Littlef

That's really neat. Glad to hear the class went well.

I do the same basic thing. I learned by not leaving enough space. I set my stitches in further than they need to be, and then that gives me room to sand the edges even and bevel. (hopefully.)

People are ridiculous. She knew 20 bucks wasn't remotely in the ballpark.

If you don't have everything, maybe you could pick up a handful of pieces that seem most interesting/useful to you, to try and get the most out of the class. also, there's a lot of similarities in the types of stamps. Maybe if you don't have the exact stamp listed, but have a similar style/type, you could substitute it, to work on the technique, even if its not the exact stamp. If you show up with "most" of the stuff, he "might" have a few extra tools, and he might let you borrower one. I wouldn't bank on it, but if you get in the class, and they are working with a tool you don't have, it doesn't hurt to ask, and say that a tool you haven't bought yet. -just a few thoughts.

My impression is that Jim Linnell isn’t teaching a beginner class. Tandy might provide tools for their classes, because they expect beginners will need tools, and will buy tools. Jim is teaching a class to help experienced leather workers refine their craft. He’s there to teach and not peddle Tandy tools. It’s hard to teach how to use a tool, if you don’t have the tool. It would be a pain to lug the slab, but also Jim isn’t going to haul around 30 slabs of granite. there always books and youtube if this particular class requisites don’t work for you. Maybe at some point in the future you will build up the tool chest where having the requisite tools isn't overwhelming to buy at once. They certainly add up fast.

I don't pitch mine. every now and then I strain out any big junk floating in it. It can turn reddish and murky, but I've not noticed that changes how it works. If it seems like its weakening, I add a little more vinegar, and a bit more steel wool. BUT, in only takes 2-3 days to bring a new batch up to a workable strength, if you don't feel like hanging on to it.

If mine develops rust or sludge, I run it through a strainer to get any big junk out of it. If I use it and it seems to be not as potent, I Just top it off with more vinegar and stuff in some more steel wool. In a couple days it back to regular strength. it’s vinegar so it has that smell, but it dissipates with time. If you put nose on it and look for vinegar, you’ll probably pick up hints of it. But using the leather and storing it with other gear, I don’t notice the smell. I've seen it used at mild strength, to purposely give a gray aged look, and when adding some distressing it can really give the been-there historic look.

The dyeing isn't ever exact, cause it has to do with the amount of tannins in the leather, and the concentration of the vinegarroon. I always use distilled white vinegar, but that part probably doesn't change anything. You can always soak the leather in it longer. You can also do multiple dips in the vinegarroon. If you think its not dark enough, dip it again. Another ting worth experimenting with is brewing some black tea, and applying the tea, and letting it soak in before dipping in the vinegaroon. Tea has tannins, so that can help intensify the effect. I've never needed to the that on leather, but I use that when aging wood with vinegarroon. I've noticed leather usually looks a little grey until I oil it with neatsfoot. Once I oil the leather, it significantly darkens, and mine is usually winds up very deep black with no grey left. Make sure after dipping it in the vinegarroon to also run it through water and baking soda to neutralize the acid. Also I normally let it dry about 8-12 hours or so, and then I oil it. Once I didn't oil it for a several days, and the leather turned hard and brittle.

I regularly mix lamb tallow and beeswax. It's a traditional lubricant for black powder firearms. I tweak the consistency with olive oil depending on outside temperatures, and how dense/hard I want it to set up.

Nice lookin strap. I'd be proud to have that on any of my instruments.

That's a good looking note pad! I need to make something along those lines to track all my load date when I go to the range.

That’s really nice, I’m sure he will be thrilled.

You’re welcome sir. Glad to help.

Looks like leathers crafters journal has it. https://leathercraftersjournal.com/product-category/dvds/?product_orderby=popularity&add-to-cart=17742&product_order=desc&product_view=list

This forum has an "Items for Sale" section. I would recommend checking there.

good clean lookin rig. Its built like a tank. love it.

I dig it. That's cool!

A pair of channel lock/water pump pliers or a pipe wrench should give you the torque twist off the cap. - be careful not to crush the sheet metal can. I've learned to wipe the threads inside the lid, and the threads on the can with a solvent every couple of uses. I use acetone to clean the threads. It does a good job dissolving contact cements.

Looks like this thread was resurrected from a decade ago. If looking for pine tar, if you search under boat restoration or rifle stock restoration you’ll get hits. I have pine tar I used to when restoring an old Finnish rifle. I Bought it years ago and I don’t remember where I ordered it from. https://www.pinetarworld.com/product-category/pine-tar/

I think it still looks really cool. I dig it.

My guess, for what it's worth, is that the laser is not what is coloring the leather. I did a quick google, and found some industrial manufacturing lasers that can etch metal and glass with some sort of coloring process included, but I found no references to being able to do that to leather. Nor have I ever heard of laser type machine being marketed with that ability. I wind up in the same place. I got nothing.

Me too. Left handed, but right eye dom. I shoot pistol left, but I shoot rifle and shotgun right.

Good lookin' holster Chuck.

I was referring to a resist such as this image. Its used when antiquing leather. It seals the leather so that antiquing gel only adheres to the areas that are tooled, and the antiquing gel will wipe back off of the portions of smooth leather. It might work.... it might not.