jcuk

Nice piece of work there, and that's a nice piece of furniture its on. JCUK

Have a look here https://www.aacrack.co.uk/favourites/metallic.html https://www.identityleathercraft.com/index.php/the-leather-room/metallic-foils-patent-leathers.html Hope this helps JCUK

In no particular order at all. https://www.youtube.com/c/JHLeather/videos Look at her strap work. And how she uses the single head knife very good work, her sharpening methods may be easier for you too. https://www.youtube.com/c/UKSaddlerytrainingcoursesuk/videos No B/S here no pre planning just does it, its good to see that at times again watch how he uses a round knife and sharpen it, plus other tools too. Can say have seen him work excellent stuff. https://www.youtube.com/c/NigelArmitage/videos Some very good stuff here well explained too i think he has vimeo channel you can subscribe to, think some do here they can guide better on that. https://www.youtube.com/c/IanAtkinsonLeather/videos Some good stuff here too. Although not heavy strap work. https://www.youtube.com/c/LeathercraftMasterclass/videos Again some good things here too. All i believe have double stitching/saddle stitching tutorials if i can remember, its up to you which you prefer all very good though. And no i have not watched them all just the ones that interest me you are never to old to learn new things and techniques. Sorry they are from this side of the pond but the methods are pretty much the same, i sure their are some on here here that can help you leather carving and stamping i do not have any experience of that. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/27963-how-i-make-a-bridle/ Pretty much the same way i work only just seen this very good, yes about 8 hours for me too with a clear run at it frustrating when people see a bridle on certain web sites for £30/£40 you do the maths not even counting the materials not even the minimum wage here expecting you to charge the same, i can tell some repairs i have done on some said bridles replacing parts almost cost them them the same as there total price for there new cheaply (mmm hand stitched english bridle leather bridle). As for tools look closer to home assuming you are in the US https://www.csosborne.com https://weaverleathersupply.com https://brucejohnsonleather.com Others on here have brought from him and i would too if he was this side of the pond tools ready to go. Will say i am a big fan of older tools made to stand the test of time. sure there are more others may steer you right. Hope this helps JCUK

First of all can you double stitch/saddle stitch? if not you will need to learn this because certain pieces of tack for safety sake, a lot of tack needs to be double stitched. If you have a saddler or leather worker nearby see if they can help you with this yes youtube has some very good videos to learn from but on the other hand there are many that are not so good to say the least. If you want i will post some links to the ones that are good in my opinion. As a lot of saddlery work is heavy strap work a good place to start is to make a dog lead or two and then make a belt but stitch all the way round the belt to help you improve your stitching and your speed in doing this maybe again do a couple use bridle leather or harness leather it will get you use to stitching heavier leather doubled or tripled layers and yes not easy at first.When i finished my first piece of training they sold me all the tools i would need to make a bridle still have all 26 years later so i will recommend the same to you. 1. Single head knife or round knife big learning curve but worth it. Its the right tool for the job. 2. Edge shaves numbers 1 and 2 you can add more later i have, but to honest 1 and 2 are what i use most of the time. 3. Pricking irons (not stitching chisels these are not safe to use on saddlery to make or repair in my opinion) 5 spi up to 10 spi, 8/9 and 10 spi in sizes one '' and one and half '' 4.Single and double edge creasers. Added myself 5. A good ruler and set square also a good and true long length straight edge. 6. Wing dividers. Clicker awl. 7. John James blunt harness needles i use mainly use 003/004 and thread i use linen thread its traditional various sizes. 8. Almost forgot a couple of good saddlers awls and no they don't have to be ridiculously expensive because they have a fancy handle/haft. I have not paid more than £10 for one had them 25 years. Just got another two still under £10. To add later. You will need a good strap. cutter which i added later in the form of the wooden one cheap still use it now, also have a plough gauge can be expensive but again right tool for saddlery in the uk. 9. A pull through splitter can be expensive but great time saver. 10. Skirt shave/French edger careful big learning curve. If i have forgotten some i will let you know. If you can get some lessons from someone it will be a big plus you can't beat hands on tution. Also learn how to sharpen and maintain your tools very important. Hope this helps JCUK

Not US but UK https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUUjJibN4xw If interested, although not cheap, shipping maybe a cost issue too, i use some of their saddlery fitting and belt buckles they are nice. https://www.abbeyengland.com/buckles-fittings/buckles/bridle-headcollar-buckles.html https://www.abbeyengland.com/buckles-fittings/belt-buckles.html ignore their standard range and if interested email to check which buckles are made in their foundry. And i do use their standard range for repairs on things that were cheap in the first place not going to waste good hard ware on cheaply made items, and to be fair the standard range is not bad at all, just don't know where it has been sourced. Also have a look all and their buckles and hardware email them to satisfy yourself where they are being made. Also have a look at C.S. Osborne theirs tools are made in the US maybe theirs rivets and fitting are too. Hope this helps JCUK

Nice work, are you going to reverse the colour scheme? if so i think the blue edge would work better, still think it look ok as it is. Hope this helps JCUK

Here another one with good info https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XYT9Rc2YRAk JCUK

Any idea what size the thread is, i mainly use JJ 004 harness needles for light weight bridles i use 3/18 for heavier bridles 4/18 linen thread using 004 the other size harness needle i have is JJ OO3 which i use for 5/18 i always try to get away with the smallest size needle for the thread i can get away makes for easier stitching. Useful info here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mS8Vb6bkIjI Hope this helps JCUK

Agreed do not soak it for to long it will saturate the leather loosening the fibres, also heat the NFO UNTIL TEPID NOT TO HOT this will help it penetrate the fibres better. Maybe add a thin layer of leather on the flesh side to help strengthen the belt. Also feed the leather from time to time. Hope this helps JCUK

