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Showing results for tags 'lacing'.
Found 36 results
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Do you typically bevel the strap before lacing ... double loop for example ... or is it better to leave the hard edges on the strap before lacing?
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I made these two folios not so long ago. They have been very nice to have about and are strong and protective. The larger one is for an A4 document folder, the smaller one is for an A5 visual diary. They were both made for personal use in a creative storm. Veg tan leather, stained with an 'antique' oil then kangaroo lacing edges using a round braid. Both were then pyrographed and painted with iridescent paint. This paint is super fun. Changes in appearance depending on the direction of the light source.
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does anyone have a chap lacing diagram for closure
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I've been doing a lot of give away leather covers for & with Journals ( Office Max etc ), and books. The general pattern is adding 1 Inch to both the height and width of book and then make two pockets fastened with perimeter lacing around the cover edges. The pockets can slip a bit when I use the cover slits as a template so I use bread ties to keep in relative position. However...Slippage still occurs. Watching other U-Tube leathercrafters using sewing techniques they often use glue on edges. That looks like a great solution, but I want to be able to use Hide Restorer in these zones since they are most exposed to weather, etc. That brings me to the question 'Is it possible to use an adhesive while punching lace slits ( 1/4" ) and then remove it to allow application of restorers?' If so, what can be recommended?' -
I got a request to make a holster "just like this one", most of the holster could be a model for the Al Stohlman book except for the lacing. Looking at the trigger area, the leather is joined at a 90 deg angle. The only way I can see to do that is to do a normal lacing stitch but keep it a little loose and then rotate the leather to the 90 deg angle and then tighten up the lacing. The entire seam isn't so extreme, but it's not flat. Any suggestions? This is also 1/4" lace so i'm going to have to make a 1/4" thonging awl since I can't find one.
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Here is a few of my tips for getting your sewing to look like it was machine stitched. I took a few photos and a video, to hopefully show and explain it a bit better.... As you all know a saddle stitch is very nice looking and is accomplished by threading a needle on each end of the thread. The rule of thumb I use for measuring my piece of thread is slightly more than 3 times the length of your stitching. 3 times the length is how much thread you will use and the little more gives you enough thread to pass the needle into the thread to lock it as you work, and when you get to the end of your piece you have enough thread to backstitch to lock your sewing in place with no nasty looking knots. EG... if your piece to be stitched is 4" long, then you would cut a piece of thread that is 14" long (3 times 4" is 12" with 2" left over to lock the needle and backstitch). You start with your first hole by pushing one needle into the first hole, and pull the thread through until you have EQUAL amounts of thread on either side of your work. Now your ready to start stitching. It is always best to work from right to left, or left to right, but ALWAYS maintain that direction. Imagine your piece of work on a stitching pony in front of you... you have one needle in your right hand, and one in your left to help explain it. In this case I am working from right to left, meaning I push the right needle in first, then push the left needle through. Once you snug up the thread, you start into the next hole with the needle that is now on the right. When doing this, you should notice your right thread is always BEHIND your left thread. This is the key to making it look like it was machine sewn, and getting an even sturdy stitch. Push the right needle through and pull the thread a bit. Then push the LEFT needle through in FRONT of the thread you just pushed through. When pulling the thread tight, always pull the needles from ABOVE the threads in the holes, and when pulling the left needle, make sure it is between and above the threads in the work. The video and pictures below should help to explain this a bit better if I have confused you with my instructions.
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Hi, I’m new to this forum and to leather work. Can you clarify for me the appropriate difference between lace width and hole size? I have Tandy craftool chisels in 2.5mm, 3.0mm and 3.5mm tang width. I have lace in 2.4mm. I want to edge a piece with round braid. What size holes should I choose? Oh, the piece is made from thin-ish leather, maybe 2-3 oz, doubled. Thanks in advance.
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I am creating a leather paper tray. I stamped the inner sides and bottom with a basket weave and hand stitched the sides together. I’m now lacing the top edge with a round braid but can’t seem to get the corner right. I know how to do a corner on a flat piece of leather but since the tray does not have a corner hole I can’t figure out how to lace the corner. Help!
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Can anyone tell me if there is a technique to lace edges with the whip stitch in three colours? I know there is a tri cordovan but I’m after something simple that I can incorporate three colours into the edges of belts. Doesn’t need to hold anything together, purely for the aesthetic look. Photos, video or tutorial would be much appreciated! Thanks!
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Well i wanted a lacing pony but didnt want to spend any money. So i made this one, the idea is that its easy packable and portable, parallel jaws for maxium friction so minimum pressure needed. Its just two boards, rounded and split leather added, at the bottom spacers added, just turn them around for no space, one layer spacer or two layer spacer. To keep jaws parallel to your work. Then tiny sash cramps, to add pressure but to also use as support on top of your knees, this way you can adjust the height perfectly.
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I inherited a partially built purse. It is a Tandy Marketplace kit. My brother in law started it and I would like to finish it. Instead of using the side leather pieces he laced the sides together. Now I don't know where to attach the long shoulder handle? I thought if I used a 2 inch piece of leather and wrapped it over the lacing then rivet it, I do not want to damage the lacing or have it not hold up. Any help is appreciated.
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I thought my copy of Bruce Grant's Encyclopedia of Rawhide & Leather Braiding wasn't leather braidy enough, so I made a jacket. It's starting to look more appropriate now.
