chuck and the adapter that the mini chuck screws into (3/8" X 24) and also screws into the internal threaded rod (5/8" X13). Photo 7. Hole punched in approximately 4 oz, logo without any damping and a logo with slight damping applied to the leather.

Looks to me like it was done using a machine. I guess they used their hands to guide it through a machine and the pieces were sewn together so... " Hand Sewn ". Hopefully this type of item doesn't fool many people. kgg

I wouldn't consider buying the machine mainly as replacement parts are going to be expensive. I would look for something from a dealer either a new or refurbished machine. Either way they can help with the machine setup for your needs. To me this machine sounds like it was bought as a quick flip and/or has other hidden problems. kgg

Also you may want to view the topic and discussion around a new Consew servo motor ------ "Need Help with new Servo Motor install and Needle Positioner " kgg

A lot of people find the needle positioner good but.... but not all are equal or work properly with all combinations of digital servo motors. If you are considering a needle positioner buy the complete setup (motor / speed reducer / needle positioner) all at one time from a company that have a proven combination setup. As far as servo motors you basically got two options i) a good old fashion proven brush servo motor with a small knob speed dial or ii) a digital controlled brush-less servo motor. One of the problems with the digital servo motors is the number of internal coils that the motor is constructed with. The more coils the better the control and torque for the motor. I suspect the cheaper ones have 6 or maybe 9 coils. A good 12 coil digital servo motor would be similar to the Reliable Sewquiet (www.reliablecorporation.com/products/sewquiet-6000sm-servomotor ) or the Sailrite clone. My thought is for most use, a brush servo motor if it is properly broken in under no load, should provide a lot of decent reliable service. I have this type on three of my machines Juki 1181n, Juki 1541 S and Kobe LS -1341 (Juki 341 clone). kgg

If it is like other 335 class machines you will be limited to either V69 or V92 thread. kgg

Looking at the photo again I agree the back very well may have be hacked off as well. I hope they didn't spend much for the machine. kgg

What I see from your photo: Threading: i) The first double hole top thread guide pin which probably sits in the hole in the top of the machine located just behind and above the letter "t" in brother. ii) Don't see a thread thread take-up arm, maybe just the angle with the sewing light hiding it. iii) Top Thread Take-up arm is missing the protective arm that prevents things like you light from striking the take-up arm as it cycles through it's sewing cycle iv) Top Thread Guide just before the needle is missing v) The Front Bobbin Cover (nose) is missing. Structural: i) The machine appears to have received a serve knock that removed the front left corner of the base. ii) The machines appears to have had a very heavy coat of paint applied. This maybe covering structural cracks. iii) Top Belt Pulley maybe not original? Identification: i) Your machine looks very similar to a Taking TK-335 so the following video ( www.youtube.com/watch?v=t52VC4KCZpM )should help you with threading and missing pieces. If it is a 335 class machine you will probably be limited to V92 thread. ii) The model nameplate is missing. Do you know what model it is??? hope this helps kgg

I agree particularly bobbins as they sometimes are not balanced but usually the center shaft can be either to small or to large. I have seen some bobbins so bad that when you try to wind thread on them they actually wobble on the winder so you can imagine what they are doing when inserted. kgg

Pretty good use for the holster since they normally don't carry side arms. kgg

I think this is very ingenious, a true "KISS" solution. Yes, this could be done on a 3d printer or laser but I like the simplicity of your solution. Even through I have multi 3d printers, which I dearly enjoy using, your solution for a one of or so is a good practical low cost solution that anyone could do. Not everyone wants to invest the time, money, effort or can afford the investment into more complicated solutions. kgg

Having insurance is either a waste of money or a savior. If you never have a problem the insurance premiums were like flushing good money down the toilet but God forbid any goes wrong it can save you and your family from being financially ruined. Just like insuring your home you get replacement house / belongings insurance. Hopefully you never need it but if something like a total loss happens you will be covered. That I can speak of from personal experience. kgg

Have you tried stopping the machine so the awl is still buried while the pressor foot is just off the leather. At that point you should be able to turn the leather 90 degrees and continue sewing. kgg