BlackDragon

Looks like a rivet press with a foot peddle attachment Something like this https://www.goldstartool.com/foot-press-for-grommets-snaps-buttons-and-rivets-with-stand.htm?campaign=21363438166&content=&keyword=&gad_source=5&gad_campaignid=21359363180#830-011_11500_11261_7851_1278300881

I agree about the background but the actual portrait is excellent. I remember sitting in front of the TV on Sat mornings with a bowl of cereal singing along to the Spiderman theme song lol

Something I just remembered, while in Inkscape be sure your page size is as large as you need to fit your whole pattern. Inkscape will only export whats within the page boundaries

I also use Inkscape to make patterns. I export the pattern as a png file and open it with a LibreOffice Calc (It's free). I run a Linux system so I don't use MS products but you may be able to use any spreadsheet program. Make sure you add a measurement block in your pattern so you can adjust your printing size correctly (I do a 1"x1" square).

That is a beautiful piece! Could incorporate a boarder along the top or stitching to hide the scratch?

I agree completely. I told the customer that if he doesnt like it I'll make it right. So I'll let him think about it a few days then reach out to make sure he's satisfied.

After I cut my leather I put some NFO and let it sit for an hour or so while I do other things. (I put just enough to change the color don't saturate the leather.) I then dye the leather and let it sit until the next day so the leather dries completely. The only times I use a wool dauber is for edges or small projects. For larger things like bags, holster, belts, I use some thing larger like a wool pad or even a folded up sock, you can also dip dye Then I buff the leather and add my finish, either Resolene (diluted 50/50 with water) or Fiebing's Leather Balm with Atom Wax

Resolene is a protective finish and should be used to seal the leather. It's better to dampen the leather with water or use a little neatsfoot oil to make your dye even out. Also when adding your finish it is likely the color will change as well. It may become a deeper color and more glossy esp when using an oil or resolene. What Fiebings dye are you using, Pro or Ecoflo? If you're using Pro don't dilute with water, you can use alcohol. Color matching can be very difficult, especially with something that has been in the elements and has darken over time, BUT it may be possible to get somewhat close. Also the leather you use for a test should come from the same leather you're going to make your belt because different leather may react differently to the same dye. Sometimes even using a different section of the same leather can change results. To the color you showed try adding just a little bit of blue to see if it brings down the yellow. A few drops of blue goes a long way and you can always add more.

So I got off the phone today with a customer that I made a scout style knife sheath for one of his knives. He wanted a sheath the formed as much as possible to his particular knife. I explained to him that it wasn't possible for me to match a knife exactly when I don't have the knife in hand but I could get close because I can get the details from the website. He agreed and I worked on the sheath. He called and said that it was really snug but couldn't get the blade to go in all the way, other than that he loved the sheath. I asked him how much more does he need it to go in. He wanted it to go in another 1/8". I explained that if he leaves the knife in for a day the leather will form better to the knife. He said that if it didn't from better he guessed he could live with it. So what are some of yalls nit picky client complaints?

When I was hand stitching I mostly stayed with one size but depending on the item you may want to go bigger or smaller. If you're doing a wallet you may want a nice tight stitch but if your making a belt you may want to use a wider chisel. Stitching belts by hand can hurt your hands after awhile so using a wider chisel can lessen the amount of hole you have to stitch.

It really depends on what you want your end product to look like. I like French pricking irons but I did sometime use diamond chisels. I dont like round holes because the holes tend to be bigger than the thread.

These look great!

There's not much on the web about this machine. What I did find was here on the forums. Best thing to do is to call Toledo Industrial because they used to sell the machine. If this is a walking foot machine I wouldn't run anything thicker than wallets.

Thanks a lot!

I'm not a big fan of stitching ponies myself, although I do use one from time to time. I've stitched my belts, 10oz vegtan and 5oz liner, both with a pony and without and I prefer not using a pony. Now if I hand stitch a wallet I may use a pony but usually I don't. One of my contentions with the pony is I have to continuously tilt my head to see the one side or the other. I have neck issues so this constant back and forth causes neck pain and headaches.

Welcome to the forum! That's a great idea for a keepsake/air tag holder

Not sure what glue you're using but this applies the rubber/contact cement like Barge or Weldwood. I use rubber cement erasers, they pull the glue right up like it's never been there. The trick is to let the glue get tacky before using the eraser, if it's to wet it'll just smear. Also you just need a light touch so you don't mark your leather. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=rubber+cement+eraser

Thanks! I decided to remake the liner and sweatband. Here was how I did the first one. The liner (cotton) and sweatband (2oz vegtan) are stitched together then stitched into the hat. This is how I remade it. Now the liner is separate from the sweatband (1oz pig suede) and the sweatband flips inward to hold the liner

The important things are your #1 & #2. Veg tan should be completely dry before clamping for stitching and it shouldn't move while in the clamp. With that said ponies should have something in between the wooden clamps, preferably something softer that the work piece. I use a couple pieces of 3oz English bridle on each side (not glued together). The English bridle will comform to the tooling when snug. When the work piece is in the clamp you don't have to use a lot of pressure to do the stitching, if you are your holes may be to small. Also make sure when you're stiching you aren't pulling the piece so it moves towards you or away from you. The pressure should go to the left and right.

Thanks!

This is only the second hat I've made and I was worried that anything lighter would be floppy. Maybe using 2/3 for the crown and 5/6 for the brim would solve both issues? I made a sweatband and liner but I didnt take a picture of it cuz it's down right ugly. The sweatband is 1" 2oz vegtan and it's sewn in through the holes attaching the brim to the crown at 5 points so I can remove it.

I'm a bit of a gamer and I've been wanting to make the hat for the character Arthur Morgan in Red Dead Redemption 2. I used 6oz vegtan and Resolene as the finish.

I found a couple on Bruce Johnson's site but the bar looks to be different. Some stamps can be impossible to find because they may be custom made. Trying to copy something so exactly can drive you nuts, trust me I know. People wont notice most of the tiny differences so if you find something pretty close you'll be fine. https://brucejohnsonleather.com/products/stamping-and-carving-tools/basket-stamps

When I order a side from Wickett & Craig I ask for the back to be pasted on some of the sides. This way I dont have to take the time to do it.