Northmount

A little info here Also look at this page http://www.montanapitchblend.com/our-story.html Tom

Coat both ends with something (like tar or similar product) to stop the ends drying out before the rest dries. Moisture wicks up the grain to the ends. Stop that and it dries slower and less risk of cracking and splitting. I have a neighbor that does a lot of woodturning. He puts the logs (cut to lengths he uses) into a box full of sawdust and wood shavings. Slows down and equalizes the drying process. Needs to be stirred up every few days to get rid of some moisture and to bring some fresh air in. Tom

I pass through Claresholm every now and then. Sunday and Monday this week. There are a number of members in the Calgary area. Show us some of your work. We're always interested in photos. Tom

Where in Alberta? And welcome to the forum Tom

If you tell people where you are located, you might find some interest or help near by. Tom

FYI, Via post to my profile, he is located in Lindsay, Ontario. Tom

Welcome to the forum and addiction. Hope to see some of your work soon. What type of work are you interested in doing? What part of the world are you from? Tom

Here are some links about copyright and fair use I came across this morning. They contain good information and "lots of opinion". Helps to define fair use, derivative works, transformation, etc. After reading them, it appears we should give credit to the originator even though our work may be very transformative. For example, it we take someone's photograph, convert it to a line drawing, use that as a tracing pattern to tool a piece of leather, we should give credit to the originator, even though there is really no copyright infringement due to the transformative nature of our work. It is good etiquette. Further, the originator should be asked for their permission, again as good etiquette. http://blogs.scientificamerican.com/compound-eye/infringement-or-fair-use-have-a-look/ http://blogs.scientificamerican.com/compound-eye/infringement-or-fair-use-part-ii-the-opinioning/ http://bizarrocomics.com/2013/07/21/fly-by-drawing/ Tom

Nice job. Red purses really stand out. Tom

Check the links listed in the OP. They state cost, date and location. Tom

They are a reaction between iron and the tannins in the leather. Just like vinegaroon used to make vegtan leather black. You can use oxalic acid or lemon juice to bleach it out. Cause is little specs, filings of iron on the surface of your wood or dropped on the leather. Keep all filings etc. away from your leather working area. Tom

If the leather is lifting with the needle, and pulling up the presser foot, you need more pressure on the presser foot to keep it down. A different batch of harder leather could have done this to you. Also, a larger needle can do it too. Don't leave any plier marks on the needle or anything in the thread path, else it will snag and damage the thread leading to what appears to be tension problems, and birds nests under the feed dogs and plate. As above posts mention, pull all the thread out and clean up around the bobbin and hook, then rethread carefully to make sure it is done right. Tom

Edit is only available for a short time after posting. So if it has timed out, continue with a new post. If there is something you really need it edited, ask a moderator. Tom

There are lots of threads here about stitching clams, and horses. Including clams with cam lock. Try a search and I'm sure you'll find all you want to know very quickly. Tom

I would think the old singer would do what you want better than a seamstress/dress making machine will. I have a techsew 2700 and a 1975 singer industrial 20-33 dress making machine. For light weight flat stuff (2 or 3 layers of 1mm each of pigskin, etc. for wallet liners), the singer does okay. The 2700 cylinder arm does better for most stuff, especially for purses where you need to be able to reach inside. I use the 2700 more than the singer. When you get a machine, get leather point needles too. They help the backside look a lot better. Call Ron at Techsew and see if he has any used machines. Tom

Great looking boots, as you usually do. Tom

We all get caught on the wrong tack sooner or later. Depends on where our thoughts are at the time. Tom

Nice job. Tom

You need to define what leather you are intending to sew. Garment weight, 3/4" harness, etc. When you decide what type of work you are doing, then you can define what machine can do the work. Techsew is in Montreal. You will get more responses in the sewing machine forum. I'll move your post there. Tom

You can't back stitch by turning the wheel backwards. The hook, bobbin, shuttle are designed to pick up the loop only in one direction. On a machine with no reverse, turn your article 180 degrees so you can stitch forward. Tom

You can buy second hand machines from the dealers too if they have one in stock that suits your needs. Some will put you on their list if they don't have one currently in stock and you can afford to wait. Tom

Best guide is for the buyer to measure his/her current comfortable belt according to your instructions. Pant sizes are not consistent, so would not be an improvement. There are several threads about this topic. Some with pictures/diagrams that you can send to your clients. Tom

Cut a willow switch. You can adjust the whippiness by trimming the skinny end. Take more off, becomes a much stiffer switch. Cheap, easy to replace! Tom

Moved to suppliers. Tom

Have missed your posts and comments. Good to see you are still around. Kids take a lot of time, but provide very long lasting and great memories. Even better than leatherwork. But is sure is nice to squeeze in a bit of time now and then. Good luck with your next move. Tom