wolvenstien

I do the same for the most part... I will do my best to dye while the leather is still slightly cased. I get a most even color, and have not had problems with the colors lightening or anything.

Please post prices and what you get for the prices.... and set up fees and any and all behind the scenes fees. Thanks

Hide, Yeah, nothing like the ppad... and I guess I wasnt clear enough... this is not the main seat, its the p-seat.... cant do it like the ppad... http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=692 I will get pix of the pan and pad on the pseat tomorrow and post em, give you a clear idea what i am doing... Leather will be 3-4 oz for the gusset/sides. Sides will wrap around without seam from front back to the front and seam in the front, tuck around under the pad to staple to the plastic pan, and then top will seam in an oval to the sides. In the back, I want to tool it, but I will have to stretch the leather and form it around the contours of the sides of the pad and pan.

Welcome to the site.... I cant help ya, I have tried some of the tandy.... and didnt like it, and they have shown that they are not ready to be oin the market by pulling several of their colors.... Best thing I can say is have then mailed to someone outside of the republic of Ca and then have that friend mail them into you....

Welcome to the leatherworker.....

You know, that is quite unique.... I have never done an inverted.... and seeing the two together like that of the same pattern.... Very cool.

Ok, I have never wet molded before... well... not really... and I need advice. I am about to start my rear seat and have decided to stretch/mold the side gusset to fit, and wrap it under the bottom to staple to the pan. I then intend to round braid lace the top to the sides and be complete, but, before I finish with the sides, I want to put a carving onto the gusset. Can I tool it then stretch the leather, and the carving be left intact? I understand that I look at distorting the carving, but would it mess up the depth of the carving and the tooling? Should I tool it after I have stretched it an allow it to dry? How would you do this? If I haven't explained myself clearly and you need farther explanation of what I am trying to be, just ask, and I will try to post pix and make it clear what I am asking. Thanks Mike

Something you will notice with dying, and I think this applies to all types of dye, be it oil dye, water based, or what have you, that you can apply it thinly, and it will go on light; dip your brush in the dye, then blot the brush on a scrap piece of leather or on a paper towel, and then apply to the project. You will notice that is is lighter, but the more coats you apply, the darker it gets. There is a technique (which I do not know) of going from one color to another, and in doing so the color has to get lighter and lighter until it starts to change to the new color then that new color starts getting darker....

Froggy, Your package showed up today! Thank you so very much! This is a very cool set of items to add to the auction/raffle. I havent opened the box yet, I figure i will leave it on the shelf where it is sealed until the day of the Event. Again, Thank you very much. Mike

Happy you are not able to surf like the rest of us!

jspade, First off, welcome to the leatherworker.... Second... if you are anything like most of us, you will never get over being embarrassed of your work... so post the pix anyways... you will get good criticism, no one here will say anything negative with the intention of hurting you. Post your pix, you will get great help in improving your style. Third... coloring, dying, finishing.... I bought a DVD at tandy titled: "Dying & Finishing with George Hurst" and I watched it several times. It taught me the basics, but it left me with a lot of unanswered questions too. Are you near a Tandy store? They have a compatibility sheet that is free, that also helped me out greatly. I cant scan it, but here is a copy: COMPATIBILITY CHART Use the chart to tell what can go over what... Like this: I carve a flower, and I want to use Fiebing's Antique Finish, but I dont know what to use over to seal it. So I look at the chart and it tells me that the following are ok: Super Shene, Super Shene Spray, Satin Shene, Block-out Resist & Top Coat, Neat-Lac Leather Finish, Leather Sheen, Leather Sheen Spray, Institutional Finish, Acrylic Resolene, Saddle-Lac Spray Balm W/ Atom Wax, and finally Tan Kote. The only finish listed that is not compatible with the Fiebing's Antique Finish is Carnuba Creme. Now you have to pick a finish from your supplies... lets say we pick Acrylic Resolene, so we go back down the list and check the "special codes" and we see that we get an AB code... A: Will pick up some color. B: Remove excess ANTIQUE from smooth surfaces & allow to dry or FINISH may streak, crack and flake off. So now I know that if I want to continue to use the Resolene, I need to follow the special instructions. Now... whats covered in the DVD I mentioned but not on the chart is other uses of Block-out... since you didnt go into detail, I am only assuming you used blockout as a finish... So lets say we are doing another carving of a flower. We want the surrounding of the flower to be brown, and the flower to be red, with green leaves and stem. We use any dye... I have tandy dyes (not the new eco stuff) and I use a small paint brush and paint the red, then clean the brush with thinner and then do the green. I then clean the brush again, and get the block-out and use the blockout over all the flower areas I dyed. I go over a few times to make sure I didnt miss any parts. Then after I allow the block-out to dry, I get the antique brown out and apply it over the whole piece of leather. but I then go back and wipe it off especially over the area of the flower. The blockout will wipe off a little bit which is fine as it has done its job to protect the dyed area from getting colored by the antique. Then you apply a finish that is compatible to both the antique and the type of dye you used to dye with. Most times I personally use a small piece of leather to test everything on to see if I will get the outcome I am expecting to get. I am not sure what you mean when you say the blockout made your leather darker..... blockout if not supposed to soak into the leather, just stand on top of the leather.... so i cant explain that to you. Might have something to do with the leather itself. For the most part, it is something you have to learn for yourself, no one here can sit and explain the art of dying and finishing.... they can explain how they do it, but thats about it. You have to learn the basics, and then build from there and learn your own art.... you can get good tips and tricks from some of the awesome artists here.... LOL, looking back at this... I am embarrassed to hit the post button... but... I am going to... Be well, and again, welcome to the leatherworker forum! Mike AKA Wolvie

Clay, havent you realized by now that we blame you for everything..... Freak... well done... did you create this from scratch? or pattern it after something?

Ive seen one like that, but it would have to be posted in the adult section.....

Welcome, welcome, welcome

sweetleaf in black.... huh....

Yeah.... well..... what can ya do.....?

thats tight.... what did you use for the backgrounding?

very nice DC

Pip, good question..... I too have been curious about this.... Thanks Marlon and Tammy for your answers...

Very nice..... Try to get pix from the customer one it is mounted too

Greg.... can you give some more info.... are you saying there is a tannery in Tennessee?

Welcome to the forum. Any help you need, ask it, and I am sure someone here will be more than happy to assist you. Bienvenido al foro. Cualquier ayuda que necesita, pregunte a él, y estoy seguro de que alguien aquí será más que encantado de ayudarle.

Bruce... thats a very nice deal.... wish i had the money....

You built a replica of the stohlman workbench? I want pix....

Welcome to the forum!