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Showing results for tags 'sewing'.
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Adler, Camoga, Fortuna, Galli, Krause Industrial Machinery Located in North Florida, this leather company is consolidating their inventory and I am helping sell the items. The equipment included is brand new, or like new, indoors/factory kept, European machinery. - Pay by cash, check or bank wire. Credit Cards will be accepted, a 3% transaction fee will be added. - Pick up items in person or arrange your own pick up/delivery/shipping. - DM me for more information, to answer specific questions or additional photos. - Images can be viewed by following this link: Flickr Images We have the following machines for sale: (1) Adler Sewing Machine - $4,180 (2) Adler Handbag Sewing Machines - $3,080 each - German Made, includes Servo Motor and Table (2) Adler Sewing Machines - $1,980 each - German Made, includes Servo Motor and Table (2) Adler Sewing Machine - $1,870 each - German Made, includes Servo Motor and Table (1) Atom Clicker - $5,280 (1) Camoga 520 Splitter Automatic - $14,850 (2) Fortuna Bevel Machines - $1,980 each (1) Fortuna Bevel Machine - $2,970 (1) Fortuna Type UAF 470 Splitting Machine - $10,450 (1) Galli Stamping and Number Machine - $3,300 (1) Galli RCB Bag Trimming Machine - $6,600 (1) Galli R5L Belt Collector - $7,150 (1) Galli TGV20 Drying Tunnel - $3,300 (1) Galli FC2E Belt Polish and Paint Machine - $8,800 (1) Galli SM3 Bag Polishing Machine - $4,950 (1) Galli LCS2 Glazing Machine - $6,820 (1) Galli TCE 3000 Oil Pressure Punch Machine - $3,300 (1) Galli Srapy Booth - $4,950 (1) Krause Cardboard Cutter - $2,420 (1) Protos Type 1652 Linear Folding Machine - $3,300 (1) Protos Strap Cutter - $4,620 (1) Protos Folding Machine - $1,320 (1) Protos Type 680 Tracking Machine - $2,200 (1) SPS Automatic Stapler - $2,640 (1) Silvy Strap Cutter - $7,150
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Heya, I come from hand sewing world and am just beginning to really learn how to use a sewing machine. Currently, I am trying to make a watch strap and am having difficulties lining up the stitching perfectly at 3 crucial points (start, tip, end). Starting stitch should be perfectly parallel to the ending stitch and the tip directly in the middle. How on bloody earth do you do this (see the image below)? I am trying to sew at somewhere around 10spi. Also, what is the best way to start and finish the stitch so it won't look messy and the thread will stay put/secure? Many thanks -
Back before I owned a leather sewing machine I had dreamed up a few designs with the gusset seam as shown below in the photos (not this same bag, but just the seam on it). Once I got my first machine I quickly realized this style of seam did not appear to be possible using a sewing machine. It is not your typical seam, just an overlap of leather. I know it is possible to do this by hand stitching, but I had seen photos of this same bag in brown with what looked like a backtacking that a machine would have done. Is there a way to machine sew this style of seam I am just not thinking of (a patcher could do it possibly, but I have a regular cylinder arm and a flatbed consew)?
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Hello, I just purchased a new cobra 4 sewing machine and have been noticing that when sewing slowly the outer presser foot comes up in a very jumpy manner. Kind of like a stutter. It kind of concerns me that the rod holding the outer foot might be off in some way - and I don't want to continue any damage to this new machine if something isn't set right. Anyone have this issue with that outer presser foot when it is pulling up? Still does it even when I pulled the foot off. The rod is pushing up on the large tension spring on the inside of the case, so my thoughts are that this could just be some physics about the slow speed against a high pressure spring. Any thoughts? Just want to make sure either way before moving forward!
