kgg

Reliable has been around since 1955.

Totally Agree! kgg

I have in the past own a Reliable Barracuda and had no issues whatsoever with it. It came with a test strip under the foot of what the machine was sewn off before shipment and worked properly out of the box. The warranty as with the 4300Cw was defined. I still can't figure out for the life of me what a limited lifetime warranty gets you, maybe just me. When I was looking for a flatbed machine I compared a lot of machines for what I thought I wanted / needed. Reliable was my number two choice. My number one was a Juki 1541S, which I bought from Chris at Japan Sewing Machine and Supply C. ( http://japansewing.com/ ). Their website is terrible but once I called and spoke to Chris about what I was planning on using it for they gave me some choices, Juki or their clone, depending on the pocket book. They had a machine setup for me to test on my arrival, no BS and went over the machine with me. None of the clones I tested came close to the quality of the Juki. Since you are probably close to Toronto I would call them first. They carry Juki and their own line of Juki clones. The price I paid for my new Juki 1541S was cheaper then what some wanted for a comparable clone. With such a large layout of cash make a trip too both Reliable and Japan Sewing they are about 25 minutes from one and another. Bring some of your stuff along and do a comparison sew off. Buy Once, Cry Once. kgg

I agree, knock off or clone, not good. Clone -- A copy or imitation of something already existing, especially when designed to simulate it. kgg

Guns are just tools just like a hammer. Some people for whatever their reason or need will carry either a hammer or gun in the middle of the back. Accidents do and can happen. Personally I don't think I would carry in that body location from a comfort point of view carry in that location. Someone who is trained will carry and store their gun in a safe manner. kgg

Thanks mikesc for the link to an interesting article about brass and you might know California Proposition 65 be in there as well. kgg

I would make a waterproof cover for your machine and put a moisture absorbing pad inside it. I would use the large ones like you use in an motorhome particularly if you are going to have large temperature swings in the garage. kgg

I maybe wrong but I would consider the Bernina 910 hook as being a class 15 based on the bobbin needed is a class 15. The bobbins for the Bernina are probably slightly different in height/diameter and shape when compared to those of the Singers you mentioned. kgg

That is why you need to go and test drive a machine. Buy from someone with a good reputation who will stand behind their machines. Best of luck on that one. kgg

It all depends on what ones needs are going to be. Either brush or brushless servo motors are going to be a good quite, controllable and cost effective solution over clutch motors in most cases. Servo motors that have brushes are more the type that you see being offered on relatively inexpensive sewing machine setups that will probably work great on light fabric / light upholstery rated machines where bottom end startup torque isn't going to be a typical problem. The brushless type is more suited for heavier work of multiple layers of thick materials / leather where the bottom end torque is going to be the priority. Within both brush and brushless servo motors you can have a large variance of quality and it will depend on the what performance specs were ordered. My rule of thumb would be the more coils the motor has the better the performance ( power consumption, noise, longevity, torque, etc. ). A 12 coil servo motor will be better then a 6 coil if the quality of the controls etc. are equal. I think in some cases investing in a servo motor or upgrading the servo motor from brush to brushless maybe a better overall solution then adding a speed reducer pulley but that will depend on the users needs. kgg

Any chance of adding a couple of photo's of the thread path from the thread spool to the tip of the needle as well as the size of needle and thread you are using. Do as Wiz has suggested and check the way you are inserting the bobbin in the bobbin case. If it is inserted incorrectly you can get inconsistent bobbin tension issues. kgg

If you didn't get the manual for your servo motor from Techsew you should request a copy. The manual should detail the motors manufacturer / operation / functions / replacement parts etc. I don't think the statement you quoted isn't really helpful in figuring out the motors capabilities. Any working motor should eventually stop when the pedal is released. kgg

The main question is what do you want to make. Is it going to be mostly wallets, bags or holsters. Then decide what your budget is and from those decisions you can narrow down your machine choices, new /used, brand name / clone, flatbed / cylinder / post / patcher. Remember that no machine can do it all. kgg

