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Northmount

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Everything posted by Northmount

  1. Used mine a couple weeks ago, had to replace a line on my compressor. I have a newer one that works a little better than the old one. Should dump the old one someday I guess. Tom
  2. For general information. 1 oz = 1/64" and of course there are 25.4 mm per inch. Tom
  3. Bottom item looks an awful lot like half of my copper tubing flaring tool. Check out Bruce Johnson's rein rounders for comparison. https://brucejohnsonleather.com/leather-tools-sale/leather-bench-machines-sale/ Tom
  4. You appear to be USA based. Would be a good idea to add your location to your profile so you can get location specific responses rather then half way around the world from you. Try http://www.texascustomdies.com/products.php for new dies. They have some standard dies, ready made, plus can make any you wish. Tom
  5. Yes, they don't bottom out, letting you cinch down tighter on thinner materials. Tom
  6. Buff it off. Remove the extra pigment from the surface. Next time, preferably before you start putting any finish on top. Tom
  7. Fingernail polish works to lock the threads too. Tom
  8. Very neat and precise work. Tom
  9. Belts don't need to be really tight. Some users leave some slack so they can use the right hand to slow the machine down somewhat, especially if they are using a clutch motor. A little slack is also good if you happen to pull the needle to one side, breaking it, and causing a jam. Then you don't have to rely as much on the safety clutch to protect your machine. Generally there is enough adjustment on the motor bracket to allow you to tighten the belt as far as needed. If the belt is not the right length, you won't be able to adjust it. Vee belts should not ride on the bottom of the pulley. The top of the belt should generally be flush or nearly flush with the top of the pulley. It is the friction on the sides of the belt that transmit the driving force to/from the pulleys. At the mid point between pulleys, you should be able to depress the belt about an inch with firm thumb pressure. Should not be hard to do. It is not like vee belts driving fans, ac compressor and alternator on a car. They need to be much tighter due to the amount of power they have to transmit. Tom
  10. Strange about receiving emails even though you have configured your profile to not send email. I have the opposite, configured to send me emails for certain cases, never receive any. Login to your profile and give it a fake email address. That should stop them, and you shouldn't be bothered with any more. Worth a try. Tom
  11. Wood can be quite adequate. A fireplace wood carrier uses 3/4" wood dowel. Carries a very heavy load. 3/8" might do well for a hand bag. Have also seen brass rod used. Tom
  12. Northmount

    ABOK

    Ashley book of knots pdf and other formats at https://archive.org/details/TheAshleyBookOfKnots Tom
  13. Northmount

    ABOK

    Several at: https://www.abebooks.com/book-search/title/encyclopedia-of-knots-and-fancy-rope-work/ Tom
  14. @Wizcrafts, in case you missed this. Debbie, Are your tension disks clean? Tom
  15. Moved to sewing machines forum. You'll get more information there than under help wanted. Help wanted is like the classifieds help wanted in a newspaper. Tom
  16. Here is another thread / needle chart with some additional information. Includes thread diameter and strength. http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html Tom
  17. This design is rather large for a coaster. Shrinking it would make some of the detail very fine, which of course would increase the level of difficulty substantially. I would suggest a less complicated design for a coaster. You might look on the web for line drawings, coloring books, and such. Tom
  18. Provided by @Constabulary and @qvt Large file 18 MB Manual Singer 132K6 Seiko SK-7 SK-8 SK-26.pdf Optimized to 400 dpi and text searchable 3 MB Manual Singer 132K6 Seiko SK-7 SK-8 SK-26 os.pdf Thanks Constabulary for forwarding the file to be uploaded here. Tom
  19. It's a good idea to put your location in your profile. Then people know where you are and can respond with better information tailored to your location. You might even find some leatherworkers nearby. Tom
  20. Great! Now complete this thread by sharing your learnings so others here could use it. Would be much appreciated. Tom
  21. Here are pictures of one I have. 24" x 2.5". Just over 1/8" thick so 8 plus oz (4mm). Note the back of the leather strop is grooved across its width. Reason unknown to me, other than it would be a little more flexible. Leather is relatively hard. The second strap is linen weave. Very slippery like it was Teflon coated. Bought in a 2nd hand/antique store a few years ago for about $25. Had never been used. The linen weave part reminds me of the flat belting used on line shaft driven equipment, except they weren't slippery. Tom
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