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I have a really nice Artisan 5110 post bed sewing machine. Roller foot machine. Made for heavy or light weight material including leather. It has a servo motor which makes it very easy to control your stitch. Adjustable stitch length and it also has a reverse for backstitching (back tacking). Nice size table with locking caster. Comes with a light, two spools of thread and few accessories. Uses a knee lift and has a foot pedal for the servo motor. $750 + shipping Thanks for looking. Randy
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Hi folks, I am trying to make the perfect gun belt. My struggles: gluing 2 pieces of 7 to 8 oz leather together on a flat surface. The problem with this is I am getting wrinkles on the inside of belt, also the inside belt holes look funky over time (bulged out slightly). This problem I have seen on a few of my belts, not all of them. I understand that the inside layer of a belt travels a shorter distance than the outside layer which makes since that something is going to give. To fix this problem. I have started gluing my belts around a 50" bucket. This seems to work out great! This makes the inside layer at least an 1" shorter than the outside layer. I just tell my customers to look at this as a top shelf belt and keep on your top shelf not a hanger.. My question is, will I encounter any bad side effects from gluing belts this way? The last thing I want is for the outside of my belts to show wrinkles. Struggles # 2 I am using a cowboy 3200 with #277 top and bottom thread. When I hammer the top stitches down they sit down nice,( acceptable to me) however after hammering down the stitches on inside of belt they are raised up more than my liking. (not acceptable to me). I don't think it is a setting on my machine as the knot is sitting in the middle like its supposed to and I don't see any loose stitches. To fix this problem I have been using a stitch groover on bottom of belt. I don't like using the stitch groover on the bottom. If I could decrease my bobbin thread size I think this will alleviate my raised stitches. My question: with me using #277 on the top what is the smallest thread I can use in my bobbin that will work on 2 pcs of 7 to 8 oz leather? My second question: Will this help or am I better off just using a stitch groover? Thanks for your help.
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Hi guys. If you're looking for the Cowboy User Guides and Assembly Guides, I make them freely available here: http://www.solar-leather.com/supporthelp/ There are also several videos covering random things. I try to cover as much information as I can but haven't had time to make videos for every issue. If you have video requests (be polite!) I'll see if I can get to it.
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How do you end the thread so it doesn't come out of the holes. I wrapped the end a few times on my straps and the end came out already. I back stitch on other parts of the bags. But the ends of the strap I wanted to wrap to protect the points from opening. Maybe a dot of glue?
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Wanted a used or new cylinder arm sewing machine. Need to have reverse and minimum of 5/8 foot lift, more is better. Any reviews on the Techsew 5100? Thanks, Bonnie
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Wanted a used or new cylinder arm sewing machine. Need to have reverse and minimum of 5/8 foot lift, more is better. Any reviews on the Techsew 5100? Thanks, Bonnie
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I haven't posted in a while and I remembered this category on the forum. I wrote a blog post this morning on the general topic of leather sewing machines--more specifically, MY leather sewing machines, and the love & adoration I have for them. Anyway, here's a link to the post--feel free to share the whole thing here if it's appropriate. Here's the link: http://www.brucegibsondesign.com/sewing-machines-stitchers-profanity-thoughts-violence/ -
Looking for stitching and/or sewing help (contract based) for a consumer leather product in the next few months to half a year. In Massachusetts, preferably within an hour or two of the Blackstone Valley area. Thanks!
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Hi, I have a relatively simple leatherworking job that I'm looking to offer to someone either in/near Norfolk, Virginia, or Portland, Oregon (I live in VA, but the majority of my business is located in OR). I have a straightforward wallet design that I need someone to construct. I'm considering two methods of manufacture. 1) Having the leather laser-cut (including stitch holes) and then hand sewn. 2) Having the wallets die-cut and sewn by machine. Either way, the requirements will be relatively basic. If you live in or near Virginia or Oregon, and have an interest in this work, please let me know by personal message. Further, if you have contact information for someone or some business that may be interested in this work, please forward it to me. FYI, this job probably will not begin for the next few months, but I'm trying to get things in order now. Also, I'm currently at sea with the US Navy, so my response time may be delayed. Thanks!
