mikesmith648

a 3/8" blade is good for general carving. the 1/4" for more detailed work and tight curves. thick or thin is more personal preference...the thin blade is generally for more detailed work although i use it for most of my work. You will be surprised at the ease of use with the BK knife for sure. I have 3 of them...........also just FYI.......theere is a thick and thin barrel......thin I use for detail and thick for general carving....but I have large hands.........smaller hands will be more comfortable with the smaller barrel JMHO Mike

I have an Osborne draw guage and a strap cutter....similar to the Tandy one but better! It is called "The Strap Cutter" ..........I prefer the wooden one to the meatl one and know a lot of crafters that prefer it over a draw guage also...

OK, Here is my 2 cents. RTC is an acrylic finish. Feibings is a non acrylic finish................ using one with the other will not work. I have a sheet I picked up from Tandy the other week that has a compatability list. I will try to get it out and post it in the next few days. My personal suggestion would be to use RTC and (shudder) Eco-Flo antique for better results. Another suggestion is that if it doesn't work on scrap......it won't work on the real piece. JMHO Mike

Cool..............wondering what it will look like tooled?? Thanks Chris

that one nail over there looks crooked!!!...........Just kidding bro.............AWESOME!!!

I really like it..........but I am not sure the chain is heavy enough...lol

Heck............it's only money..........too bad it doesn't have a steering wheel or a bathroom!!!

ok.........I will get back with you soon

Very nice rig..........but now you gotta turn in your man card...........lol

Welcome Sammi...........heck, some of the people in here that speak English can't speak it very well!!!

I might be interested.....what maker marks are on them? Mike also what SPI are they?

that stitch looks a little loose to me......but it can be done with practice

Pics would help

not too bad for a first attempt at Sheridan. Is that machine stitched?

I have developed a 12 step program for the tool junkie.....aka.....tool whore 1. get a box......or several as the case may be 2. go to your leather working area 3. take a seat.......this may take a while! 4. carefully pack ALL of your tools in the box / boxes 5. put my name and address on the box ....PM me for address!! 6. take the box to your nearest post office 7. apply proper postage to the box 8. give the box to the post office worker 9. get back in vehicle and drive home 10. turn on computer 11. delete all pertinent information regarding leather 12. grab a beer, sit in front of the TV Congratulations!!! your cured!!! If you have a relapse.........repeat steps over and over again until symptoms stop!! Hey, it works, so no complaining....LOL

I don't build saddles.......so I cannot answer number 1 question.....although I have thoughts on that one..... As far as number 2....that would be up to you and how you priced it......if you have some leeway then by all means use it.....but a good product and pricing system should be good enough. Unless you are desperate to sell, I would say that the price is not negotiable.JMHO

I would get them to lay it out on a tape measure and take a pic and send it........that way you have total length, hole placement and spacing, hardware placement, etc. Hope that makes sense......JMHO Mike

Nice bead work!!

that is a good machine and will do all you listed

Always keep your fingers"behind" the knife............otherwise it truly will be a "bloody mess" Ask me how I know!!!

I have a simple question.....................what's wrong with bailing wire??? Other than duct tape it is a real good tyer downer...........lol

.040" = .040 of an inch in diameter or 1.01mm hope that helps

nice item Tree Reaper.........tutorial time??

Welcome to the forum. I would ask what you mean by leather designer? I do not know of any licensure required in the US..........but I have been wrong before. Classes are offered by individuals........depending on what your goals are.

Roo is going to be the strongest. Next would be calf in strength. Lamb and deer are going to be too soft and stretchy unless it had a very strong core and did not depend on the leather for strength. Lamb and deer for a small dog might work but for a large dog I wouldn't depend on it. JMHO I am sure some "real braiders" will chime in too...... I am an admitted amature!!