JLSleather

yeah, that's normally what i do... clockwise thing. Using the left toe (toward the end of teh cylinder). And git that goofy little "platform" thing out of your way if you're not using the holster plate. Just take it off, put in a drawer somewhere

You'll get "answers" on this to no end. Stand on your left foot looking east in the morning, they'll tell you But yeah, I thin about every color - including the "pro" dye - on all but the darkest browns and black. And I thin it with the thinner made for that. A quart goes a long way, unless you're dip dyeing saddles Not sure what you had in the oil that caused the smell -- neatsfoot has very little smell. I don't use it on everything, but where I do use it I use it AFTER the dye and sparsely applied. Light coats.

Got a pic? Never really had a prollem with those -- might depend on the DIRECTION yer sewin' too?

It's more labor, but I'd lean on them to go with the 1 1/2" buckle. Make the collar a bit like a ranger belt, billets on top of main body. Me, I like conway buckles on collars anyway -- no pulling PAST where it fits to get it on. And over the main body keeps leather between the buckle and the dog -- no pinching skin or pulling hair. Pinch the cop, I won't even notice. Mistreat the dog, we got a issue In fact, I've been TALKING about doing these en masse for too long .. think I'll design some dies and start clickin' em out!

Don't seem like much of a "saving" to spend $200 on something you don't need

Hot butter call me jealous -- i aint got no ex. Perhaps one day, though... fella kin hope, right? Meanwhile, just makin' stuff and tellin' jokes.. gittin too cold ta fish.

Yup - 4 or 5 oz veg liner and you'll be all fixed up, more than "firm" enough to keep it from "rolling".

I do what I feel like doing. Occasionally I have taken on those things where I don't really care for it, but they're writing a good check. In the end, I usually end up rather preferring that I hadn't agreed to do it. And the next time something comes up like that, I remember not enjoying that, and go back to doing what I would have liked to do.

man, do I know THAT feelin' You dun smoothed it out purdy good. Want the really only not-so-fluffy comment? I hate those flower center things. Ya gotter lookin' good -- purdy darn "positive" when the rest of yer carvin' is nice enough that somebody notice the flower center

It will depend on teh REASON you want to "try your hand" at it. What is the desired outcome? Spring steel does exactly that.. it wants to return to the shape it started in when formed (with banding, that would be FLAT). So, bending it around a pistol would be a bit difficult, but once in place it WOULD tend to try to return to flat and thus tend to keep a holster "open". If all you are wanting is a holster that is more "firm" or "solid", just make it from 2 pieces of top grain leather - for example 2 pieces of 4 oz instead of a layer of 8 oz -- and it should be more than firm enough. I've made holsters with a double layer of Hermann Oak 4 oz leather that were a weapon in themselves.. if you don't have bullets, you could just hit an attacker with the holster At that point, "sammiched" metal is little more than a marketing gimmick.

Most the people who contact me using words like "high quality" want their belt lined. On something so "novelty", I would likely still line it, though you could probably get away with lining with some type of fabric if cost is an issue. Candy striped maybe? But for me, I would think that someone specifically asked for "more quality" wouldn't mind paying the added cost of leather liner. The STITCHING costs more than the leather on a belt that size!

I got away from that type. Your glue won't set up on you in there, EXCEPT that the more you have it open the more it loses the reducer - so it will set up when left open. But sitting on the table with glue in there won't cause a problem. I used to use those, and maybe once a year knock the top off and then hot glue it back on once it's all cleaned out in there. You might just as easily clean it on occasion by scraping out the majority, then flushing with glue thinner. You'll likely get leather bits in there, or brush hairs, and at some point you will want to clean it out. I went to the plastic dispensers, and throw away brushes I pick up right at hobby lobby -- like $5 for a 6 pack -- use em for a while and pitch it, grab the next one ....

HEY this one slipped past me. Don't mind the auto rig either, but I'm really likin' that "bleedin' shark" wheelie

HEY I LIKE IT... great color and "texture".

OH.. well that guy SUCKS. But you "could' wet form that, it will work Just WET the leather - don't SOAK it. I generally get it a little wet, OPEN it up with your finger or a stick, and then dunk it in water for a couple of seconds. Idea is to get the moisture going THRU the holster.

What template? Probably some ARE meant to be wet formed, and some are NOT. Which do you have?

Yup, that works in teh states too And PUH LEEZE .. no more "cool to the touch" If my thermostat is set at 64, the leather is ALWAYS "cool to the touch", no matter wet or dry. If you're toolin' in San Antonio, I doubt there's much "cool to the touch".

Some folks just put a band aid there BEFORE stitching. If you do it with any regularity, it will toughen up right there and likely won't bother you any more.

uhh.. you answer yer own question -- those panels on the holsters are Hermann Oak tooling leather dyed with Fiebing's mahogany (thinned about 2 parts dye to 1 part reducer, or so).

http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/82797-slcs-gift-to-you/?tab=comments#comment-559909