Northmount

Thanks for the post Tom

It will work. Make sure there are no feet on it, else hammering on it will eventually crack and break it. Bottom should rest flat on your work bench. If there are feet that can't be removed, you can cut a wood base to fit it. Tom

The top of the swivel knife should feel comfortable in to your finger. The cheap piece of flat curved steel is not comfortable as after a period of use, it feels like it's cutting into your fingers. I also find a larger diameter barrel is easier for me to use. Height should be adjustable, unless you know the height you need, and can buy that specific length. If you go into Tandy, look at the cheap versus more expensive and check how they feel in your hand. It's almost like trying on a glove, some obviously fit well, while others don't. And as above, need a good sharp blade, and strop often to keep it sharp to minimize drag while carving. Different suppliers and grades of leather make a huge difference in how the knife cuts and how it feels while working with it. Better quality leather is a pleasure to carve. Tandy has cheap leather, and some nice import leather. If you are dealing with Tandy, get the nice stuff. You will enjoy it so much more. Tom

Welcome. I've always wanted to build a saddle (used to have a horse from about 1961 to 1966 and he was the reason I took up leather work, was going to fix up an old broken-down saddle). Not likely to do it though now. Too many other things and not enough time. Great work you are doing. Keep it up. Tom

Leather as you well know doesn't melt. It has to burn, else will just shrivel up due to the heat. RavenAus is right about different power levels, speed, etc. affecting how clean the cut (burn) will be. Shielding gas to keep oxygen away will result in no cut, just a shrivelled line. Tom

Have you checked this thread? http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=14948 It might have something useful for you. Send him a request for the pattern. Tom

Laser only cuts by burning. No burn, no cut, just that simple. No other magic rays that cut. Tom

Do a test, see if warming up the leather melts the white residue. If it does, it is wax. Warming it up and buffing it will remove the excess wax. Do a search, there are other threads about wax rising to the surface. Tom

Take a look at http://www.rodnikkel.com/content/building-a-saddle-tree/ to see how a tree is built. Rod and Denise are members here. Tom

Here is the current link on eBay. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XBlack+240yd+Flat+Heavy+Duty+waxed+thread+for+leather+tent+fabric+hand+sewing+Ne&_nkw=Black+240yd+Flat+Heavy+Duty+waxed+thread+for+leather+tent+fabric+hand+sewing+New&_sacat=0&_from=R40 Tom

Sold http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=55937&hl=

Just add a post to the thread saying "sold" Tom Edit - I see it is locked so that would stop you adding a new post. Added sold to the thread for you.

Done a while ago this morning, now it is under Leatherworker.net → Fabrication → Leather Sewing Machines Left a link at its original location. Tom

There are several threads discussing reducing the noise level for apartment dwellers and for the rest of the family. Types of mallets, support for granite slabs, thickness of slabs, modifications to workbenches, etc. A search would be a good place to start. If you have trouble finding them, let me know. I'd do a search now, but have been at the computer too long and need to get to 'work' instead of play. Tom

Very nice job and pattern. I'm sort of partial to oak leaves! Tom

Great masks, even the face is great! Tom

Great idea, especially for the one-off jobs where you may never use it again. Tom

They don't erase for me either on the grain side. So on a prototype, I have a couple dots that I was using for alignment purposes that show. Not appreciated. Should have proved it on some scrap first! Tom

Since you backed off the bottom tension compared to what it was (when it was sewing okay before), I would return it to where it was before. There needs to be some tension on the bottom. But an easy pull without any binding as you pull the thread. Then increase the top tension gradually in steps (if the knot is not being pulled up into the leather) while you are testing it. Make sure the top thread is between the tension disks. The knot should be in the middle of the thickness of the leather. Generally, you should leave the bottom tension alone and adjust the top tension to move the knot into the middle of the leather. (Like all generalizations, when you make big changes to the material you are sewing, or sewing with, you may have to go back to the bobbin and adjust it.) So if the knot is on the bottom of the leather, increase the top tension. If the knot is on the top, then decrease the top tension. If the thread seems loose, not pulled firmly against the leather and the knot is where it should be, then both tensions need to be increased. For a needle/thread size chart take a look at http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html There are lots of threads posted here about setting your tension. It would be worthwhile to do a search for them are see what others experiences have been and learn form them too. Tom

Too little top tension is one of the most common causes of the birds nest under the backside of the leather. Make sure the thread is pulled into the tension discs. If that is okay, then increase the top tension in steps and test it. Go back to the thread that was first installed, or at least to the same size. Check the needle for damage or a bend. Tom

Put a piece of fibreglass mesh like used for drywall joints between the layers, or nylon web or such. There is a thread here about reinforcing dog collars that you could search for here. Has some good comments and remedies for straps that stretch. Tom

I have fewer problems with oxalic acid than with the volatile solvents used in cements, dyes and lacquer finishes. As with any chemical you use, read the warnings on the labels and check out the manufacturer's MSDS sheets. Most are available online. Oxalic acid does not need to be highly concentrated to do its job. Strength I use it at smells less than vinegar does. Tom I should add that the oxalic acid "dust" from the crystals would be quite dangerous rather than the weak fumes from the diluted acid. So be careful with the crystals, don't stir up a bunch of dust while measuring out what you need.

I have one, PM me. Tom

Great job! Well done. Tom

I see an error code 3 show up. For some servos, that is a motor overload. Have you tried hand wheeling the machine with no thread, no belt so you can feel whatever is catching? It could be a fault in the servo, but I really doubt it. To me it sounds like you have a mechanical problem. Tom Edit: Follow Wiz's advice to determine where the binding is happening.