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Hey yal long time no post! Hoping some pros can help me with something. I'm looking for experiences, not just google articles, hence why I'm here! I have a 810 post bed machine. I had started a project (which is now complete), sewing some sneaker uppers, but toward the end I snapped a needle and found I had been sewing with a size 22. It's ok, but I really wanted to sew with a smaller needle to get a smaller more "high end" looking stitch. I went to put it in a new needle that was provided, but none of them worked. None of them would catch the bobbin thread, from size 16-21. Come to find out they sent me the wrong needle system, as I needed dpx5 and those werent it. So now I'm on ebay trying to find needles but all of these numbers and letters are confusing. There are lots of options. 2 part question: 1. If I buy needles, as long as it's the right system, can I use a smaller size?? For instance, it's seems my machine is set for a size 22, will a size 18 or 20 work?? For 69 thread. 2. If that answer is no, is it worth changing something internally so that I can sew with a smaller needle? I would have to be walked through this over the phone, as I am 4 hours away from the nearest professional. For more background, I don't plan to sew over 6 oz of leather. I sew Python and lamb skins, and would like to sew croc and stingray soon. But I also want to sew fabrics, like Pendleton and suedes, which look like requires ball points but leather requires diamond. (Any info on points appreciated too) Any advice?? Thank you!!!!
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I am selling my Cobra Class 4-P. I bought it just under a year ago. Other things have caught my attention and I hardly use it now. It has less then 48 hours of work put on this Great machine. I really don't want to get rid of it, but for the last two or three months I have not used it. Slow business and other hobbies are the reason I'm selling it. I am located in Daleville, Alabama. About 25 minutes west of Dothan. I would prefer the buyer to pick this machine up. I will drive up to an hour. As of right now, I'm not shipping it. I'm asking $2,600. $2,500 if you come pick it up. I have attached the Craigslist posting here> http://dothan.craigslist.org/for/5815551328.html
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Hi all. Just picked up a cheap Pfaff 1445 in so so condition. I regret not doing enough research to discover that it's apparently a somewhat rare machine with few compatible parts. Does anyone have the operator manual (not the service manual)? I'm aware kwokhing.com for presser feet. Are there any other compatible feet available? How about service parts?
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VERY NICE machine ,works well . It loves 69 thread but will sew with a little heavier . I keep her cover on her all the time . She's not aloud to get dirty. From prices I see I think $700.00 with the motor drive option. . PICK UP ONLY IN MARLTON,N.J.
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WE DO SEWING MACHINE REPAIR AND MANITENANCE ON HOME AND INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES IN JONESBORO, ARKANSAS
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I am selling my Tippmann Boss Sewing machine. It is an aluminum model. It comes with four spools of thread, Material guide attachment, six bobbins, assorted needles, and Tippmann tool box. I purchased this machine used a couple years ago and I just don't use it enough to keep it around. This is a great machine and it has always sewn well. It is a Tippmann so you will have to learn how to adjust the tension on it for the leather you are sewing. This forum has been a great resource for me with this machine and I really enjoyed sewing with it. I would be willing to ship this item (only in the USA) but would like to make the transaction in person if at all possible. I am located in Sioux Falls, South Dakota. Buyer would pay any shipping fees. If we can arrange to meet in person I will throw in the bench I made for it. If you want to discuss the machine you can call or text me at 605-390-2646 Or email me at barlaam AT live DOT com Price is $1000 Thanks Ben
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I am selling my King Cobra class 4-25 machine. Due to health reasons I am closing down my shop. I will have more to sell, but I need to go through everything first and that may take a while. This machine is practically brand new it has less than 10 hrs on it and looks and runs great. It comes with everything that came with it. 25" Arm Electronic needle position system Tripple feed mechanism 3-22 stitches per inch Takes thread sizes 69-415 heavy duty speed reducer led light will sew 6oz - 7/8" material comes with needles, thread, bobbins and all the attachments I have. asking $2,800 I can create the machine up and take it to the shipper, but the buyer is responsible for paying shipping or I can meet you within 200 miles of Kalispell Mt. Brand new from Leather Machine Co. The cost is $3,695 plus $300 for shipping. Please email metzler77@yahoo.com if you have any questions. Thank you
