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Hello everyone, I just happened to wander here to find any valuable help on this specific topic. So could anyone provide links to or any tutorials how to sew by hand or by specific sewing machine (would gladly appreciate any links to any machines available) for this project. I am interested in sewing round leather cords, and it depends on the material quite much; for starters I'm starting with faux embossed leather and planning to go further on real leather and exotic leather (which can be in different thickness and hardness) So, as I am completely newbie on leather stuff, could any of you guys help me on this? I want the cords to be in specific diameter size, could you share any available techniques? Thank you!
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Hey there! I am planning on making a leather holster next week. This holster is for an M&P Fullsize. I have made two trial holsters, so I have done the process. I did a mock of up what I am looking for in a holster, and I am looking for your input on my design. This shows the un-assembled cut of leather that will be used to make the holster. The dotted lines represent stitching. This shows how the M&P fits over the assembled holster. As you can see, I've left around 1/2 inch around the gun to account for the gun's width. To be clear: the stitching near the muzzle and at the top of the holster only attach the liner to the leather. The stitching running along the bottom of the pistol, following the contour of the trigger guard, is the actual welt. How the pistol will look inside the assembled holster. I added a steel belt clip to this rending, approximately where I would place the belt clip. This rending shows what the finished product will look like. Thoughts about this project? -
Here are a few of my other pieces. The first two are made from softy pig skin. This is the only leather that can be taken in water. I washed a piece by accident and it came out perfect. Very soft and beautiful. The first one laces around the back and the neck and the other is a bikini halter top. Turquoise bikini halter top at the bottom. do not ask why. Black halter bra reversible with swaroski crystals and leather waterfall necklace passport cover Red collar not for dogs -
This might be a stupid question, but, does anyone know if Hermann Oak's Grade A tooling leather is full grain or top grain? I am assuming it is full grain, considering that "A" is their highest grade, I'm just not 100% sure. Thanks Zayne
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I have started taking apart old baseball gloves and repurposing them. I am doing these wallets right now. I really like them. I have sold several, and have quite a bit of interest. What do you guys think of them? -
Good morning everyone! So I was wondering how you go about getting your tooled design one color and the rest of the leather another color without completely messing up your entire project? ha! I'm guessing one would use a resist of some sort and then do you just very carefuly dye around the tooled design? I really want to learn how to do this. I've researched the forums here and found examples people have posted out of their own work but never found a definitive explanation as to how this look is achieved. I have attached a picture of some spur straps a tack maker created that are the exact look I'm going for. They are an absolute beautiful piece of work and I would love to be able to achieve that two tone color effect in my own work. Thanks for your time everyone and hope you are all doing well!! I'm sure many of you are very busy getting Christmas orders together!!
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Hey Guys! I have about 20 Spinneybeck Sabrina Hides. I have them in White, Palm Beach, Carmen, Nasturtium, and Olive. We bought them for a furniture run but our client wanted fabric instead last minute so my boss wants to unload them. We are asking 500 each shipped to your location. Here is a link to the hides as I'm not very knowledgeable of leather: http://www.knoll.com/product/sabrina-leather-hide I hope everyone has a great Thanksgiving!
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We have been a manufacturing facility for a major motorcycle company for the last 27 years. We will be closing our doors and liquidating the equipment and building in a few months. This is not a situation where things are sitting in storage and have unknown damage. Everything is currently being used in production and in good working order. We will be finishing out a few product lines, and as soon as production is over the equipment will be available to purchase (within a few months). Everything is pictured and priced on our website, http://midwestcustommanufacturing.wordpress.com All prices negotiable, especially if you are purchasing more than piece. Thank you. -
Hey guys just asking for your opinion on the website...let me know what you think of it and what improvements i could make. Thanks a bunch! http://www.lopaloleather.com - Aidan -
ok so i was tinkering and i managed to get a somehat burnish on oil tanned leather if i put more time in i could probbly get it pretty nice. I want to start making bags and i really dont have the experience to know how bridle oil tanned or latigo acts when it comes to burnishing. I want to make bags but want to be able to get a good smooth edge. Any suggestions on types of leather i should use? My first bag will most likely be made of veg tan because thats what i have plenty of to make mistakes with as i learn.
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I have a lead on a fortschritt skiver with table and clutch motor that used to be in an old factory that made firemen's hats in NYC. The buyer is asking $500 which seems to be a pretty fair price to me compared to cost of new chinese made machines. I saw it operational last night and it seems to be working reasonably well. My questions: Is there anything specific that I should look at that wears out over time? Belts and knife seem. Are fortschritt skivers interchangable with other skiver parts? Bell knife, feed wheel, etc? Are there any online resources that you can point me to in regards to maintainence/rebuild of this type of machine? Does $500 seem like a fair price? Thanks
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So I'm new to this forum and I've done some searching and one post I've wish I've found but still seems to elude me is a post on leather sources. I'm relatively new to leatherworking and I'm making watch straps right now from various Horween hides purchased from Maverick Leather Company out of California. The quality of the leather is very good, while the price is relatively cheap (~$5 sqft) I'm in the mood to start trying leather from different sources and other tanneries other than Horween but am not able to approach most tanneries directly because of the small amounts I buy. Is there any other good leather dealers you guys would recommend?
