Hardrada

It's also described in Al Stohlman's book The Art of Hand Sewing Leather (p.63) but he uses a piece of broken glass to even the edges out (hence the term 'glassing').

No. I glass them instead with a skiving knife: no mushrooming this way.

What are the leathers' weights?

Well, still trying to kinda replicate this wallet: I've cut the pieces for the card pockets on the first (left side) panel out of 2 oz (0.90 mm) Walpier Dollaro , but I've already run into the Hamburger Wall: Mind you, there're still ~5 more layers to go below that, and there're FOUR card pocket panels. I'd end with a brick at this rate, and that'd be for an empty wallet. Is there a better way to do this? The "model" wallet 'cheats' in the sense that it doesn't use full leather pieces for the pockets: just a leather top sewn to a bottom part of thin fabric, but I don't wanna use fabric. The panel to the left is Alran chevre, 1 oz (~0.35 mm). I'm thinking of using that, but I dunno if it's too thin to endure constant use/wear. Any useful suggestions are greatly appreciated, fellas.

Been curious about those—both the hooks and the slings. Don't the hooks come out of the holes when the sling is slackened?

So, it really comes from feet. Yeah, it does smell of animal flesh/fat. Thanks for that info. I've just tested it and it seems OK.

What do you do when the edges remain sticky from the wax?

Never hardened anything myself, but this video got me interested. Maybe you'd find it helpful?

An alternative method, and one that I use since I glue the layers prior to punching holes, is to use the chisel normally without trying to force it to go through all the layers. Let it go as far as it will with the usual mallet blow, then, once you've finished making the 'half-holes', place the project on top of a cork board or thick piece of scrap leather and use the awl to finish the holes: just make sure the awl is perfectly perpendicular to the table. That's how I punch holes on weights >10 oz.

Also, if using a chisel, don't use a 2-prong for straight lines; 2-prong chisels are for curves and turns and sharp points/angles. Use at least a 5-prong (a 7-prong would be preferrable) and, after making the first 5/7 holes with it, subsequently place the first two prongs of the chisel in the farthest** two holes and use that as an extra guide—yes, you'll be punching a -2 holes every time and it'll take longer to punch them all, but you'll get straight lines. One more thing: move your task lamp or position yourself and/or the project in such a way that you can see clearly the line along which you'll punch the holes and that you get as little shadows as possible from the chisel so that you can clearly see where the prongs are perforating the leather. It might also be useful to mark the holes with your chisel prior to punching them. Again, you'll take longer as you have to go around the project twice with the chisel, but you'll get straight lines. Once you've developed a rythm that works for you it'll all come naturally. ____________________________ **Or the 'last' holes. I'm assuming you're punching the holes away from you.

RML has awesome service. The only thing that sux about buying from them is duties.

Capital! I'll try the heating up method. Thanks a lot, mates.

I see. I've never handled/worked with neatsfoot oil before, so I dunno what to expect. Even sans the freezing issue I didn't know what to expect. Only thing about it I know is that it darkens the leather it's applied to. This is gonna be interesting. Warm enough that you can put your hand in it? Or coffee-hot warm? It doesn't need to cover the bottle, does it? The pans I have are about 2/3 of the height of that bottle.

@#$%^&* Actually, no, there weren't any warnings: https://www.lonsdaleleather.com/supplies/pure-neatsfoot-oil Checking Tandy's catalog for their offerings has the "Freezing does not harm" icon. Weird. I took it out of the box and shook it, then left it to thaw at room temperature. It seems mostly liquid now, but there are some particles floating in it.

Does neatsfoot oil get ruined if frozen? I ordered a bottle from my supplier but at this time of the year it inavoidably froze somewhat during shipping.

Whoa! They're not mine! That's a Korean crafter there. I was just linking you to what I've found useful.

Yup. That's what I did when molding a leather case for my Zippo, and also when making a couple of end sleeves for my phone, to cover the cameras semi-permanently. (Jump to @ 1:05 in the video.) He used a similar method to make a case for an electronic gadget, so, if you wrap your watch properly, it should be safe:

I only have 2-prong and 7-prong. It might get tedious when punching straps, but 7-prong is a good all-round number when making smaller items like pouches and wallets. If all you make is straps then go for more, like a 10- or 12-prong.

Where did you find Dublin leather in Canada?

https://www.tandyleather.world/products/leathercraft-tools-book Yup. https://www.danswhetstone.com/product/bench-stones/ Soft and Hard in an 8 x 2 x 1/2 should suffice.

You will need a steel hammer, though: a cobbler's hammer with a smooth head to tap your stitching work. Needless to say, you should never use the cobbler's hammer to hammer anything else: if you scratch the head you'll be marking the leather when you flatten the stitches.

That it is. Actually, I stopped using it because I couldn't find a thinner for it. I tried the domestic thinner but it didn't really work well (please note that I'm no glue expert nor chemist), hence I changed to the local glue.

I've seen a boot maker and another leather worker use Hirschkleber. https://sorrellnotionsandfindings.com/product/hirschkleber-craft-paste/ Can you get that in the UK? Myself, I use contact cement: a Barge alternative made in Canada. I've also used Renia Colle de Cologne: it's good—another contact cement. Now the issue with contact cements is the fumes: you need a well ventilated area to use them, specially if you're applying them to large areas. I don't mind the fumes, but even I have ended up with a sore throat and a headache after long applications. Water-based glues don't have this problem, but they can't be shipped in the wintertime: if they freeze they are ruined. Renia has a water-based cement called Aquilim 315. I'm told it's very good and bonds permanently instantly, but my bottle was shipped during wintertime and I guess it froze or kinda froze in transit because the glue doesn't bond permanently.

For your intended purposes: #0 & #1 (later on you can add a #2 if you're working with heavy leathers). Good quality and affordable: https://www.goodsjapan.com/leather-craft-items/general-leather-tools/kyoshin-elle-leathercraft-deluxe-leather-edge-beveller-sharpener-0-6mm-edger-0/a-20564 https://www.goodsjapan.com/leather-craft-items/general-leather-tools/kyoshin-elle-leathercraft-deluxe-leather-edge-beveller-sharpener-0-8mm-edger-1/a-20469

You shouldn't skimp on any of them! KS Blade chisels, FTW. For wallets I'd go with the 3.38 mm ones. They're not cheap. If you don't feel like making such an investment right now, I'd go with the Seiwa chisels, from goodsjapan.com. They're not fancy looking, but don't be fooled: they're very good quality and are good for starters and are so sturdy that you can keep them as back-up when you migrate to the KS Blade chisels. I'd advise not to use pricking irons and awl if you're just starting: stitching with these takes lots of practice to get right. For wallets and bags you won't be going through several layers of heavy leather, and thus the chisels will be best. Still, do get yourself a diamond awl from goodsjapan.com too, I'd suggest the Kyoshin Elle: comes quite sharp right off the bat. At times, you might indeed end up with a certain thickness that will require the chisels to begin the holes, and the awl to finish them.