toxo

I've done a few Dieselpunk patterns and sometimes it's well worth making sure there isn't a better way to do something. For example, on the Monte Carlo pattern it calls for the bag bottom to be flush with the bottom with the return being inside the bag so to sew it you had to have one hand inside the bag and the other on the outside and it was a pig to sew and took ages. I worked out that if you inverted the bottom it did two things, firstly it meant you could sew it with both hands on the outside which saved at least an hour of sewing and secondly, it meant the bag sat on a rigid rim with the bottom off the ground. If this is not clear I'll try again.

Good job! If I can suggest a slight change. It looks like that centre line on the gusset is just a design feature. I think they always look better sewn inside out before the gusset is attached, it also gives the opportunity to insert a centre divider should you so wish.

I think you're over thinking this. Just go easy on the glue which will make it more rigid and use a longer stitch length. Easy enough to dry run with a couple of pieces of scrap.

Failing someone coming along with the proper answer, a simple pulley or sheave screwed under the table in line with the down bar of the knee lifter would do it. A cord going from the treadle, up to the pulley and across to the bottom of the down bar. If you get it right you may be able to cut the down bar short enough to avoid having to take it off to tilt the machine back.

No doubt someone will come along who knows your machine but you need to make sure that when the needle starts it's upstroke there's a loop and the hook holding the bobbin thread goes through that loop. If that's not happening you won't get a stitch. Could be it needs re timing, wrong needle size, check spring not letting off to allow the loop. Sorry, thought it was a first post. Should have read from the start .

If it's a standard old type table, The metal legs/framework is just underneath the table ends so you may not be able to cut it down.

Don't do holsters, (UK) but that is pretty and well done.

Two important things to remember, rule steel comes in two different heights and also different thicknesses. This is measured in points. 2 point is what you want unless you have really good bending machinery. 3 point is much harder to bend.

I'll always look for a cheaper/better way to solve a problem. I realised years ago that clicker dies would make the process much quicker but they've always been expensive. I worked out a way to do it that works. Not as robust as the welded steel ones but I reasoned that they were never get a tremendous amount of use. Having said that, they have been used many times and are still good. I like thinking of how much I've saved over the years. This pic should be self explanatory. The lighter coloured ones are bought obviously. If you do a search you should find one of my posts (to a Chuck question I think) where I provide links to all the bits you need. Don't forget that these were done in those days on a lowly arbor press which I also adapted to take stamps etc and even a hot foil block. (I won't be getting rid of my Lucris any time soon though) These were made using that set.

Before I got my 5 ton Lucris I cut all my clicker dies with a simple 1ton arbor press including handbag size panels. Just be ready to walk it around and don't expect to do it in on go..

Interesting idea. My first thought is to research hot foiling. Foil comes in many colours but I don't know if there are any with glue that will withstand rough useage. If using a heated stamp it should only stick in the lower bits.

https://youtube.com/shorts/uaZYioWcaXI

My property is about 120 inches.

That's not the half of it I have a video of everything I've asked for 10.5mm stitch, 3mm stitch, same hole backstitch, speed reducer, slow stitch, fast stitch, and more and pictures. I spoke to her every day on WhatsApp. If only I can figure out how to get the video sizes down I'll show you. I suppose I can put em on YOUTUBE and post the links. The only glitch was a vibration on the first video but because they were dismantling straight after they hadn't tightened the bolts. They did another after sorting the bolts and it was gone.

A little bit closer. If one of those Houthi missiles get it I won't be best pleased.

The holes don't need to be much smaller than the coin/stone. It's the stitching that's the key. If you get the stitches really close the coin/stone can't move.

The bane of modern "society" lawyers and insurance.

is there any special reason for using chrome tan? it'll stand by itself quite happily if you used slightly thicker veg tan.

Thanks Fred. Ebay is usually my go to first. I almost pulled the trigger on the MOQ 1000 for each colour bullshit. Was about to spend serious money on rivets for Christs sake.

Does anyone know who does short shank rivets in the UK? I'm looking for say a 9mm rivet with a 5/6mm shank. Normally a 9mm rivet will have a 9mm shank which falls over when joining a couple of 2.5/3mm pieces of leather.

No offense taken I assure you SUP. It wasn't supposed to be "this one is better". It was merely to point out different ways of doing it. And if it's "Unique" you're looking for, there are literally 1,000s of em out there.

Thanks Northmount. I like to think I'm fairly computer savvy but clearly sometimes, not so much.

This looks like a decent piece of kit with a new motor. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2174209189594988/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_general&referral_story_type=general&tracking=%7B%22qid%22%3A%22-2665679626282924949%22%2C%22mf_story_key%22%3A%22476420748350051124%22%2C%22commerce_rank_obj%22%3A%22%7B%5C%22target_id%5C%22%3A476420748350051124%2C%5C%22target_type%5C%22%3A6%2C%5C%22primary_position%5C%22%3A2%2C%5C%22ranking_signature%5C%22%3A2653378306098869906%2C%5C%22commerce_channel%5C%22%3A501%2C%5C%22value%5C%22%3A0.00041691024053059%2C%5C%22upsell_type%5C%22%3A102%2C%5C%22candidate_retrieval_source_map%5C%22%3A%7B%5C%226847975665313641%5C%22%3A3001%2C%5C%227291995500838592%5C%22%3A3528%2C%5C%226956754761083754%5C%22%3A701%2C%5C%226973991542655164%5C%22%3A701%2C%5C%2224369302629327688%5C%22%3A701%2C%5C%2224347697581488237%5C%22%3A701%7D%2C%5C%22grouping_info%5C%22%3Anull%7D%22%2C%22lightning_feed_qid%22%3A%22-2665679901058509167%22%2C%22lightning_feed_ranking_signature%22%3A%222653378306098869906%22%2C%22ftmd_400706%22%3A%22111112l%22%7D

I like this kind of patchwork bag that lends itself to the scrap pile but it highlights the limitations re what options there are to build them. In this example the patches are obviously butted together and top stitched to some kind of backing. The type of backing will determine whether any gaps open up down the line. This kind of look can also be achieved with a zig zag stitch. I also like the type where each layer overlaps the the layer before and top stitched through two or more lasers. This can be interesting but obviously leads to double thickness in places and raw edges. I actually favour using the "French seam" where only the first of three stitches is effective unless the two top stitches go through a backing tape or a liner. This one uses a turned and stitched through the seam allowance, probably with a glued lining for support. If anyone wants inspiration for a patchwork bag. Just put that into Etsy UK. Lots of fantastic ideas in there.

Thanks for the heads up re the sump. Don't know why the Juki 1341 doesn't have the hump jumper. Maybe the clones have a higher lift for thicker material?