chuck123wapati

you may be able to finds answers easier and faster Use the search feature. or do what i just did open the main tab on "how do i do that "thread scroll down.

I built one and here are my suggestions. Mine is 3" works fine. width is dependent upon what you make and personal preference i think. Mine is made so i can sit on a chair and sit on the base to use it so its short not good ! it needs enough space lengthwise between the jaws for what you think you may be sewing. The top jaw angle is important because it needs to be angled enough so you can use your awl close to the jaws without hitting your hand or haft plus you need the clearance for sewing also. I would add the rotating base i have to turn my whole thing around or turn the work piece plus the old saying its better to have it and not need it...... lastly anything sticking out like the jaw tightening setup will catch your sewing thread every time so you have to figure that out as well... good luck and welcome to the more more things to make club. There is a stitching pony pattern in Stohlmans "the Art of Hand Sewing" also.

width? duh nevermind!!

could be Wyoming! Beautiful!!

beautiful work do you have a machine for those patterns or do you hand punch them? Its an awesome look.

let someone else read it for you? That is the dumbest thing I've ever heard of! Its called reading comprehension learn it and use it. Used to be taught in schools. here start with this one. https://www.amazon.com/Deliberate-Dumbing-Abridged-Charlotte-2011-05-03/dp/B01FGMTF02

wowzers you pulled out all the stops on that. That knife work inside is amazing.

you can moisten the loops only with a paint brush dont wet from the whole belt.

does sound fun with BP loads at least you can load them down a bit i have that one shell in my collection, its a flat slug, I'll bet it would rock your world in a shortened barrel lol must weigh an ounce and a half at least.

I did once! lol

it shows up a bit on a couple. Take two shells lay them on a table take your strap and tightly push it down both sides till it touches the table. mark where it touches move the shells lay it flat and measure it that is how much leather you need for each loop you can then stamp in the right places. you can wet form that indentation if you want it in after its sewn on just wet it and run a burnisher up and down the shells i would be careful though you could stretch the leather and make the loops to loose. Very cool old belt! also if you make it exactly the same stitch around those corners up to the main belt farther so the liner doesn't curl up on the ends but dont stitch all the way lol. Man shoots a biiiiiig gun!

Awesome info right here!! From someone who actually uses them! Thank you.

you shouldn't need to wet mold them. Stamp burnish then sew it on. 10 gauge, you may need suspenders too lol.

so whats you point? You have proven you don't really need a video , 24 /7 backup, instant service and training if you know what you are doing. Plus you almost bought something and almost knew how well the service was? but they didn't really have a dealer in you whole country to go to for service even for a hundreds of thousands of dollar machine.

You can see the leather is formed around the head right at the base of the handle past your welt, at least that's what the photo looks like Smashing the welt there probably helped also. Your welt works until the head gets wider, then the leather forms around the head, that's what pulled your top down in the back.

very cool !!! osha would have a s*&t fit and fall back in it here in the states lol.

i think it will last for years! The blade isn't sticking out to cut you and it wont fall off so your good to go IMO. your front piece took all the form and the thickness of the head so that's what made it pull down in the back. a bit. No one will ever notice.

I bought both of these online several years ago, The throwing hawk was hand forged at one of those living museum things, the camp hawk has a 20 " handle. I will have to do some thinking on where exactly. My old brain don't remember so well anymore lol. Neither one is branded.

https://tandyleather.com/blogs/leathercraft-library/2664-batwing-and-shotgun-chap-patterns

wonderful work your going to get me to making these if your not careful lol.

And you are awesome at it!!!!

you are right cars aren't the best example maybe. But you know the automotive industry has a diagnostic program in all vehicles and an interface right on the dash that could easily tell the owner the same info as the mechanic but guess what you cant see it or use it unless you buy special equipment. Buy a professional/industrial grade wood lathe or any other professional/industrial grade machine of any sort and see what you get for service, training or instructions. Professional/industrial comes with the assumption that you know how to use your equipment.

Leather machines are industrial machines intended for companies that train their workers.

welcome from wunerful Wyoming!

looks thinner than 3/16th get an accurate as you can measurement. Are you replacing straps or making something else?