Northmount

Very nice job and pattern. I'm sort of partial to oak leaves! Tom

Great masks, even the face is great! Tom

Great idea, especially for the one-off jobs where you may never use it again. Tom

They don't erase for me either on the grain side. So on a prototype, I have a couple dots that I was using for alignment purposes that show. Not appreciated. Should have proved it on some scrap first! Tom

Since you backed off the bottom tension compared to what it was (when it was sewing okay before), I would return it to where it was before. There needs to be some tension on the bottom. But an easy pull without any binding as you pull the thread. Then increase the top tension gradually in steps (if the knot is not being pulled up into the leather) while you are testing it. Make sure the top thread is between the tension disks. The knot should be in the middle of the thickness of the leather. Generally, you should leave the bottom tension alone and adjust the top tension to move the knot into the middle of the leather. (Like all generalizations, when you make big changes to the material you are sewing, or sewing with, you may have to go back to the bobbin and adjust it.) So if the knot is on the bottom of the leather, increase the top tension. If the knot is on the top, then decrease the top tension. If the thread seems loose, not pulled firmly against the leather and the knot is where it should be, then both tensions need to be increased. For a needle/thread size chart take a look at http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html There are lots of threads posted here about setting your tension. It would be worthwhile to do a search for them are see what others experiences have been and learn form them too. Tom

Too little top tension is one of the most common causes of the birds nest under the backside of the leather. Make sure the thread is pulled into the tension discs. If that is okay, then increase the top tension in steps and test it. Go back to the thread that was first installed, or at least to the same size. Check the needle for damage or a bend. Tom

Put a piece of fibreglass mesh like used for drywall joints between the layers, or nylon web or such. There is a thread here about reinforcing dog collars that you could search for here. Has some good comments and remedies for straps that stretch. Tom

I have fewer problems with oxalic acid than with the volatile solvents used in cements, dyes and lacquer finishes. As with any chemical you use, read the warnings on the labels and check out the manufacturer's MSDS sheets. Most are available online. Oxalic acid does not need to be highly concentrated to do its job. Strength I use it at smells less than vinegar does. Tom I should add that the oxalic acid "dust" from the crystals would be quite dangerous rather than the weak fumes from the diluted acid. So be careful with the crystals, don't stir up a bunch of dust while measuring out what you need.

I have one, PM me. Tom

Great job! Well done. Tom

I see an error code 3 show up. For some servos, that is a motor overload. Have you tried hand wheeling the machine with no thread, no belt so you can feel whatever is catching? It could be a fault in the servo, but I really doubt it. To me it sounds like you have a mechanical problem. Tom Edit: Follow Wiz's advice to determine where the binding is happening.

From 7 and up seem to be somewhat similar. Tom

Aluminum may leave marks, like pencil marks, on leather if the edge is accidentally drug along the surface of the leather. Try it and see what you think to see how careful you need to be. Tom

You should provide some info on your location and expectations for volume of work. Tom

Recommend you download "The Art of Making Leather Cases" Vol 2 by Al Stohlman. There are full instructions for several handles like you want to make. Tom

Servos are available from any of the dealers listed in the banner ads at the top of this page. If you don't see the ads, disable your ad block for this site. Each time you refresh the page, you will see new ads, so you can get to all the dealers. They support this site, and best of all, they help everyone here, not just their customers. In general, most servos will fit, depends on the mounting holes in your table, but they are very standard. More power is usually better. Get one with a 2" or smaller pulley. Might require a shorter belt. Where you have two separate needs, should probably split the request into separate threads. Tom

Do you have the original shipping box for the head? Whether you do or not, I can pull the head and motor off and help you box it up so the mover shouldn't have a problem with moving it. Send me a PM. If you are staying in the Calgary area, I could move it for you (with your help of course). Can't do the heavy work I used to do, so I get in trouble now and then! Tom

