Constabulary

I guess it has the same hook as the 153 though I´m not sure. In case it has the same hook it most likely can handle 138. So I would go and test sew the machine. The seller should not have a problem with that. Needle system is 128x3 so a 22 needle should suit the 138 thread.

just found this: http://www.industrialsewmachine.com/webdoc1/used/used-brochures/47w66.htm

I think it is not as heavy as the 153. I would guess 5-6mm thickness. it is not a walking foot machine. It has a jump foot system if I remember correctly. These were mainly used as binding machines afaik and for lighter leather work I guess

No - they don´t pay me money - I just thought its a good opportunity if someone needs parts. Sometimes its worth using a google search or their site search as not all parts seem to be in the correct category. EXTRA 10% OFF All Sewing Machine Parts, Needles, Scissors and Accessories Code: BLACK10 Enter The Code During Check Out AVAILABLE UNTIL SUNDAY 27TH NOVEMBER 2016 AVAILABLE ON THE WEBSITE ONLY www.college-sewing.co.uk

The "felt" must have been of mixture of old compressed dirt oil and lint See above pictures of parts or check the parts list - there is no felt.

The 29K58 is very close to the later 29K71 and almost every parts for this machine is still available. But as Wiz said, this machine has its limitations. Though it is very versatile because of the narrow arm and 360° revolving foot it is still is a repair sewing machine for slow sewing operations and not really a machine meant for production quality leather goods. Be aware - the more worn these patcher machines are the shorter the stitch length is. Max. is 5 SPI but most used machines just do 6-7 SPI. Short stitches means some parts are worn and require replacement. Check SPI when stitch length adjuster is set to 5 SPI and make 10 Stitches / 11 holes on some cardboard and measure the distance between center of 1st and last hole and divide by 10 - that's how you find out the actual stitch length, When you want to sew more than 6mm and with thicker thread you should look for a walking foot / triple feed machine like Singer 111w155 or similar models. They can sew up to approx 8-10mm and are in approx the same price range.

Pretty obvious but for the records

I have two more, they come from vintage hooks. KAW = KOCHS ADLER WERKE (Nowadays Dürkopp-Adler) This one is from NÄHMATAG = Nähmaschinenteile AG (Radebeul, East Germany) or from 1953 onward NÄHMATAG Nähmaschinenteile GmbH, (Aachen, West Germany) Company no longer exists but at least on my side of the pond you find this mark them quite frequently on different sewing machine parts

different - compared with what? Please post some pictures,

depends on what needle system it is.

College Sewing https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/?s=135x16

You still can buy both types.

I meanwhile have a 45D and a couple of open and closed frame shuttles (different brands and condition, some orig Adler and some quality after market shuttles from NÄMATAG and so forth but not all have a brand stamp). Yet I have not tested them all but both types work in the machine. At the moment I THINK the open frame works better my 11/3 SYNTON thread and 10mm resin coated nylon webbing. But I have not used the machine very much so atm it´s just a "feeling". I just thought there's a reason why there are 2 different types of shuttles.... EDIT: Uwe, your Videos are always excellent - haven´t seen this one before but its great to see in slomo

Thanks Bob! My thought was just the opposite. The closed frame puts more dragon the thread (agree) but I thought thats better for thicker thread / thick materials. But maybe I´m wrong. So with other words closed frame for thread up to 138 / 207 and open frame for 207 and up?

I just have checked the last Jack Servo I bought from CS it has a 15mm shaft but that is the 750W w/o NPS, the other with NPS I bought has a 12mm shaft as well - don´t know why that is. Just wanted to have it mentioned.

I always wanted to ask this... What is the difference (beside the obvious) between an open frame and closed frame shuttle for the Singer 45K / Adler 4 & 5 and the like? I notice that the up to date 441 clones all have closed frame shuttles as it seems but even in old 45K parts list from the 1920´s or so they show open frame and closed frame shuttles for the same machine. I have a (very) rough idea but I´m not sure and wondering what the "old school" LW and dealers know about it.