The Sailrite portable LSZ-1 are rated up to a #22 needle (135 x16 or 135 x17) needle which should take a V138 thread but further looking at specs it is rated only to V92. The Tandy Craftool® Pro Stitch Master® Sewing Machine has the same thread and needle specs. The only one that I know that will handle V138 in that class of sewing machine is the Reliable Barracuda. I wouldn't consider or class any of the portable walking foot sewing machines as industrial. They do have their place and can to decent work but. I think the machining quality of the hook is going to be dependant on the actual manufacturer (brand name vs clone) (German vs Japanese vs Taiwanese vs Chinese). kgg

As a quick hand wheel stiffness test remove the drive belt from the motor pulley and then try turning the hand wheel as per the instructions. It should move fairly easily but it will be stiffer then a domestic sewing machine. Just the physical size difference of machine and internal parts. If the hand wheel is really stiff or you notice something else like crunching you should contact Techsew. It probably would be a good idea to contact Techsew anyway they probably have a video on step by step instructions for setup or would be able to walk you through it and answer questions during the setup. kgg

We still accept Visa and MC mostly for US clients but discourage it as it does cost us a percentage, etc. Never used Paypal and probably won't. Since we are in Canada our preferred method is e-transfer. Funds are transfer directly from the clients account directly to ours by email. No cost to us. kgg

If you purchase a machine to be profitable buy new. A used machine is going to have to be in peak operating condition which based on the photos those are not. Ask yourself how much money is it going take to bring them to a proper / dependable operating condition verses the cost of a new machine. I would pass on all three machines based solely on their wear patterns on the beds as it indicates to me a lot of use with an unknown amount of maintenance. kgg

have nothing to do with those machines it was only for info purposes. Not even in that part of the province. kgg

I just figured the same thing. Also to show what to expect to pay for a second hand Juki LU-341 in Ontario, Canada. A new LU-1341 I think replaced the LU-341 is in the $5000 US ($6500) range A new LU- 1560n which is a double needle machine is in the $4000 US ($5000 CA) kgg

For someone in the market for a cylinder machine as there have been some recent discussion on this type of machine. There are two Juki LS- 341N listed in the western Ontario area for $1200 Canadian or approximately $900 US https://www.kijiji.ca/v-other-business-industrial/hamilton/juki-industrial-sewing-machines-for-sale/1452090961?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true kgg

I would think the bag that you linked to probably is constructed with more then one type of machine, flatbed for certain sections and patcher / cylinder bed for other sections. The Juki LU-2212n-7 you mentioned is a production type machine that is for sure. I am not a lover of any sewing machine that is computer controlled for the hobbyist like most of us. They are in my opinion meant for factory type production with regular maintenance and repairs being done by qualified people. The more the bells and whistles the more costly up front as well as repairs. The main problem as how I see it is going to be a question of the availability of replacement computer controllers, etc down the road let alone their cost. kgg

Since you are using sunbrella and canvas have to tried to make your own straps out of those materials? You have all the necessary strap connections and probably scrap / leftover material. kgg

It is nice to know and offer suggestions to your employer about correcting the machine but it is the employers decision to have the necessary repairs done or let the machine fall apart. There is business model where you run machinery til it fails and then replace it. He may have made the decision to replace the machine(s) and figures why put any money into them until failure. So if your employer doesn't mine having equipment not preforming properly and it's related costs in additional labour or reduced quality of product being produced then I wouldn't worry about it. His business model / decision not yours. Definitely wouldn't put my money into any machine owned by an employer unless I was going to get reimbursed for the out of pocket expense. kgg

Kids generally tend too be tough on stuff. When I have seen fraying that results in shedding like that either the nylon is being constantly rubbed / nicked against something, the nylon is less then good quality or to many stitches per inch in the stitch used to attach the material. I would suggest reducing your number of stitches per inch and or using a different type nylon that would be stiffer but more abrasive resistant. If the stitches are to close together the stitch will basically cut the fibres of the material. kgg

The issue was discussed in a topic called " Juki lu 563 knee lifter spring setup / tension " back in January by Eastelite. This also has a video in one of the posts that my be helpful in comparing your setup. kgg