chuck123wapati

Greetings back from South Central Wyoming. I look forward to your tips and tricks I plan on doing something with some of the many hides I give away every year so possibly would ask you a few Raw hide type questions lol.

me too and I cant access my account

I think Dikman means to put the epoxy inside the handle so you can center it. Knife makers and tool makers both do this routinely to The only person that can will ever know your handle is off center is you I cant see the problem at all. OR you can simply glue a dowel back inside the hole and redrill it!

cool video!

I have never used it for leather. glue up a couple pieces of scrap and see how it works.

yup we all have to remember the old masters made most of their tools. There was a time when tools couldn't be bought good or bad. I have no problem with Tandy tools but some of the new cheapo Chinese made knock offs are useless. Those are nice belts!

I agree with Tugadude also and adding my two cents to the conversation get your self a good set of hands free magnifying glasses so you don't jack up your new awl when sharpening it.

pretty cool ! did you cover that set screw with something so it wont wear on the finish of the firearm?

yes I agree go for it ! I make a cell phone holster that simply slips into your waist band so it can be worn with any type of britches belt or not. It has a large piece of leather that just slides into waist. It would work well I think.

I use old Christmas clothing boxes. you can but them cheaply at any dollar store or poster board is the same stuff. I have found its easier to make my patterns by hand then scan and save them after you get all the bugs worked out. I make the first scan and save then I can reprint and modify until its correct. A lot of people use programs but then spend their time learning the program not the leather work, then they have to update and relearn then at some point the program gets jacked and.... update relearn, update relearn.... well its just a pain in the a** to me. MY opinion only!

I m gonna build this! Thanks for posting!!!!! Came out pretty darn good.

IWb holster with the cell phone outside the waistband for added concealment.

I was at my local thrift store and found about 4 brand new leg immobilizers, those things that get strapped on you when you get a knee operation. That's what I am useing for padding for straps and slings. They are made out of polyester wadding with a layer of cotton on one side and synthetic fabric on the other and are about 3/8" thick when sewn in. When they run out I plan on using the ploy wadding for quilts as it wont break down as bad as foam IMO.

I've used a leather bracer I made for well over 20 years you don't need to harden it because you will want it to shape itself around the arm so the edge doesn't catch the string,which really hurts, it will self form naturally with the body heat and what little sweat it absorbes. just finish it and maybe use a little bit of neats foot oil on it, that bow string wont hurt it a bit. I used a waterproofing mix on mine, snow seal or febriengs mink oil don't remember which so I could use it hunting as well. It didn't ever get really wet but sometimes they get some rain on em. Bye the way it is beautiful work!!!!

the coloring looks like air brush work to me with three colors of brown, tan and natural. I cant tell how the words were done maybe branded in or stamped then burned or dyed with a small brush

You can turn leather and this is how I do it put your leather handle blank on your piece of all thread, chuck it up in a half inch hand drill and spin it while shaping it on the belt sander and it will come out nice and round. I make a lot of things this way, I don't have a lathe either. spin it the opposite way of the belt sander rotation.

That is awesome!!!!!!!!!!

heck yea that came out all right.

I would love to see a picture of your custom round knife/s for reference. I too collect knives and have made them for many years as well but am not to old to learn new tricks. As I said I have never tried a convex grind on a leather knife or a chefs knife for that matter.

You can use a regular hand drill also. I used files and sandpaper while I spun the work in a drill, makes it real easy to keep the work round that way. On the spoon I used files and my Dremel tool wasn't hard at all. For the handles I just made some leather washers with my punch set then tightened down the brass nuts, filed them round, sanded and then coated them with some super sheen thanks ! they are easy to make!

That is stainless all thread picked up at the local hardware store with brass nuts. depending on the finished size you want 1/8" 3/16 whatever size you want to use to get the right size finished product you want. Mine are made from 1/8". Chuck them up in a drill press and file /sand em down to whatever size you need.

yeeaaaaa.... NO.

very cool!! I see some new leather tools in your future as well as unburned leather. That is a nice setup.

If you make a knife with 1/16 th steel and try to have it hardened to 68 /72 rc it could very well break when you drop it the first time or it could break while in use and that could be really bad for you. a thin super hard blade is a recipe for disaster, blades like that are made to shave hair with little pressure or force applied to the metal, cutting leather is a lot different process. Most premium blades don't go over 66 rc. However from what I've read in my books if you do use 52100 it maxs out at 66rc with the optimum in toughness/hardness ratio at 57 rc which is very good and wont need diamond stones to sharpen it. Austenitize at 1475 temper at 300 -400 A convex grind or what some call an axe grind is the toughest grind design you can have as far as breakability, that's why they use it on axes but it doesn't work as well as a straight grind for knives intended for cutting IMO AS the shape creates more drag and has a higher edge angle. It may be a very good option for you however and a personal choice. I've never made one, a round knife that is, with that edge design I have made working knives with convex grinds but they were meant for more punishment, chopping, hacking and such and were also lower in hardness so they didn't chip or break. A high polish will also help on the edge whatever the design, less drag. Don't forget to show us the creation!!

That's gonna be beautiful!