To me it looks like a Singer 96K or the like thats what ISMACS say: 1300-1 Artisan "Dressmaker's machine" (sold in family shops). Lockstitch. Rotating hook, Drop feed; link take-up. Knee lifter. Gear driven. Max stitch 5 1/2 to the inch. For foot power only. For cloth; tailoring, etc. 16x251 1300-2 Artisan As 1300-1 but for motor table. Max speed 3000 RPM. 16x251

It´s probably the shuttle hook that is clicking inside the shuttle driver when oscillating? The shuttle hook has some play since the top thread has to go around the shuttle hook. Thats quite normal I´d say but if you are able to upload a youtube video that would probably help.

I´m 99% sure it has a magnetic controller. This one also starts at 200rpm you have noticed that, right?

I see no link but that does not work with servos from College Sewing as they have an magnetic accelerator unit.

My servos also run at 200rpm min and thats what the speed reducer is for - reducing speed!!!! RPM on the motor does not mean stitches per minute except you have a 1:1 ratio (75mm pulley on hand wheel and 75mm pulley on the motor). With a speed reducer with 1:3 ratio you reduce the speed by 2/3 and that would be 1.1 stitches per second. 200 rpm / stitches per minute : 3 = 66.666 rpm / spm : 60 sec. = 1.1111 stitch per second And when you add a smaller pulley to the motor its even slower. You don´t have to cut the table you can put the reducer under the table. But you have to reposition the motor. Again - check the forum for Speed Reducer - almost everybody is using them and there are dozens of different solutions - thats the way to go! This is how it looks on my table and and underneath.

Thanks again @dikman - I know but the few runs dried out quite well you barely can see them. Hammertone sometimes can be tricky. I cannot claim that my machines have a perfect paint job but I´m pleased and thats good enough for me - well, I have seen many worse @bikermutt - I yet have only hand cranked it as I have no V-belt atm Well, capacity depends. The foot lift with hand lever is 14-14.5mm. But you can tweak it a little bit when you raise the presser foot bar a little bit. But that depends on the presser foot you are using as you have to take care of that the needle holder is not hitting the presser foot when you have lifted the foot and spin the hand wheel. So with a bit good will you can probably get 1 or 2 more millimeters - but that does nor make sense anymore, I think. So 1/2" of thickness is the standard capacity I´d say but of course depends on how hard / dense the martial is you want to sew. EDIT: regarding tweaking - the max. is barely 17mm with a slightly shorter shank ADLER 5 presser foot (Singer 45K and Adler 5 feet are interchangeable but Adler feet as slightly shorter) and the foot is not touching the needle plate. Thats cheating (or tweaking) but that's how you can get the most out of it. If it makes sense is another story. So maybe you can sew 14-15mm this way - MAYBE! Some pictures

can´t help much but I´d compare the parts list of a 145 and 545 if the # are the same Haven't checked but I doubt they are the same. What is the Pffaf using I guess 134-35 / DPx35, right? No problem to switch to 135x16 needles you just have to raise the needle bar a tiny bit - not sure how much longer the 135x16 is but I´d guess 1 or 2mm EDIT: http://www.sewingneedles.org/leather-stitching-needles.html I also have set all my machines to 135x17 / 135x16 - no problems at all.

It most likely will not mess up the tension but you better find a new one it´s there for a reason. Check with TECHSEW or other dealers in your era they should be able to help. They should not cost more than 10 bucks. If you can´t get out the remains fo the old thread guide drill a new hole and put in a new thread guide. Some don´t require to tap a thread as they have a tapered end but you probably want to glue them in with Loctite or s/t similar. F.i.: http://www.ebay.com/sch/Crafts/14339/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=thread+guide+pin

A treadmill? Whats next - an electric lawnmower or an E-Bike? I absolutely agree with dikman. Tinkering is nice as long as it is much (much) cheaper and / or you get much more performance out of it but in general I´d (again) say an out the box servo + speed reducer is the best you can do. But thats entirely up to you. If you like tinkering start with making a speed reducer.