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I am about to design a leather sunglasses/glasses case. I am concerned that the flesh side of the leather, which would be on the inside of the case, will scratch/mark/scuff the glasses. I am using full grain hermann oak, and the flesh side is very tight, not hairy at all. Is this something I should worry about? I really do not want to have to line the inside with suede or another material. Would it be reasonable to lightly sand the flesh side to make it softer? I had thought about that but I don't want any flesh particles to be left on the glasses (I don't even know if that would happen, just hypothesizing). Maybe theres a conditioner or something that can be used? Thanks! Zayne
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I have a saddle that i use all the time and the leather is splitting on the front of the horn, is there anything i can do it fix it? thank you
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Hi, I'm relatively new to working with leather. I do beadwork and work mostly with tanned hides. I have a question.... I would like to stain an elk hide for a possibles bag (contemporary design) and would like to use some Mayan Blue pigment. I've done my research ... and all signs point to mixing the pigment with vodka for the best pigment dissolution and applying it to a dampened surface by vigorously rubbing it in. Then, let dry. Then buff (to remove excess pigment and rub in the stain) ... What would you recommend I seal it with? And will the dye rub off after it is sealed? My hide is very soft and I'd like to keep it that way. I plan to put the buff/sueded side on the interior and the skin side on the exterior. The skin side is what I'd like to stain. One site, Earth Pigments, recommends sealing with a fixative spray such as that which charcoal artists use. I'm not sure that will work for leather? The hide is very likely German Tanned since I got it from Crazy Crow. Not sure if that means it has been veg tanned....and how that will affect the pigment uptake. Thanks! Sue Mandel
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Hi, I'm relatively new to working with leather. I do beadwork and work mostly with tanned hides. I have a question.... I would like to stain an elk hide for a possibles bag (contemporary design) and would like to use some Mayan Blue pigment. I've done my research ... and all signs point to mixing the pigment with vodka for the best pigment dissolution and applying it to a dampened surface by vigorously rubbing it in. Then, let dry. Then buff (to remove excess pigment and rub in the stain) ... What would you recommend I seal it with? And will the dye rub off after it is sealed? My hide is very soft and I'd like to keep it that way. I plan to put the buff/sueded side on the interior and the skin side on the exterior. The skin side is what I'd like to stain. One site, Earth Pigments, recommends sealing with a fixative spray such as that which charcoal artists use. I'm not sure that will work for leather? The hide is very likely German Tanned since I got it from Crazy Crow. Not sure if that means it has been veg tanned....and how that will affect the pigment uptake. Thanks! Sue Mandel
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Hi Y'all! I'm relocating to Bangkok, Thailand at the end of September. Unfortunately, I'm having almost ZERO luck finding tanneries and suppliers in Thailand, Southeast Asia, Japan, and anywhere else that makes economic sense. So far, all I've found are the Tandy store in Australia, a similar store in Japan, and several Thai tanneries that supply chrome tanned leather. And that's it. To date I have not found any source of the veg tanned leather I will need. Nor have I found a decent source for hardware and tools. If anyone knows of good, reputable tanneries and suppliers that I can use, please, let me know. Thanks. Mav -
I recently purchased a Cobra King with eps and a class 18 with eps from Cobra Steve at the Leather Machine Company. I couldn't feel better about this transaction. His dedication to making me feel at ease during the ordering process was incredible. In my lifetime I have acted as a business consultant and when it comes to customer service, he is the epitome of what I was always trying to sell my clients to employ in their business. He didn't try to sell me two machines. Instead he was willing to work with me to help me make one work as long as I was willing to make the many adjustments needed for varying thicknesses of leather and material. He could have easily pressured me, but didn't. In the end, I know my level of patience and because of that I wanted the two different machines. I also felt inclined to make the purchases simultaneously as I am in Alaska and shipping savings could prove great. He also made it worth my while in other ways, but never was their the salesman pressure one would expect from big ticket items. I believe his final words to me were, "CyLee, I promise, I'll never let you down," once I placed the order. Now fast forward a bit. I received the shipment on time. He has no ability to control all the methods of transport that a couple machines endure to find their way to the Last Frontier, but what I can say is he chose a quick expediter, and he took care to package the machine very well. The plastic was wrapped and wrapped and wrapped again to help ensure the salt water spray from the barge would not come in contract with my beautiful new masterpieces. They arrived a couple days earlier than I expected. Another testament that he made good choices in how he shipped to me. Since then we have played phone tag as I have a few questions, but mind you, it's my fault. My hours are for the the birds as my G'ma says. After a series of surgical procedures I am running quite slow on medication and bedrest, but I look longingly across my room at those Cobra machines. I did manage to start them up and test a strip of leather on each. Barring a few questions and one not so serious correction needed, I must say that I am honored to have done business with the man who REALLY knows how to do business. It's a BIG risk to buy big ticket items site unseen in Alaska if for the shipping price alone. I have no regrets. There will be many more people using Cobras in Alaska as soon as I can get out there and show people all the magic the machine and the man behind the machine can do. Kudos to his staff, too. It's been all a pleasure and so far, he has kept his word and not let me down a bit. If you are on the table as to which machine to order... go with the man. The machines are similar enough that you need to look beyond that. If the Cobra experience is good enough for an Alaskan, it's good enough for anyone for there can be no greater number of obstacles than that of getting things here. Let this be my testament to customer service that is not available in most places anymore. It's the old days kind of classy. The only negative thing I can say with deep deep frustration is I dreamt of deadly cobra snakes for three nights after ordering the machine. The mind is a mean mean machine in itself... But I finally slaughtered those snakes in my head and went to the local Tandy and bought a couple snake skins. They say if you can't join them.... kill them. Or buy them already dead!