Just had a quick look at the WordPress page you have currently working. Notice that in the diagrams on the home page that "height" is spelled wrong. When I go to a site and find typos, misspelled words and such, it dramatically reduces my impression of the credibility of the site and its information. It is always a good idea to have others go through the content (that know the content) plus a couple that don't have experience with the subject and review it to find these little problems. When we read something that we have done, we know what is supposed to be there, and don't see the typos. I've been caught with that problem way to often! I like your gallery of trees. Good info and good views, though I think the thumbnails should be a little larger so it is easier to read the type of tree. For your alphabetical listing, I think it would be a good idea to link the names to the photo so a person can quickly reference the photo without having to go scan through the gallery. Hope you get your domain setup soon so he has a dedicated site. Tom

So what's the coefficient of friction for your 500 lb gantry? FF = mu * N I'm sure that it is properly mounted, aligned, supported with bearings such that you could move it easily with your little finger (with all cables or rack and pinion removed). Try pushing a needle through the leather with your pinky. That's why you bought the sewing machine. Anyway, enough said. Tom

There is a big difference between servos and steppers on CNC machines and those used on sewing machines. My statement was intended for anybody but a CNC user. I normally say "most motors", but neglected to do so this time. Other motors such as used for traction motors don't fit the general statement either, but no one here would draw such a comparison, so I would usually be safe with such a generalization. For your sewing machine servo, 600 W, 0.83 HP, its torque does fall off at low speed. I don't have as heavy a machine as your Cobra, and have a servo with 3:1 gear reducer followed by a 6:1 reduction pulley set. It can go really slow and punch through 3/8" of leather right from the start, and not run away because I had to give it too much juice to get started. Of course my top end speed is much reduced too, but that is the way I want it. I don't need high speed production. There are quite a few threads here about servo motors, pulley reducers, etc. that you can peruse and see what others have experienced and done. Tom

Cut off a length of thread you want to use, tie one end to a doorknob or other fixed point, stretch the thread out tight, take a piece of brown paper, or denim and rub the thread briskly. The heat generated from burnishing will help set the wax into the thread, and the paper or denim will collect the excess. Even after passing the thread through a needle, there is still lots of excess wax. Burnishing with paper or denim works much better. Tom

The slower a motor turns, the lower the torque it produces. To get the punching power (torque) you need for heavier leather, the speed reduction has to come from the speed reducer. Do you have a stepped pulley set (more than 2 belt grooves)? If so make sure the motor belt is in the largest diameter groove, and the machine belt is in the smallest diameter groove. Tom

Did a direct copy and paste. Didn't work. This is the correct URL. http://timberlinesaddletree.wordpress.com. Knock out the extra "s". Also edited first post in the thread and hid invalid info posts. Tom

Have you oiled it yet? Try a little real neetsfoot oil, then some sunshine to see if it will "tan" a little. Don't get carried away with too much oil, and keep it to the area you have cleaned. Let it soak in at least overnight before you judge as to whether it is blotchy or not. Don't try to make the oil application look perfect as soon as you have applied it. Another possibility is to slightly roughen up the surface using some 80 or 100 grit sandpaper, just a little to raise the nap again. Tom

I wear plastic high refractive index to get the weight down. Glass would be 1/4" plus thick at the edges. Also need them to satisfy safety requirements. Too thin in the middle, and they won't meet the required standard. Used to wear hardex, but my nose doesn't like it! My glasses are around 10 years old now, and just beginning to show some scratches. I never use micro-fibre. Always have a clean cotton handkerchief in my pocket. Use it to clean my lenses. Wear safety goggles or face shield when grinding or other stuff (both for eye protection and to help protect the lenses). If splashed with concrete, or such, I don't touch them until I can carefully clean them off. Plastic does scratch easily, even with the so called scratch resistant coating you pay extra for. I got one scratch recently when I set my glasses down, and they flipped over against a sharp tool. Need to be more careful since my hands are sometimes shaky and unsteady now. At least it's not in my normal field of vision. Also have been wearing glasses for over 50 years. About the past 25 has been with plastic lenses. Took me a while before I would agree to try plastic lenses. My nose and ears sure appreciate them, so I wouldn't go back to glass. Glasses are sometimes a real pain, but I wouldn't want to be without them. Tom