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Hello, I was wondering if there is a good/simple method for lacing the end of a belt together to hold the buckle in? I need something that is very strong and will withstand the test of time. I was thinking possibly of doubling up on the lacing. In this case would you lace a boxstitch pattern? How would you finish it so the lace doesn't just come unravelled ? Thanks!
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Hello Fellow Leatherworkers! I know there is no substitution for Kangaroo lace, and it's with a heavy heart that as of January 1st of this year, California has once again banned the importing of Kangaroo lace. I've been using Y-Knot Lace for the last six months. They are and have been amazing. But, until my wife and I move to Austin, Texas, I need to get your opinions on what brand and type of lacing is second best to Roo lace. I've used the Premium Calf Lace from Tandy... it's so so and very inconsistent. Lately it has had a real hard, waxy feel to it. Any feedback and help would be greatly appreciated in this time of mourning. The majority of my leather goods incorporate lacing... to say I'm obsessed with lacing would be an understatement. Help me make the most of being a California resident for the time being. Thanks. All the best, Brett C.
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• 10 oz vegetabil leather • 250 meters of kangaroo lace • Tooled straps • Handmade beltbuckles
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So I have a friend visiting and I need to figure out something I can make quickly that is still nice that she'll like. I come up with the idea of a small clutch or coin purse in the shape of a cat's face. I look around on the internet a bit for ideas and am not really seeing anything, so I do a few sketches and land on this one. Actually the sketch wound up being a frankenstein-like cat purse, but it seemed that everything was fighting me so I went simpler. For one thing, I couldn't find any rivets that were short enough for only one layer of leather. I'm not thrilled about the giant snap in the middle of the forehead, especially without the small rivets along the top to distract from it, but at least it's dark so it's not too noticeable from a distance. The lacing was another thing that gave me fits. I had gotten some of it completed when the lacing snapped, it was simply too old and had become brittle. I had already poked slits all around the edge though, so what can I do but lace? So I grab one of my longer pieces of Horween, a straight edge ruler, and a rotary cutter and try to make a consistent piece of lace and am moderately successful. It's much too thick to pull through the lacing slots though, and I'm not confident of my ability to skive the entire thing down. So I punch holes where the slits are and get lacing. You know something about thicker lace? It takes up more material. I was THREE HOLES SHORT. In retrospect, I probably could have pounded the lace to flatten it out more and add length before I started lacing, but hindsight and all that. So I cut a little more lace and splice it in. I think it turned out alright despite myself. Oh, and I probably should have used contrasting thread for the mouth, but I was really crunched for time at that point so shallow taps with the lacing nail and I called it acceptable. -
Hello, I was wondering if anyone could help me identify and tell me how to do this stitch, trim, lace, I'm not sure of the correct term. I learned this a very long time ago, but can no longer remember how to do it or the name, can anyone help me please? Thank you, Krystyna
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Finally got brave enough to try making something besides bracelets with the Horween I have. Based off of figure 66 illustration on page 44 in the book Purses in Pieces, I made the sides suede since it's strong and flexible, plus I had just gotten a nice dark brown hide that matches the Horween pretty nicely. I cut the lacing with a straight edge and a rotary cutter, I'm definitely going to have to get a lace cutter if I keep doing this because my consistency was crap. Still, I think I did pretty well considering I couldn't find my calipers (where DOES this stuff go?!) and I was making each hole one by one with a nail that had been flattened out and filed to make the lacing holes. I think it will flatten out a bit as it's used, right now it's keeping the shape of being rolled up plus the tension from the lacing.
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Most of my purses are put together via thick latigo like lacing (not flat style braiding lace...as of yet), I often make my own from hand oiled, dyed, and finished veg tan leather, ranging from 4-5 ounce to 7-8 ounce. It does the trick, but I'd like to up the quality of lace and possibly just buy a dyed utility hide and go from there. I have done so before with black and burgundy latigo and it did turn out nice, but I'd like to see what other options there are out there. I don't mind the idea of an oily utility leather for lace either. Any of you more experienced Leather workers have any advice or suggestions on this matter? As well, has anyone ever tried this lacing? It is nice to have a bit of back up pre-made lacing on hand: http://zelikovitz.com/courses.html?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=5700&category_id=165 Thanks in advance! -Cheyenne
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From the album: 276ccm´s Leather Work
© Marius Mellebye
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From the album: 276ccm´s Leather Work
© Marius Mellebye
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From the album: 276ccm´s Leather Work
© Marius Mellebye
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Hi, Ive been busy lacing a bag and haven't realised until I have finished a whole section that I have missed one lacing hole. This has caused a slight bulge in the bags panel. I don't really want to unpick the lace as it is about half way through two yards of lace. I think it would be better to cut the lace and splice in a section. If I do this does any one have any recommendation about how many holes above and below the missing lace hole I should go up to? Any help is appreciated. Thanks Jack
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Hi folks, been off the site for a while but I'm still reading and learning and getting a few things done. Made this last week for a charity auction. Slightly altered the sporran I made before to include a strap and put a belt loop on the back. That's their logo on the front. -
I've promised to do a project for my world's-best-brother. I'm wading into deep waters, literally. No clue how to cover a boat steering wheel. Except I've done well on oxbow stirrups so I have false confidence. Questions I should ask are (1) materials for a boat wheel? Suppliers here's your moment! (2) tutorial recommendations for the lacing approach. (I'm good with the oxbow stirrup lacing but again, different beast.) (3) oh, and pretty much how-to on all the rest of it too. I'll be flying across country to do this. So my tools need to be considered in advance. Thank you!
