chuck123wapati

if it didn't work they probably wouldn't have used it for their ammo either what is nice is it only takes one hand to get out your ammo. But i would go with the shot pouch pictured above too. it could be carried by a strap or around your neck. Here is the pattern pack i meant to show you three different patterns hope it helps.https://tandyleather.com/blogs/leathercraft-library/black-powder-bags-and-pouches-1966

https://tandyleather.com/blogs/leathercraft-library/percussion-pistol-pattern-pak-2691

very nice work!

i have an old sears kenmore. yea NO! It wont sew leather! and its not worth the money they want for sewing fabric. If you look at the picture of it sewing 1/4" you can see there is no thread in the machine and the needle holes are already sewn. LOL. They spend far to many words trying to convince you its a good machine.

I am very sorry for your loss, i too love the critters and have had many bless my life.

Why would you want to change? That is some of the best IMO.

where do you get the repurposed leather? Is it cleaned first? what type of leather?

that young man is using a fine grit stone for one thing, you are using a more aggressive grit and by the pictures you are cutting a new angle, i can see at least three angles so your not hitting the right spot, not even touching the original edge yet. Take a black sharpie and cover you r edge then make a pass and you can see where you are removing metal. You will have to correct what you have created first so stick with you diamond stone until you get one nice flat angle. Once you get the angle repaired then go on to finer stones. then what ever you use to polish your edge, strops are ok but another learning curve i would suggest a vey fine sandpaper glued to a very flat surface like your pounding granite or even a piece of glass i use a 1000 grit then a 2000 grit. The reason i suggest the sandpaper is its the same process as you use with a stones so you don't have to learn another technique. Sharpening isn't hard or rocket science , its about repeatability and practice you don't need an exact angle but you need one straight flat angle of about 15 degrees+ - You can always buy something like this it will solve you r problems!! https://www.woodcraft.com/products/honing-guide?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA&utm_term=03A21&adlclid=72d0de072a781159cccebc0a28524759&msclkid=72d0de072a781159cccebc0a28524759&utm_content=All Products

you may be able to finds answers easier and faster Use the search feature. or do what i just did open the main tab on "how do i do that "thread scroll down.

I built one and here are my suggestions. Mine is 3" works fine. width is dependent upon what you make and personal preference i think. Mine is made so i can sit on a chair and sit on the base to use it so its short not good ! it needs enough space lengthwise between the jaws for what you think you may be sewing. The top jaw angle is important because it needs to be angled enough so you can use your awl close to the jaws without hitting your hand or haft plus you need the clearance for sewing also. I would add the rotating base i have to turn my whole thing around or turn the work piece plus the old saying its better to have it and not need it...... lastly anything sticking out like the jaw tightening setup will catch your sewing thread every time so you have to figure that out as well... good luck and welcome to the more more things to make club. There is a stitching pony pattern in Stohlmans "the Art of Hand Sewing" also.

width? duh nevermind!!

could be Wyoming! Beautiful!!

beautiful work do you have a machine for those patterns or do you hand punch them? Its an awesome look.

let someone else read it for you? That is the dumbest thing I've ever heard of! Its called reading comprehension learn it and use it. Used to be taught in schools. here start with this one. https://www.amazon.com/Deliberate-Dumbing-Abridged-Charlotte-2011-05-03/dp/B01FGMTF02

wowzers you pulled out all the stops on that. That knife work inside is amazing.

you can moisten the loops only with a paint brush dont wet from the whole belt.

does sound fun with BP loads at least you can load them down a bit i have that one shell in my collection, its a flat slug, I'll bet it would rock your world in a shortened barrel lol must weigh an ounce and a half at least.

I did once! lol

it shows up a bit on a couple. Take two shells lay them on a table take your strap and tightly push it down both sides till it touches the table. mark where it touches move the shells lay it flat and measure it that is how much leather you need for each loop you can then stamp in the right places. you can wet form that indentation if you want it in after its sewn on just wet it and run a burnisher up and down the shells i would be careful though you could stretch the leather and make the loops to loose. Very cool old belt! also if you make it exactly the same stitch around those corners up to the main belt farther so the liner doesn't curl up on the ends but dont stitch all the way lol. Man shoots a biiiiiig gun!

Awesome info right here!! From someone who actually uses them! Thank you.

you shouldn't need to wet mold them. Stamp burnish then sew it on. 10 gauge, you may need suspenders too lol.

so whats you point? You have proven you don't really need a video , 24 /7 backup, instant service and training if you know what you are doing. Plus you almost bought something and almost knew how well the service was? but they didn't really have a dealer in you whole country to go to for service even for a hundreds of thousands of dollar machine.

You can see the leather is formed around the head right at the base of the handle past your welt, at least that's what the photo looks like Smashing the welt there probably helped also. Your welt works until the head gets wider, then the leather forms around the head, that's what pulled your top down in the back.

very cool !!! osha would have a s*&t fit and fall back in it here in the states lol.