Hi I have been following this thread with interest. Why such a hard time if that is his process for working? I am old school with pencil and paper, but i have also recently downloaded some PDF templates for some items out of my comfort zone which were created with software. I can understand that some of the software is expensive but i am informed by my better half (who works in IT) that you don't have to use expensive Adobe software which is also not so easy to use. She says to look at Inscape https://inkcape.org which is free, and there is lots of help online with how to use it, and there are versions for all operating systems. Hope this helps JCUK

Not sure if this helps. JCUK

Sorry about that did not check where i got the quote from did not scroll up enough. JCUK

Try a single head knife a lot less daunting than a double head knife/round knife spend a day cutting shapes out of scrap leather also pratice skiving with it just remember to keep you're free hand behind the cutting edge, it is the right tool for the job. Be mindful of some of of the videos on youtube of people using a round knife, have to say some frighten me watching them. There is another knife that might be easier for you working with lighter weight of leather its called a clicker knife but it is a a pull cut type of knife. single head head knife https://www.georgebarnsleyandsons.co.uk/product-page/saddlers-head-knife clicker knife the curved blade, good for tight corners. https://www.georgebarnsleyandsons.co.uk/product-page/extension-clicker-handle Hope this helps JCUK

Wow you have a lot of Knives, some nice ones there, but a serious investment i think. I have 5 myself 2 round knives 1 single head knife a clicker knife and an English style skiving knife. Once you get the hang of using the round knife you will find its a good investment of time and money, i use mine for most things don't really use the others for to much at all unless i want to keep my eye i with the English skiving knife, by the way the single head knife will do everything a round knife will do, maybe a little more user friendly mine cost £13 a cracking knife. All the best JCUK

Try it through 3 layers of 4mm + then you will see. Yes you can do the 3 layers one layer at a time but on a bigger job very time consuming marking three layers to line up correctly, when you only need to do one layer if you can use awl. Oh my Awls all around a tenner each. JCUK

Glad hear your getting used to working with a awl, i brought some stitching chisels just to see what the fuss was they are ok but not for me, but can see the attraction to some who have been trying to learn to stitch with a awl from just watching Youtube videos, seeing peoples nice work posted here done with using said chisels looking for a easier method to achieve a better looking stitch i had the luxury of hands on teaching. The other thing you will find with using a awl is you get to feel the integrity of the leather you are working on very important for most of my work, saddlery would never advise anyone to use chisels for that kind of work and plus think chisels are ok for light to medium work not heavy work where safety is a issue. My awls are nothing fancy just good old working tools. JCUK

Yes everything must go, but does end on Sunday but it seems that Sunday never comes. JCUK

Maybe just a good strop and polish to to finish off. He says lifting a glass of wife sorry no cork where this wine came. JCUK

Glad to see its not just me that leaves the tip fairly pointed works for me too. And have say some things are being over thought at times or so it seems to me. Just learn to use and maintain your tools in a way that works for you if its seems to be working fine why change it. Yes i do know some people are new to this craft but before the age of the net that's what we had to do. A good book to have near your work bench, you may already have it if not its a good investment not just for beginners. https://tandyleather.world/collections/books-patterns/products/leathercraft-tools-book Hope this helps JCUK

Agreed Better to have that skill than not. A good way to learn to use an awl is to use your chisels on the top layer and practice to use the awl through the second layer of leather. And no that's not how i was taught i was taught how the double hand stitch/saddle stitch from scratch no chisels in them days. JCUK

Nothing, but once you learn how to use a awl you will know. JCUK

've been buying Doc Martens for 32 years It was not a rite of passage but it was a bit of a statement in Greece where i grew up. Just finished the look for all kids who wanted to be a little different. Competition is just better at the mo I do know that brand but they had to to be real thing there are lots of dare i say Air wear boots over here some others are a lot cheaper not all are not that bad at all the soles being impervious are also main factor in a stable block looking at tack that needs repairs. So now not just a fashion statement. The first three pairs i owned i never wore out just grew out of them. But time to get back on AWL MAKERS Cheers JCUK

Is this a new awl or one you have already been using, both my go to awls i have not sharpened in a long time no need to last time i had to resharpen one was when i dropped it had to re-profile the the blade about 20 years ago used a small diamond file and strop worked okay for me still does now. Have a newer one that i have had to work on to get it up to speed did the same but with a lot more stropping and polishing works good now don't need it now because both my main awls are fine but it there and ready just in case, nothing fancy cost around £10. Hope this helps JCUK

Look like you may have had Chinese made ones, your first pair of DMs over here was like a right of passage for a certain generation, graduated from monkey boots. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solovair JCUK

Yes agree too. One thing though Dr Martins boots shut down their operation in Northampton laying pretty much all of their work force i think, relocating the the manufacturing to China to cut costs and not passing any of the saving onto the customers - lost me as a customer there and then and as with Hunter wellies formally handmade in Scotland which too were now getting made in China the quality dipped. There are was a rush to get any old D M s that were made in the UK why because better made. So you know what happened the people at Dr Martin must have had had the bright idea to reopen some of there operation back in Northampton on a small scale calling them the originals yes they were more expensive but had no trouble getting plenty of customers so much so had to expand the operation back in the UK and up until the you know what came upon the world, they were still hiring people because of demand, people were choosing the original's over the Chinese made ones and yes i did get a pair myself. I am not saying this could reverse all this but if the product is good enough in the first place, loyal people will support you that's why i like what Vergez Blanchand, Osborne and now George Barnsley are trying to do despite cheaper imports and yes i know its not all cheap and badly made. JCUK