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Northmount

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Everything posted by Northmount

  1. It must be a brush type motor and the brushes are vibrating in the brush holder as the commutator turns. Check the brushes are not worn out (too short). If the motor is new, they may wear in and stop squealing. There will be two brushes, one on each side of the motor. Usually a black cap with a screwdriver slot. Don't over tighten or you may break the external part of the brush holder. Tom
  2. When you measure pulley size, use the outside diameter of the pulley. There are 3 parts to pulley size. Width at the top of the groove determines belt width. the other 2 are OD and ID. When calculating pulley ratios, always use the OD of the pulleys. Belts are meant to ride at the top, not down in the bottom. If the pulley is too wide, the belt rides in the bottom and it slips. Comments about clutch motors: They are fine for people that are well experienced using a clutch motor. You have to be able to slip the clutch (like slipping the clutch in a car/truck with a manual transmission when you are starting up from a stop). If you miscalculate, the machine will take off like a jack rabbit. If you want to crawl, you need lots of practice. For Servo motors: To be able to go really slow, like a stitch per second or slower, you need a system that will provide high torque at very slow speeds, especially if you are sewing thick or hard tempered leather. I have a servo with built in gear reduction 3:1. At the lowest speed setting, it didn't have the torque needed to punch through 10 oz. belts at a crawl so I could carefully go around the tip of the billet. I assembled a pulley speed reducer with 2" and 7.5" pulleys. That gives a 3.75:1 speed reduction. That gives me an 11.2:1 overall speed reduction. Actually when you count the servo pulley and the machine pulley as well, it is about 16:1. Only expensive servo motors have high torque at low speeds and can literally step. Typical sewing machine servos lose torque at low speeds. This is true of most all AC motors and even DC motors depending upon their winding configuration. So you need to have enough motor speed to develop the torque required for the job. Thus you need to have either a gear or pulley speed reduction system to do what you want to do. Tom
  3. @aroh99 Moved your post to leather sewing machines. Tom
  4. Hi @VeeBee. Moved your post to leather sewing machines. You'll get more answers here. Tom
  5. A capacitor start motor should have better starting torque. Check what you have versus capacitor start. Tom
  6. @Blackbird @Rohn Blackbird hasn't been on this site since March. So it looks like he may not be interested in following up on his posting. If there is no response from him, remind me in a couple days to move this to "old and sold" and to lock this thread. Tom
  7. Great information! Which type of contact cement are you using? Tom
  8. It always takes on a slope as continue the lacing. I always take out the first few stitches when I connect back up. The circle accentuates the slope. You could use the same hole 5 holes or so, or just accept it and take out several of the beginning stitches until the slope matches up. Tom
  9. @Joelle Moved to leather sewing machines. Tom
  10. @Zsuzsu Moved to leather sewing machines. You are more likely to get answers and help here. Tom
  11. @Glaciersew Moved to Leather Sewing Machines. You'll get more answers here. Tom
  12. Still waiting for photos. Tom
  13. You might try Longview Leather. They are about 3/4 hour south of Calgary, AB. http://www.longviewleather.com/ They have a 12" wide band knife. Tom
  14. Have you read this http://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/50-leather-sewing-machines/ or this http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/25239-the-type-of-sewing-machine-you-need-to-sew-leather/ Tom
  15. Really fantastic work. Inspiring to us all. I've only done a small amount of figure carving. Will take me centuries to get to your level of accomplishment. Tom
  16. This question is asked over and over here. Resize the photo. Some phones will let you do it just by selecting the size before taking the photo, others will let you do it during an upload, others will have to run a resizer app to do it. Look at this forum http://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/33-computer-help/ Tom
  17. If you start marking out your stitching at both ends of a straight run, you will likely need to adjust the distance between stitches near the middle so it looks like they are evenly placed instead of having a very short stitch or long gap. It also works if you mark from one end, you can adjust the spacing at the opposite end to make the stitch lengths fit nicely. Looks like you just lay the template over your stitch line to mark the remaining stitches. Tom
  18. If you hover over the username or avatar, you will see the option to hide the user's posts. I assume that on a phone, you would tap the username or avatar to pull up the same choice. Edit: @RusticLeatherShop has been warned and placed under moderator review. All his posts will require moderator review and approval. Tom
  19. If you resize photos to 800 x 600 or even 1024 x 768 pixels, there will be no problems uploading as many photos as you want to in a post. If you do a little checking of what size your photos are before hand, and what you can or need to do to make them fit, all should go smoothly. An old saying, "An ounce of preparation is worth a pound of cure" certainly applies here. Photos sized above are more than adequate for most things you want to post. Also reduces upload and download time for those people who live on the fringes of the internet or have otherwise limited internet speed and service. Still lots of places in the world with slow access. Tom
  20. If you include site:leatherworker.net in the search string, then it is forced to this site only. Google really irritates me when it ignores words that I really want in the search string, so I think it could drop your "+leatherworker.net" parameter as well if it is not finding enough instances. Tom
  21. @rfkoen You have responses that you should be responding to if you are really serious about helping sell these clickers. When you make a post like this you should be checking back at least once a day. I see you haven't been back here since Sep 15. Tom
  22. @RonJr When the thread is laying on the top, there is too much top tension, or vice versa, too little bottom tension. But first make sure that the machine is threaded properly, especially where it breaks the thread. Are you holding the thread tails when you start sewing a seam? If not, you need to as it can result in a birds nest on the bottom side and result in breaking the thread, jamming the needle, and even bending or breaking the needle. The tension would also be lost for the first several stitches. Tom
  23. Leave it alone for 2 or 3 days to allow the oil to fully disperse through the leather. Areas that have been tooled soak up a lot more oil just due to the rougher surface that collects more oil than a smooth surface. In the future, oiling from the back side may help avoid this problem. Always go easy on the amount of oil you use. Hard to remove it if too much is used and it gets soggy! Nice job! Tom
  24. Note also that these are two different wallets. The first one has the pouch zipper facing into the fold. The second has the pouch zipper facing out. The second one is similar to an accordion purse/wallet. I quite like the second one even though it is more complicated to put together, especially the accordion gussets. Tom Edit: Here is a file that may help. I don't recall where it came from so I can't give credit for it.Long Wallet Templates.pdf
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