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Hi all, I am selling my Tippmann Boss on ebay. It's been only slightly used (only for about a dozen projects or so) and works very well. It's in excellent condition and comes with the accessories kit. I'm also throwing in a dual, led gooseneck light that you can see is attached with a zip tie. I paid over $1800 for everything ($1495 for Boss, $299 for accessories + taxes, s/h). Selling everything for $1600. Shipping is calculated on checkout. Only selling within the U.S. If you want to take a look you can follow this link: http://goo.gl/k2i7b8
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Here is a link to my CL ad http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/tls/5658472155.html I'm more than happy to send more photos and answer any questions. I'll also offer a discount to this group only. $800. I prefer pickup here in Cincy. I will travel as far as 100 miles to meet someone. Columbus, Louisville, Indianapolis, Dayton, Lexington etc. Thanks, Andy
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Hey guys, long time no talk! Been ghost the past few months but I've made considerable progress in my sewing and shoemaking ventures. Photos to follow in another post! Anyway, I have a Consew 206rb. After having my machine for over 6 months, I up and decided to change out my needle, as I thought maybe it was dull and could help me avoid the occasional skipped stitch. Low and behold, I had been stitching everything with a size 22 organ needle! Now, I wasn't too upset about this, as all my work up until that point looked fairly decent. The issue comes in when I input a size 16 needle, which from my understanding is the correct needle for sewing leather, which is what I do pretty exclusively. Smaller needle = smaller hole, which gives a cleaner looking stitch. I thought I was winning, until the needle refused to actually "stitch". I'm using white 69 bonded nylon thread on some white cow leather about 3oz thick. The needle is feeding in the upper tension and the bobbin, but it's not locking the stitch, so when I stop sewing, there is just holes in my leather but no thread, on the top or bottom. Even more interesting, when I went to see on a different piece of scrap Horween leather about the same thickness, it worked fine! Any ideas on why this is? Does my needle really just not like this leather, or should I be making an adjustment somewhere? Stitching about 8 spi. Attached a photo of the leather I'm sewing with the size 22 needle just to give you an idea of what it looks like. Thanks
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Hi! Been lurking on this forum for a while and recently been looking into leather patchers for my amature shoemaking. I should start of with saying that I have no prior experience using sewing machines nor servicing them. I've been looking for something to sew shoe uppers with (usually about two layers of 1.5-2.5 oz calf leather leather), and if possible soles as well (8-10 oz leather, although I can keep doing these by hand if needed). Been looking into singer 29k models and it seems pretty good for what I want to do. It seems relatively easy to use as there seems to be alot of replacement parts available and alot of information to find online. The hand crank is a very good feature aswell, especially since I don't have alot of space in my apartement and don't need the threadle. One of the machines I found is this model recently, seems a bit more modern than most 29k's that I have found so far. Any idea which model and if its a good machine for a beginner? Its around 350 euros. I also found this other machine that seems to be from around the 1880's, might be called "Patent elastique" by Husqvarna or J. A. Nilson. Only 150 euros, but I can't really find alot of information about it. Thanks in advance, looking forward to be a part of this community. -Rainy -
After much debate I have decided to try and sell my Ludwig 205-370 heavy duty cylinder arm leather stitcher. Due to time constraints from my job I am just not doing enough leather work anymore to justify keeping it and I could really use the room in my shop, so I will sadly let it go. This machine is an exact copy of the Adler 205-370 and operates just as smoothly as the actual Adler I tried at Weaver Leather. It is in fantastic condition and has no issues. If you're not familiar with this model, they will do everything one of the 441 / "Class 4" machines will do and run smoother while doing it. The machine includes a swing-away edge guide, an adjustable height table/stand, auto-bobbin winder, speed reducer, and a quality servo motor. I have a few different presser feet and feed dogs for it, several packages of needles, a few spools of bonded nylon thread, and several bobbins. I also have the Weaver timing device and digital copies of the Adler manuals. I am asking $1,500.00 for the machine and all the accessories I have for it. It would be a tremendous effort to break this thing down and crate it to ship because it's HEAVY and BIG, so I would really prefer local pickup. However, if someone is willing to pay for the effort required to ship it I am willing to do the work as a last resort. I am located near Huntington, WV. Feel free to ask any questions you have about it or if you'd like to see any other pictures. I am not in a bind or "needing" to sell it in any way, so I'm not going to accept any low-ball offers. If I can't get within reason of what it is worth for it, I'll just cover it up and keep it. If interested you can message me here, email me at evandailey@suddenlink dot net, or call or text at 304-six33-489two.
