Northmount

Use a wet tooth brush to clean out the welt. Use a wet sponge or rag to remove the salt. May need to go over them more than once to dissolve and remove the salt. Then use Aussie Leather Conditioner or Dubbin to work some oils back into the leather and to protect it. Warmth helps get the oil into the leather. Tom

Really great job! Tom

Did a search for woodgrain and found this http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=3087&hl=woodgrain#entry48095 The search tool on the upper right of the page can be your new best friend. Try it out. Tom

Welcome from another Calgarian. Tom

Have a look through this thread stitchless case Tom

Look on YouTube Follow the link, shows all his videos. Tom

Wet forming is the answer you are looking for TXAG. Tom

What machine to use is a very frequent question here. At the upper right of the page is a search box (and advanced search gear icon next to it), If you spend a little time searching the topic, you will find a wealth of information. You at least need a walking foot machine, preferably with a servo motor so you can control the speed. Then look at the total thickness you are intending to sew. Over 3/8" gets you into heavy stitchers. There are banner ads at the top of the page for various machine sellers that set their machines up to sew leather. Look at what they have to offer, and ask if they have used machines available. Buying a garment making industrial machine will not do what you want. Neither will home domestics. Save up for a machine that is really capable of the work you intend to do. It will save you money and frustration in the long run. Tom

A clutch motor will sew way too fast for what you want if you have never used one before. You have to be able to feather the clutch to make it go slow enough for most leather work you will do. When looking for a machine, get one with a servo motor (so you can sew slowly), set up for leather the thickness you need to sew and with the thread size you are going to use. There are tons of threads here about what to get for a leather sewing machine. Do some searches and lots of reading. Upholstery or garment sewing machines are not suitable for most leather work (except for thin stuff). There are ads by machine suppliers shown at the top of the page here. Look at what they have and are supplying. Some have used machines available if you ask. The control box may include a needle positioning system. Stops with needle up or down when you stop the machine. Looks like a bunch of other stuff in the control box too. Tom

Buckskin Leather Longview Leather Or phone the nearest Tandy. (in Montreal) They will take phone orders and ship. Tom

If you are on a tablet or phone, just copy and past. On a PC, use "more reply options" button. Tom

Start with white leather. No white dye, just paint, and it needs to go on in thin layers ... diluted. Tom

Great figure carving! Tom

Nice job. How long have you been doing this type of work? Your work looks very proficient. Tom

Hard ground, I think you should double bevel as previous posters. If it is in soft ground, some of the ground would be above the hoof, hiding part of the hoof, so would bevel the hoof to push it back. That's my thoughts, others may have a different interpretation. Tom

Pretty nice! How about a tutorial of how to make them? You are tempting me! Tom

I think your practice pieces are pretty great. Finger carving is very nice. I need to do some practice finger carving! Maybe takes more of an artist's eye than what I have. Tom

Interesting and very unique case. Great job. Tom

Tomorrow never comes! Better start today. Tom

The green is verdigis, a natural reaction. It requires moisture, so if you can keep the article dry, that will prevent its formation. However belts and such absorb moisture while being worn so is more prone to its formation. Coat the brass with a durable clear sealant, such as lacquer. And as Geneva says, seal the leather as it will help somewhat. Tom

Really nice spur straps! But those boots sure need some TLC! Tom

Look through the catalog at Ohio Travel Bag Tom

Use a good quality paint ... many are using Angelus and swear by it. Thin the paint first, to about 50%, build up in thin layers. THick layers will crack for sure. Tom

Or just ignore it and keep going. It will still look nice when completed. Makes it "unique". Tom

As previous posters, you need to sit down and try out the machine, start with the leather type and thickness it came set up to do. (The sample that came with the machine.) Make sure the machine is threaded correctly. There are videos on YouTube for various machines. Make sure the bobbin is in correctly. You shouldn't need to change any tension settings unless you have changed them already. If you have adjusted the tension, come back and ask some more questions, or do a search here for the same issues. To begin with, keep track of where the tension was set. Mark the knob, count the turns, etc. so you can go back to where you were. Use the same thread size, same needle size. Hold onto the threads for 2 or 3 stitches when you start a stitch. Practice following a line. Practice following a curve. Practice making right angle turns. If you lift the presser foot while making a turn, just barely ease it up so you can turn the leather. If you lift it too far, it releases the top tension and you will notice your stitch doesn't look right, or you get a birds nest under the leather. When making a sharp turn, wait until the needle has risen about 1/4" from the bottom before you make the turn. Turning too soon may reduce the loop so the hook misses it and you have a skipped stitch. There are also videos on practice work that I saw posted here a month or so ago. Have fun with your machine. It will do a great job for you. Tom Edit: There might be someone close by that can help you a little. Ask and see. And oil it up before you use it since it has been sitting so long.