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Hi, this is my first post on leatherworker! I have an industrial machine, a singer, for very lightweight sewing (I had to order special narrow needles) so I am looking to buy a new machine for sewing thick leather, 5-7oz I have found some good machine heads on ebay, Consew 255B, Singer 211W115, and very old but apparently in good working condition Singer 111W115 (someone I worked for had this exact machine, also old but very beautiful and reliable stitching) My current table and motor are in great condition, the motor is a Tacsew, clutch, 5.8 amp. My question is...possibly a dumb one...but will any/all of these machine heads fit and run with this motor? I read your post about clutch vs servo, but still felt unsure about combining a different head with my existing clutch. Thanks in advance! here is a photo of my motor.
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I have a Typical Type: GC6505 industrial cylinder post sewing machine , 10 or so different leathers, some tools, hardware, and other miscellaneous items. Ask me for more details. $1850 or best offer
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Here we have some Leather Craft books for sale. How To Carve Leather 1952 Craftool Co. - $15 Ken Griffin's Scrap Book 1952 Craftool Co. - $20 Tandy Leather Black Powder Book by Gene Noland 1978 Tandy - $10 Black Powder Bags & Pouches 1985 Tandy - $10 -
I have bought a building which had been operated as a leather shop. It has riveting machines, punch out machines, cutting machines, skiving machines, pretty much everything needed to manufacture horse halters, leashes. leads, etc. It has about 12 pieces of machinery, the rivet machines are by Thomson, the punch out machines are by Western, all the machinery It 1,000's of pieces of hardware (rivets, studs, caps, o-rings, d-rings, square rings, buckles in numerous sizes (brass and nickel plated),most made by a company called North &Judd. It also has 1,000's of pieces of hardward like snaps, latches, swivels, snap bolts, etc. And not to mention the 1,000's of pieces of inventory like chains for leashes, horse halters, dog collars, strips of leather which were never finished...well you get tthe idea. If anyone is interested in some of this, please let me know. We have just begun loading some of this stuff on eBay, but if someone in the business could use it, that would be better. Thank you.
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Hi! I just wanted to share this video of us making a leather holster for the new iPhone 6 plus. http://youtu.be/dXSqnM8P6SU Any thoughts? -
When trying to find buffalo or bison leather i can only find 30% veg tanned or 30% reveg leather. My question is can u wet mold 30% veg tanned or re veg leather and will it make items rust assuming it has some chrome tanning done to it? Thank you for your time and posts -
In my last Leather History post, I talked about Orvo (Arvo from Norway - or Finland?) Ojala - the fellow who worked leather for hollywood quick draw and coach to the western gunfighters in movies. Well his old shooting buddy is my mentor - Dave Shelgren. Dave is nearing 90 now and takes great pleasure in spending time teaching me more and more. Dave used to do all manner of leather work for all kinds of folks, from John Wayne to Jerry Lewis and hundreds more. Some of John Bianchi's designs are derived from Dave. He's had a hand in many present day holster designs and does some incredible work. Dave sold his business to Bret at Circle KB in Salmon Idaho some years back. As most of us in leather work, we take odd jobs to keep the leather habit in full swing. Dave, with a very interesting history, at one time was the go-to dog food guy for Joe Bonanno at his compound near Tucson. Bonanno (spelling?) would buy 1/2 ton of Purina at a time, and Dave would deliver to the double fenced property. He tells me the dogs would roam the in between fences area ready to catch an intruder. As he delivered the puppy chow, the goons would have Dave frisked. He'd tell me he could drop 3-4 of them before they even got near their hardware. Just like a prison, those guys who play rough, usually end up in a cage of some sort. As I have more interesting tidbits, I'll pass them on. I'll tell you how he helped the developing Monsanto while a farmer. Lots of history from this fellow.
